MiNi Beast

I believe the output shaft has different count splines. but thinks it's possible to swap the shafts out. The ax 15 has a 23 count spline. so tcase has to able to accept that. Maybe understand?

yeah but like you said holes are close but not quite there. Thought maybe drilling out holes to be bigger then putting bolts and bigger washer on the fanise it to the frame. But if you see in pic the crossmember is still in ax-15 position so it will fit. Cause if I move crossmember forward to front holes the mount won't line up. See if I had a pic of one that's correct I could firure it out.

nope not yet :mad:

Any help? bump

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8705970@N0 ... 177595283/ Alright try this.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=61112 try this for NOW UNTILL get pic up

Sweet man. Glad to see you got it out. IT looks nice, and i love the truck bed and rockers with the bed liner. Like your rear bumber too have to get you to make me one of those. :brows:

Yeah that is what I was going to do, but since I got a pic thought I whould see if anyone could tell me what was wrong. Then I could be it in the right way.

Tranny is mated with original tc never divorced. The cross member can be moved forward but the problem is the attachment part to the tranny that is messed up and don,t line up with the bolt holes. As you can see in pic.

Here's a pic of the situation, anybody got something for me? http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... ID=2931391

No sway bar man. Mines DD and ride the highway, not a problem. Had few close calls in almost hitting someone, missed stop sign at 4 way, But downshifted and jerked right around them. honestly felt it reacted better in fast turning. But still say when center of gravity is off going around curve don't get testy. But once your used to it, it's all good. And you don't have to worry about the woman trying to drive it either, my girl gets scared $#!&-less just going down the the driveway.

I had same problem but switch out all wiring. The dash wiring and cab wiring all the way back to taillights. Under the dash I jumped the fuel pump to the ignation, so fuel pump comes on with the key on. Then the starter I ran to toggle switch. So everything works like noral but starts on toggle switch, like a push botton start conversion. Found that it dosen't take as long to start like the 4.0 seemily is. Just idea.

I was wondering if you were redoing it from the pics but sorry thats all i got on the roll pan. Good luck if still searching.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... t=roll+pan or http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... t=roll+pan

ok yeah I know what your talking about now, let me see if I can find it. :redX:

http://www.tntcustoms.com/webv5/xjarmor.asp Maybe this your talking about?

I'm in a hat and cozie, white hat if possible with black stich. It'll match truck. :beerhead:

How much space do you need? How wide of tires you running? The 8.8 is only a inch smaller than the d35 so 7/8" spacers whould be sufficent and put you back to like stock. Then you whould rely on your rims backspacing for tires as wide as '12.50'. Also make sure you can get mounting nuts for the spacers and then you will have to grind off the studs to the spacer so flat.

I would like to know about the lights too. I've been running a toggle switch for my head lights. I got all the same syptoms and itm sucks. Been tryin to figure it out. Was your light switch good before? Mine Was always like that once I got truck. Easier to figure out problem if everything worked correctly before.

That was awesome man. Long it was but intrigue kept thinking it was a cat chasing mouse. It was saved to my computer.

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/ Just thought this was good diagram for those do-it-yourselfers that want to eliamate the vacum part unless already broke, like mine did. I just made mine a perm lok instead not to worried bout wear and tear untill I UPGRADE then will do this setup with the cable.

Going to look into that, Just had it come out again on me after put on another stock yoke and u joint, So going to possibly retube it if find a place local, Should I get a YJ yoke though for the better angle at the joint?

About how much to retube my drive shaft?

:headpop: Well went out wheelin today and 10 min into play time drive shaft pulled out the t-case and kinked up and broke the slip yoke. good time tough. Well figured it would happen with putting the puke back in, but thats how it goes. But my question is... I have a spring over in the rear, so naturaly the driveshaft is not long like stock, so was wondering if I did a 1" t-case drop and got the rubicon slip yoke sleeve, http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Products. ... C882539327 if this whould pretty much put me back at like stock? Figuring the length of an AX-15/231 set up cause thats what I'll be running. The puke is only temp for the ax-15 rebuild. :driving: So let me know what you think.

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/ ... /1700.html This is not the tranny mount I have but need. Thought I'd paste if anyone may need new mount.