Pete M

A 95 Dakota rear line is much longer than stock MJ.

Not long enough as-is. But you could buy one and get it re-tubed.

YJ front lines are longer than MJ/XJ lines. Between them and lowering the stock hardlines, you should be good. Even with 4.5" coils I'd want longer lower control arms.

The guy in that one writeup says he used a bushing from a 73 with the 304. http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/ax15swap.html

Bronze pilot bushing from an 80s era CJ. I forget which engine, but it's a $2 part. The other option was like $10 bucks or something like that.

Man, if I had his number he'd have put me on call-block by now. Maybe I'll have to get one of those "Fire Millen" t-shirts. :D

I've got Jason Hanson. You're all going down. :D As a Detroiter, I know how often the Lions fail to score touchdowns. :roll:

If you buy cans, buy one of these too.

Totally expected if you had a non-turbo engine. They just can't produce any horsepower. I'm leaning on my experience with the turbo diesel in my Libby and it was never lacking for sustaining power when towing the MJ, only stability (plus it never got old at traffic lights, when everyone and their uncle would pile in to the lane next to me thinking that I'd be the slow one and then I'd rocket off and leave them in my smoke). But it's a decade newer than the 6.5 in a 'Burb. But then it's also less than half the displacement. Seems I may have to take some test drives when the time comes. :D

I don't like to go fast while towing 4500 pounds (in a lot of places I'm limited by law to big truck speeds anyway), but I need it to be more stable than the Liberty. If I go 'Burb, I think I'll look for the 4.10 gears.

I didn't say "no Fords", I said "no Ford 6.0s". That engine has had way too many issues and I'd rather just avoid it. Especially since if I was going ford I could just as easily get the 7.3L.

Ah man. Soooo many players I've never heard of. But I guess I should at least be familiar with my own team, right? :roll:

Converting a system from R-12 to R-134 is pretty easy so don't let that be the reason for passing up on an otherwise good deal.

Yes it will work with some minor mods TJs had the AX-15 through 99. After that they had the NV-3550 (or the 3500, one of those) which is an even stronger trans if you can find it. You'll need these parts from an MJ/XJ: -t-case shifter linkage, -trans mount -trans shifter handle, And the t-case will be clocked (rotated) slightly higher than an MJ/XJ so there's a chance of minor clearance issues with the floor pan. Oh and yes, it'll be an internal slave.

Them thar's some big tires. :D

Yes and no. Not with Jeep parts. But if you can find a bellhousing from a Dakota that had an AX-15 behind the 4-banger, you could.

Any 5 speed found behind the 2.5L will work. :D

Isn't there a ground up under the dash?

Yeah, but I'd have to sell a kidney to fill them up. Near me? Chances are slim. I'd rather not buy anything from the rust belt again. I'll add in a flight and fuel to get home (from Colorado or Florida or somewhere rust-free) into the price.

Keep the change. :D

I've noticed several ads for the big fords and burbans advertising a new trans installed.

SOA = Spring Over Axle (leafs mounted on top of the axle) SUA = Spring Under Axle (leafs mounted underneath the axle)

Then what's the computer and harness for?

Are you contemplating an auto? Or a swap to a newer year engine?

Huh? A manual tranny is a manual tranny. No computers involved with our Jeeps. I think the only wiring I did was to splice the backup lights into the new transmission's switch.