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Everything posted by Pete M
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Project CRD MJ is born:
Pete M replied to Sir Sam's topic in MJ Hardcore Tech: Epic Journeys to Greatness
I think what Willy's saying is, now that you've found the proper size, be sure to buy one of a better quality. :D I wouldn't use a Fram filter on my lawnmower, let alone a Jeep. :no: -
Found it! http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm
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Best upgrade I can think of is adding in a relay to bypass the sucky MJ wire harness. :thumbsup: I don't seem to have saved the link to that writeup :hmm: , so hopefully someone else will chime in with it.
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Need more info on them. 2-door XJ seats fold forward, 4-door seat do not The straight sliders are more of a direct fit. Curved sliders will sit you up a couple inches higher than MJ buckets would. And $50 is "priced to sell", $150 is crazy.
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Don't worry, I taped them off first. :D I had a shop install those about 10 years ago. Back when the truck was a 2wd daily driver. I believe they were called "mini van vents", as in a smaller version of the "van vents", not vetns made especially for minivans (although I guess you could put them in a minivan if you wanted :dunno: ).
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Be sure to pull up the carpet at some point in time to see if there's any moisture under there. :thumbsup:
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Somebody has to tell everyone that the ThunderChief, SCCA racer, and the LS2 are still hanging around. :D
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The best fuel economy will generally come when the engine is in its sweet spot of maximum torque. Adding the bigger tires drops it out of that zone. Adding 3.55 or 3.73 gears in the back will bring it back up. 4.10s will likely be too much for 31s. My mileage dropped as I went from 215s to 30s, then came back up when I installed 3.55s (after the 3.07 Dana 35 blew up on me when turning a corner).
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Because the parts stores/catalogs usually don't know what they're talking about.
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Aren't XJ roofs corrugated or something like that? MJ roofs are just curved sheetmetal.
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:agree: Money should never be spent on a Peugeot beyond new gear oil.
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I looked this up for something and figure while I was here I'd bump for any new guys/gals that haven't seen it yet. :D
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If you're going to be buried in your truck, I'd recommend having your body skeletonized first. Otherwise you'll ruin the carpet a couple months later. :teehee: (ever see the Mythbusters episode with the corvette?)
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-don't know, but sockets and snap ring pliers are on the list -Nope, the HO is a 4.0L -If properly taken care of, 200k+ miles is quite common. Accidents, rust, and misuse are the big killers of MJ/XJs
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I had problems with occasionally stalling in intersections and I only had only 30 inch tires on my 2wd/4.0L. :ack: I'm not kidding. Also, 2" of lift for you is only 1" of lift on a 4wd MJ and is likely not enough to run 31s on aftermarket rims without tearing into the bottom corners of the fenders. Don't forget that you'll need an alignment after lifting an MJ any amount. And I'm not exactly impressed with that price. What kind of tires are they? I personally wouldn't do what you're contemplating.
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Adding 31 inch tall tires will MAKE it a dog. It's the same as installing a crappier gear ratio in the axle. Being 2wd though, it's pretty easy to grab a new axle from the junkyard to get a gear ratio that will better match the new tire diameter. :thumbsup: Those are aftermarket rims and likely have ~3.5" to 4" of backspacing which will put the tires into the flares when turning (and I'm not talking about "only at max turn", I'm talking about at about half-turn). 3" of lift (4" for 2wd MJs) is generally required to accommodate aftermarket rims with 31" tires. Jeep rims will work better and with less lift. I have 0 lift on my 90 (which will be about 1" of lift for a 2wd MJ) and only added WJ lower control arms to prevent rubbing at full lock.
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The Dave's MJ "The Comanche Challenger"
Pete M replied to thedave360's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I knew that logo looked familiar. :D Good choice. :thumbsup: -
Yes and no. It's technically not a "bedliner" material. It's called Zolatone. This is the writeup on what I did: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10585
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Both of my dogs are mutts, and were essentially free. Wouldn't trade them for the world. :thumbsup:
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This is where I would cut. Even with a photo I find it hard to explain. :hmm: But bottom line I would leave the structural integrity of the frame and floors alone and move the outer sheetmetal only. Then fill in the rockers, roof, and new floor area with the appropriate sheetmetal. A problem might arise at the fuel filler door. The leading edge is just about 9" from the front of the bed. Now ya got me wanting to do this. :shake:
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There are a few other guys working on extensive modding of the body so they might be able to give more details of their work, but I (in all of my inexperience) would cut the back wall and side walls (behind the doors) free from the truck, slide them back into the position they need to be to work with the new door, then weld in the missing sheetmetal. Then shrink the bed to match. Sounds fairly easy in my head. :D Reality might prove otherwise. I've been working (in my head) with a similar conundrum concerning my idea of stretching a fullsize Cherokee to give it another foot of wheelbase.
