Pete M

Good ol' Jeep. Always necessitating a clause or two. :D

I thought it was AX-5s that had the short and long issue. I don't remember hearing that about the AX-15. :hmm:

As hunter said, yes and no. An AX-15 from a TJ/YJ will bolt to the engine, but there are some differences in the back half of the transmission. I have a TJ trans in mine and had to create the transfercase shifter bracket side that bolts to the trans. Plus the tranny mount is different and the TJ/YJ trans will clock or rotate the t-case up a bit. It mean better ground clearance, but can interfere with the floor of the truck depending on how you work out the tranny mount and xcrossmember. Then there's the issue with amost all AX-15s, spline count. Early AX-15s may have the 21 spline shaft to match your t-case, but for sure 91+ will have a 23 spline. 94.5+ will have the external slave. I simply joined my current master line to the new slave line using a $2 compression fitting from the hardware store. Oh, and the Peugeot does NOT share bellhousing with the AX-15, so you'll need to get that with the trans. Some good info here if you haven't read it already: http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/ax15swap.html

I promise you'll never need a drop pitman arm. An AAL has more curve than the stock packs and forces the leaf pack to arch upward. An extra main leaf will have the same arch as the leaf pack and merely adds carrying capacity, which in turn will probably lift about an inch. Personally, I would go with just the ZJ coils and 4wd leafpacks (with the extra main leaf). You'll gain a couple inches over your current height and be able to fit 31s. Be aware that lifting can bring about the death wobble. Have funds available.

Adding lift is messing with the front geometry. Do you mean you don't want to fix the front geometry that you'll be screwing up with the lift? :hmm:

As much as we may want to think it was the same, it is Ford we're talking about here. The manufacturer who changes stuff just for the hell of it. After all, the Rangers came with wussier axles, and they're trucks! Only one way to know for sure.

:needpics:

Swap in some axle shafts with 297s, truss the Dana 30, keep it open diff and don't be too abusive. Maybe some alloy axleshafts with CTMs if you can afford it. There really isn't any front axle with a 5-on4.5" bolt pattern that's better than the Dana 30 (unless you buy a complete aftermarket axle). The 8.8 is out of an Explorer, yes? http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm

:bowdown: How's the cooling?

The majority of the recent requests went out last week. I've got a couple stragglers left that will go out today after I prep some more 12" decals and acquire some more shipping tube.

Sounds like a great opportunity to go to a solid shaft and 297s. :brows:

:bowdown: Sweet! Monkey bars! The neighborhood kids'll love it! Wait, how do I open the box? :hmm:

The stock lights are not only French pieces of crap that use funky bulbs and put out pathetic amounts of light even when new, they are mounted in an awful location. I bought a generic household "tap light" that's battery operated and has a halogen light in it and mounted it in the center of the roof. Very bright! I can actually read maps and such. :D

Needs more triangulation...

All my pics are here: http://www.picturetrail.com/petermontie The rollbar should be in the "protection" folder. Or swing by the house sometime. You're only an hour and a half away. :D Buuuuuuut, since I love posting pics, P.S. Junk!?!?! That there is a big pile of semi-organized, maybe-possibly-useful tools, spare parts and other assorted odds-and-ends. Ok, so maybe it is junk to some, but we'll see when you're down for the count on the trail... :D

I knew the 2wd and 4wd rotors were different, but maybe there was a change, like in 91 or something like that?

At the fisrt opportunity I was dropping my truck on rocks and roots or whatever I can find that reaches. :D This is not a recommended testing procedure if your rails are more show than go. 3/16" wall 2x2" square, .120 wall 2" DOM tube. Plus the round tube goes through the frame and welded to plates on both sides. :D

What year is the donor axle?

There's a pull-your-part in Flint!! No way!!! :eek:

I woulld stay far, far away from that kit. Anything above 3 inches of lift and you MUST do something about the control arms. And I would still recommend lowers for 3".

I left it that way so people having difficulties due to forum glitches can still comunicate their problems. At least that was the rationale. Not sure if it really helps any. :(

Folding pickers ROCK!!!! Got a Harbor freight special in my garage and I can't imagine life without it.

Be sure to top off the oil in the trans. :wrench: :needpics:

It's been done before. Severe driveline bind (big tires equals more bind). Age can be a factor. As can any impacts with a rock/log or if a driveshaft is too long. Nothing is invincible. :D

And I'm not done yet either. Be aware that Marshalls adds a $25 core charge to the cost of their axles and for my money (and it has been my money:brows:), I would go to Deer Creek Auto parts. Their "truck" junkyard location is just north of Circleville. 1-800-533-3740. Last time I was there I talked them down to $125 pretty easy. But then, I did buy more than just the one axle. :D Either way you'll have your choice of axles. Make sure you get one with all good brakes and make sure they pop the diff cover for you. Oh, and Deer Creek removes their axles as soon as the truck comes in so you get what's there, while with Marshals, there's a chance you can sweet-talk them into keeping things like brake lines and E-brake cables intact. But then, Marshal's yard is just a bunch of mud and dirt, while Deer Creek has a nice flat gravel parking lot where you can go out and see your potential axles without crawling in the weeds. Both yards won't let you in the back without an escort.