Pete M

not a sticker

I can find you an original they are about 10" long and cut from white vinyl. I assume you'd like 1 of each? message me an address.

simplifying everything. if you would still like one of the old decals I can see if I have any remaining, but I've found these new stickers to be durable and they are way more colorful plus each is a tribute to a former CC member. I've got Cruiser54 and Hornbrod on hand with a couple more that I'm working on. $5 each. paypal is preferred via the CC account (ComancheClub@hotmail.com), but I can accept through other methods too. If you would like to donate more to help cover our monthly bill, that's cool too.

I go to forums and facebook groups for questions. the only place to even hope to get answers anymore is from actual owners.

It would appear I pulled the sticker thread so I could start a fresh one... and then forgot to actually start that new one. I'll do that later today

I understand the feeling. My PT cruiser was my grandfathers. It's hard not to see all my mods through his eyes. I know he wouldn't have done them himself (he was never really handy) but I'd wager he'd be smiling seeing me enjoying his baby

I'm a huge proponent of keeping the trucks on the road, but man, that's going to be some seriously invasive surgery. I'm wondering how far the rot goes.

I think the key is keeping the cowl free from debris inside.

moved to Tech so more eyes will see it

I think you're worrying about something that is working perfectly. because it's all the same giant blob of a heat sink, the ambient oil temp should be roughly what the engine temp is and last I checked my 4.0s run at 210.

I assure you that the oil inside the cylinders is a LOT warmer than 210.

what temperature is it supposed to be at? no sense in adding a cooler if it's unnecessary.

looking for something clean and rust free. needs 3.55s, non-CAD, HP, and preferably not needing any bearing work. have a set of 4.10 axles if someone is looking for an upgrade.

old school!!!

space. they were 6x9s in small boxes rather than in the wall were the factory units are. they sounded fine and added bass... until the little 8"sub was turned on. then they were just drowned out. In my Liberty I use the rear channels out of the '92 radio to feed signal to the amp for the subwoofer and couldn't even tell the factory rear door speakers were disconnected.

I used to have 4 speakers and a small sub (2 separate amps) but eventually got rid of the rear speakers and couldn't really tell the difference.

wrestled the pedals off and the firewall looks to be solid. yay! but the clutch master looks... problematic.

I used a universal on that truck, but for this next truck I'm getting a sized unit. I think it's 1 1/4"? be sure to get one that is a "make your own hole" so it's a snug fit around the cable.

turns out I do not. I took a hundred pics as I did that project, but that was not one of them

I bought a generic grommet fit very snug

I've probably mentioned it before, but I'll say it again just in case... it is immensely important that you be sure that all water intrusion has been dealt with. especially the sneaky ones like the antenna grommet.

only enough to get it to stay put while I wrestled with the carpet (new carpet so there was a LOT of wrestling to be done )

you can do it anyway you like. little gaps won't matter and the ugliness will all be hidden for breanne's truck I cut the insulation into shapes that fit on the floorboards directly, aka avoiding putting it on top the frame cap and braces. the key is that the carpet lays proper on top and the various seat bolts and seatbelt bolts are accessible.

he hasn't been on in a hot minute, but we can try @WahooSteeler and see if he gets the email facebook marketplace is the place to look for another truck. beer fridge broke, but there's a cooler of cold ones by the garage we'll get a kegerator installed soon