Pete M

I ran those saggy springs (with an extra main as an AAL) for years and the flex was awesome. :D When I decided to replace them, I found a set in Florida on car-part.com and picked them up on the way back from a Disney vacation. Now the rust-free leafs are installed (again with an extra main leaf as an AAL) and thus far I dislike them. They are too stiff for my tastes. But eventually I'll be able to wheel more often and break them in right. :D

Won't you have to drop the axle anyways? :hmm: And it's gotta be the easiest welding in the world. Both metals are nice and thick and the welds themselves are not under tremendous stress. I don't remember ever hearing of perch welds failing. I guess it might have happened. Heck, some of us have installed everything sans welding, tightened it all up nice and tight, and then drove slowly to a local shop without incident. Brake shops are probably the most common place to get random welding done. Don't fear the welding, it's easy and straightforward. :thumbsup: And that rocky road "kit" is only half a kit. Longer control arms are incredibly important at that height. Don't go cheap on a lift kit just because you think the better kits are for "hardcore" guys. You do get something for your money with ride quality and product quality. :thumbsup:

One down. 3 to go. :D

Could you paste a link here for future searchers? :thumbsup:

You don't have to trust your own welds. I built my bumpers with a small welder that could penetrate tin foil. I used it to tack the pieces together and then hauled the bumper to a local pro for final welds. Super strong and super cheap. :D It is of the utmost importance that you extend the bumper brackets as far back as possible and use as many grade 8 bolts as you can. As you found out, the stock bumper mounts are barely strong enough to keep the bumper from flying off with a strong gust of wind.

Waste of money in my humble opinion. Get some of the beefy perches from Mopar for $15 and find someone local to burn them on for beer. :D

Same here. My 88 is rusty as all get out, but it's no big deal to patch each hole/weakness with non-rust-able materials (or armor) as I find them. And I'll never ever bring a clean MJ to Michigan again (although, admittedly I wasn't the one that brought my 86 here, I just didn't take enough precautions to keep it clean). That's just a death sentence for the poor truck. :(

Acquiring a 350 engine is the easy part of that swap. But if you can do it right, you'll have one ginormous smile on your face. :D Be prepared to kiss your entire drivetrain goodbye and then wage a never-ending war to cool that beast. :thumbsup:

Fixed it for ya. :D

The only thing you'll have to worry about is capping the originating vacuum port :thumbsup:

What about keeping the older pump and using an matching fuel gauge in an A-pillar pod?

Check that ground (dr side right behind the taillight housing), and then check the trailer harness (probably should re-do it), and then check the factory connector in the rear wire harness. It's located right behind the drivers side rear tire. I has corrosion in there that once robbed me of my brake lights. It was so bad that I had to hack the whole connector out and replace it with an aftermarket one. :(

Yah, I guess broken springs would be a good reason to replace it. :D

Doesn't really matter much if you shift right or not (although abusing it will likely cause failure to happen sooner). The Peugeot is like the Dana 35, it'll break whenever it feels like it and sometimes for no good reason. Yours might last forever. Or it could blow a hole out the side tomorrow. :dunno: Mine went for about 180k and then self destructed (blew a hole out the side) while simply tooling along at 65mph on the freeway. :fs1: It's best to read up on the AX-15 swap and at least be mentally prepared for the day it does die. :thumbsup:

You don't have to cover all the possibilities, just post up your experience in a dedicated thread so others can find it easier. :thumbsup: People like pictures and you took a bunch of nice ones.

Bummer man. :( But I guess it sounds to me like your truck is begging for that 4.0. :D

In theory the rear U-joint angle should change the same amount as the front U-joint angle and so they would remain the same relative to each other (which is the important thing for vibration cancellation). I added a couple things to the list.

Pete, time for a SD camera!!! Pop the lil chip thingie out and with it comes all your pics!!! :shake: :yes: :eek: :D there is a card in the camera, but I don't have a card reader on the computer. :dunno: But I did find the cable today so here we go: First up is the old fender. I didn't paint it very well since I only wanted to get a feel for how the paint was applied. Tools of destruction: First up was the stick, which snapped din half after the second blow. Then we stabbed at it with the sharp end of that stick and were able to chip a piece off. Then we hit it with the log and mushed a small flaw where the little stub stuck out of the log Then we beat the snot out of it with the rubber mallet, which only dented the fender. We popped it out and hit it some more with the same effect. Then we threw a rock and the baseball. the rock made a chip, the baseball did nothing but leave a dent. then we hit it with the sledge, and the sledge had no problem squishing flaws into the paint surface. In the end, I fear that these tests, while fun, are not completely indicative of the strength of the paint on the truck since I didn't put as much effort into the fender (though I did scuff it up and hit it with primer). I think the cooler temperatures in the morning may have hurt the curing of the paint. :dunno: Someday I might actually get that dang truck on the trail and then we'll really see how the paint holds up. :D

Haven't heard a reply on that yet. His private life is pretty much eating up all his time at the moment so I haven't been bugging him about anything unless it's an emergency.

I used poly mounts at the spear end with no apparent ill effects, but the poly C-bushings sucked. They just did not allow for any flex. If you find a source for new rubber C-bushings, let me know. Back in the day I couldn't find anything (although I really haven't looked for them recently).

Nice photos on the wiper motor install. :thumbsup: Have you made a DIY post yet?

vB is a fee forum software, phpbb is a free forum software and so we're usually a bit behind with new add-ons. I'm sure it'll be available eventually.

Find a place that you can fully stuff the front tire and turn it lock to lock. Measure how close everything is. Then decide how those measurements would change with longer bumpstops or any trimming. Don't forget that a static load isn't necessarily the same as a dynamic load. My front tires never touched the back of the fender until the front end of the truck fell into a hole as I was driving up a trail and the front tire came back and smashed the fender pretty bad. :(

What do you think is wrong with the disk?