Pete M

As promised, I've figured out how to do colors. The first time it was really difficult, but after all the interior areas were completely monotone, it's pretty simple to change them. I apologize for the "fuzziness" of the images. It happens when I save them as Jpegs. The Bitmaps are much sharper but the file size is enormous and I'd fill up my picturetrail site in a hurry with so many. Factory vinyl graphics are going to be tricky. :( Jeep on! --Pete Here's one in brown: Here's one in red: Here's one with matching flares: And a two tone: And an army green MJ:

Colors will come later when I have more time. Turns out it's harder than I thought. But I whipped up a couple with tread. Jeep on! --Pete

Hmmm, does that $35 include new control arms? :roll: Jeep on! --Pete

Got it for $20 from the j-yard and the rear window hinge is broken. But since I own cap, I thought I'd join in. :D Jeep on! --Pete

car-part.com might help finding a new block. I've heard that the newer 2.5Ls are a good upgrade. Jeep on! --Pete

All the numbers were from my 88 dealership brochure. I've never been able to figure out why the GVWR in my 86 brochure shows as slightly higher than in 88, but the payload rating was actually less (1200 compared to 1475). I gotta imagine that you merely need to be in the ballpark. Metric tonne lb 2x4 curb weight: 2959; GVWR: 5165 Metric tonne lb 4x4 curb weight: 3141; GVWR: 5347 GVWR from my 86 brochure (all longbeds of course), no curb weight given: 2x4: 4554 4x4: 4779 Metric tonne 2x4: 5208 Metric tonne 4x4: 5375 Oh, and every single number is for a 2.5L engine. Jeep on! --Pete

4x2 sb curb weight: 2912, GVWR: 4387 4x4 sb curb weight: 3076, GVWR: 4551 4x2 lb curb weight: 2959, GVWR: 4434 4x4 lb curb weight: 3141, GVWR: 4616 Jeep on! --Pete

Not a clue what font it is. I can't even find it again in Paint or Word. :( So I redid it with new fonts. Squared font: Less formal font: Same font but different location:

Unfortunately the fine lines won't replicate well on a sticker. I've been working on one with thicker lines. Jeep on! --Pete

The Dana 35 is considered weak because it is a light-duty axle that was never intended to handle larger than stock tires. There's no way to strengthen it without a ton of money because there are so many weak points. The axle shafts are weak, the gears are weak, the carrier is weak, the tubes are weak, etc. You can spend a LOT of money and still not get close to the strength of a Ford 8.8 Jeep on! --Pete

When you get to gearing and lockers, I can't advise sinking any money into the Dana 35. Grab an MJ/XJ Dana 44 or Ford 8.8 and put your money into something strong. Jeep on! --Pete

The LTBs are a big 31. I would go straight to a full 3" lift with an adjustible trackbar, but that's just me. Or at least a long 3" AAL for the rear, because they are pretty cheap. Keep in mind that an XJ lift-shackle won't lift an MJ quite as high because MJs have longer shackles to begin with. Also, make sure the shackle is a 2" lift shackle as opposed to a shackle that's 2" longer than stock, because that would only lift your truck 1". Jeep on! --Pete

Technically you don't need a lift to fit most brands of 31" tires. But to answer your question, yes 2.5" is most likely too much lift in the front if you don't do anything to the rear. All depends on how sagging your springs are. Don't forget that an alignment is needed if you lift the front end at all. Jeep on! --Pete Stock 90 4x4 with 31" tires:

21 here too. Weird. :shock: Jeep on! --Pete

All Comanche, all the time!! There's no such thing as "bothering" us. 8) Careful though, they can be addictive. I've got 3 currently, but my first is still my favorite. :D Jeep on! --Pete

Here's the biggest one I have. Unfortunately the quality sucks. One of these days I'm going to re-do it with better software. Jeep on! --Pete

Oh, I forgot to mention that my leafs sit on the overloads ALL the time. 2wd leafs don't have as much arch as 4wds and my truck isn't exactly a light-weight anymore. :D Jeep on! --Pete

You can certainly try it if you'd like, but I;ve always figured my truck still has more upward flex to give and wouldn't see any benefit until I get really crazy with the wheel travel. Although... I plan to rebuild my packs this summer (using some rust-free leafs I bought while I was in Florida) and maybe I could play around with them to see what actually happens. Hmmm.... Jeep on! --Pete

Just for some clarification, when everyone says "brackets", do they mean the adapters between the floor brackets and the seat, or the entire sub-seat unit? Jeep on! --Pete

And I had to extend the bumpstops to keep the tires out of the fenders and the shocks from collapsing. Not only did I keep the overloads (which go a long way toward reducing springwrap), I also have the extra main leaf in there. In my opinion, the reasons to keep them far out-weigh any reasons to remove them. Jeep on! --Pete

approximately 7ft. Jeep on! --Pete

Nope. Long bed 4wds can have them too. I think it was Jeep's bright idea for the longer driveshafts to help reduce vibrations. Although not all longbeds seem to have the tube-in-a-tube style. Jeep on! --Pete

I was thinking it was WJs, but regardless, the pull-your-part by me rarely has Grands in it. I'll most certainly keep my eyes open for them now though. Jeep on! --Pete Oh, that's your solution to everything! :D

Well, not totally crazy just yet. But we were trying to figure out which MJs got the tube-in-a-tube rear driveshaft and which got the single tube style. We didn't measure anything unfortunately. Jeep on! --Pete

My plan for my newest MJ (stock 4x4 sporting 31s) is to add a second MJ main leaf to my packs (cut the eyes off and stick it underneath the current main). That should bump it by like an inch and then I'll just add a poly spacer to the front to match. Be advised that this may not solve your rubbing problem if the tire is rubbing on the control arm. A simple way to cure that is to unscrew the steering stops and add a washer behind them. Jeep on! --Pete