Pete M

make sure its a 97+ 8.25 so you get the stronger axle shafts.

the flashers and turn indicators run through separate flasher units. swap them with each other and see what happens. :thumbsup:

the liquid inside the vines is also toxic. do NOT be near them if you burn them. :ack:

poison ivy vines:

were there any fuzzy-looking vines climbing the trees? bunch of those around my parents' place. the anti-poison ivy creams are supposed to work best. and jim beat me to the punchline. Jack works wonders if taken internally. :yes:

if a 4.0, you can bleed that last bit out with this technique: -put on your safety glasses -park it downhill (or with the back tires on ramps or a curb or whatever) -let it cool completely -carefully unscrew the temp sensor located at the top/back of the head (just enough to let air escape but not enough to remove it -have someone (not you, so they can quickly kill the engine if a geyser erupts) start up the truck -bleed the air out until there's no more air, add fluid as needed

what you need in the front in order to match a spring-over conversion sepends on the perches you use and the condition of your leafs. if your leafs are saggy a bit, you will get 5-6 inches over your current height, but may only need a 4.5 in the front to balance it out. there are no guarantees when mixing and matching used or new springs. 2wd packs sit about an inch lower than 4wd packs, all other things being equal. other vehicles with less arch in the leafs can be mix and matched. just be sure to retain your main leafs so the tire is properly centered in the wheel arch and the front and rear bolts fit tight.

do the front blinkers work?

flip down cupholder?

they can have weird and unsafe handling characteristics on the road. also, I can't really see how they are necessary. how much flex do you need?

I don't see that. :dunno:

sounds like a project to me. :D

yup. that is certainly possible with aftermarket rims.

all I can add is: don't buy from the rust belt.

yeah, no kidding. that's just... well... wrong. :dunno:

just the lowers. the WJ arms have a bend in them to clear the tires and only need minor mods to install. MT or AT is entirely a preferential thing. all my Jeeps have a manual trans.

I have no contact between the t-case and body on my truck. other people have had some that was cured with a big hammer. it's possible they tried to use the peugeot crossmember.

the 6spd trans is not an AX-15, but would still bolt up (assuming you could ever find one). The TJ/YJ unit is slightly different, but it still works. I have one in my 88. If you found one, you'll still need to track down an XJ/MJ shifter (the wrangler one is taller, but still works) and the XJ/MJ trans mount and crossmember (very different in a wrangler). It will clock (rotate) the t-case up a bit, but that's pretty easy to overcome and will give you better ground clearance under the t-case.

you still might have some minor rubbing on the control arms (with stock rims) or fenders (aftermarket rims) when the steering is at full lock. WJ arms can cure the former. Trimming the later. or you can ignore it. :D

you can neaten up the engine a lot by swapping to the late model open cooling system, removing the valve to the heater core, and rerouting the vacuum lines.

and don't forget to search for YJs, TJs, XJs of various years 89-06. minor differences over the year can result in cutoffs in searches. (and that applies to all parts searches, not just the AX-15. it's important to know what you're looking for before hitting car-part.com)

interesting. what rims? where was the contact?

it's always like that in Colorado. well, not always. it's either blue sky, or it's a blizzard.

goes right in if rust doesn't get in your way. you will need a different pilot bearing/bushing, and the new crossmember goes in a different spot, but I'm told there are holes there already. the Ax-15 is the same length as the peugeot, so your driveshafts will still work as they do now.

the mini sunroofs were designed for the back of vans. called "mini vents" or something like that. and the gap at the top of the ceiling is filled with the 1" foam I attached to the steel. that, plus the sunroofs were about an inch thick meant that everything almost looks like it was designed to be that way.