Pete M

I would try swapping in the XJ prop valve up front. I believe the rears have a restrictor that reduces the power to them.

From the 88 brochure. The offroad package comes with: gas shocks, 225 tires, steel rims, full spare tire, skid plates, and tow hooks.

Ok, so when the fronts fail, and the bypass is engaged, but it does not close off the primary. Yes?

According to the brochures, the Offroad packages didn't come with the 44. That came with Big Tons and Towing prep packages. And yes, 2205 pounds is the payload.

Good to know. I didn't realize that. :cheers:

Hmmm. So what would happen in my 88 if the front brakes failed. I've eliminated the rear valve and plugged the bypass up front. Would the rear brakes still work if there was a problem with the fronts? Or would all the pressure be forced to the plugged port?

Now, I didn't buy the thing in 86, but it wasn't there when I got the truck in 98. It was a farm truck though, maybe it broke off. :dunno:

Not every Big Ton/Metric Tonne MJ has it. (my 86 doesn't) Some of them have only a sticker in the back window. Although we can't be sure that wasn't a dealer thing.

You've got some competition out in the MJ world. Some better built than others though. Yours certainly seems well built. :thumbsup: If I remember right, this one popped up on ebay and was sporting the stock axles or something crazy like that. And these guys just bolted their trucks to another ones frame

Don't know the difference. I sprayed with the gun that was given to me with the product. I'll snap a pic of it in a minute.

That pic is of my setup and I did it like that back in '02 out of ignorance. I mistakenly thought that one line was a "return" and so plugged it when I deleted the prop valve. Oh, and PMs are up and running gain. :cheers:

Anythings possible I guess. But it was never an official offering.

I highly recommend buying your hydraulic clutch components from your local Jeep dealership. Especially with the slave cylinder. Don't go cheap on it or you may have to replace it again in short order. Plenty owners have. :( It's totally worth the extra cost up front to not have to drop the trans again. :thumbsup: Send a PM to BLHTAZ as he works at a dealership and may be able to get your parts a bit cheaper.

Clean up? Yeah right. I don't seem to have anything that can dissolve it so I blew out what I could and just let it sit. I got 2 guns with the paint so it's not like I used my own stuff. As to price, well, I sorta traded with a guy that works in a paint shop located in a community college (they make the paint there as well as spray it). The axle he got cost me maybe $90 plus $10 in gas to get up to his place. I just searched online and it runs about $110 per gallon. But with all the complications I've gone through and the fact that I don't yet know if the dang stuff will stay adhered to my truck, I'm not certain if I got a deal or not. :( If it all starts to peal off, then I might regret the whole thing. Jeepco, I'm not doing anything with them until I'm certain it's still usable. No one else need suffer with this crap. :headpop:

If you're looking for a project, a good combo is the Grand Wagoneer front axle and the 94-95 Isuzu Rodeo/Honda Passport Dana 44 rear axle. Same widths, same 6 bolt rim patterns, and the Isuzu rear can be found with disk brakes and 4.10 or 4.30 gear ratios (the V6 had the disk brakes).

If it's supposed to be for a Metric Ton, then it won't be a shortbox. As far as I can tell, those 2 things were never offered together from the factory. But regardless of that, the 4.0/AW-4/D-44 was available together (tow prep package) and I'm guessing it would be the shortest driveshaft ever in an MJ since, as mentioned above, the individual parts involved are the longest..

Explorer 8.8 :brows:

Lots o' custom MJ bumpers here: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=54

I'll let you know. I was thinking on pealing it off before the stuff set, but gave up on the idea since I was tired, it was messy and I was sick of the mess. :ack: Another tidbit, it took about 1.5 gallons to do all you see (including what's on the plastic on the garage floor). If it worked perfectly, it might have only been 1 gallon. Don't know what I'm going to do with the other 3 gallons. :hmm: It's getting too cold to do any more big projects.

PMs are back up. And tomorrow I'll send out what I've got on hand.

Shoot, I forgot about that. :oops:

In addition to the fact that a factory size blade doesn't curve all the way around the passenger side of the glass, the smaller the blade, the higher the pressure per square inch. I've found it make quite a bit of difference in wiping ability on my well-weathered windshields (the highway I used to drive all the time was concrete, and concrete roadways + Michigan = lots of rock dust that makes tiny divots in the glass.).

Due to the relatively short shelf-life of Zolatone, I rushed through the weekend to get the crap on my truck before the weather turned even colder (it has yet to be proven if it was warm enough as it was). There's little chance it'll still be good come springtime. Step 1: Patch the MJ Replaced the smashed fender, removed the flares, patched the holes, and rolled the flare seams up. Step 2: clean the MJ I used dish soap and a brush scrubber. Step 3: scuff the MJ Found out that I could probably have done this step at the same time as step one since the scuffing pretty much cleans everything off anyways. I used various scuffers as I went along including 180 grit sanding sponges, red scotchbrite pads, and steel wool. Step 4: Mask the edges Lots o' work here. What a pain. I used blue masking tape, newspaper, and plastic sheeting. I prefer to mask off the edges first And then mask off the bulk areas Step 5: spray the MJ Holy cow what a freaking pain in the butt this stuff was! It's insanely messy. Took me a while to find just the right air pressure and spray distance. And I still don't know if I was doing it right. Seems half of the crap just spit out onto the ground. Thank goodness I had put plastic all around the truck on the floor and most of the rest of the garage. It went everywhere. Step 6: wait... Tomorrow I'll find out how well I did.

I just replace the whole wiper assembly. And while we're on the subject, I usually run a 14" on the drivers side and 10 or 11 inch on the passenger side. I find it helps alleviate the passenger side lifting off the glass and keeping that deposit of dirt way over in the corner (on my truck the wiper likes to make withdraws from that area and smear it across the glass).

Maybe he spent too much time in my garage today while I was spraying on the Zolatone paint. :ack: