Pete M

If I remember right you got a warning on your first post....... Also I don't think that I have ever seen you do any sort of tech posting on here at all. :brows: :wavey: :dunno: :yes: :???: :doh: :fool: :rotfl2:

the bottom one is the emergency line. note that I made that mistake already when I eliminated that line from my truck. :shake:

I found it easier on mine if I got my fingers between the handle and the little ring behind it and separated the 2 as much as i could.

all i know is the KJs. it's the front caliper body touches the inside of most 15 inch rims. Clearance can be made with some grinding on the caliper body. The "soft 8" rims are said to clear with no grinding. (or you can use pads that are 80% worn as I discovered). On KJs at least. I've never had any problems with the KJ rear disks clearing (they are smaller than the front).

should work. the peugeot has a 21 spline output and the aw4 should have it as well. Pay attention to the input spline length, as some had short and some had long (and for the life of me I can't remember what had what). What gears are in the axle of that 87? :brows:

Everyone should own a grinder. I used it more than anything else for metal shaping in the buildup of my truck. my current one cost me all of $10 on sale at Harbor Freight. No good excuse not to own one, even a small one. :thumbsup:

I figured it was possible.

Photo instructions are located here: :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11077

some recent threads for your reading pleasure... :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19737 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19727 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19722

Seems to be a hit or miss situation. some guys have gotten lucky, some have gotten screwed. as a general rule of thumb, we advise against it since the factory says so. :thumbsup:

well, it is free. :D you get what you pay for. :typing:

I'm so bummed about not having the bandwidth to download everything 'til I get home. :( on a side note, am I the only one that wants to climb up that arch? :D

KJs require 16s to clear the fronts.

Not KJ (they are single piston), you want WJ Calipers (twin piston) with the Akibono calipers (not Teeves). You would have to swap to WJ knuckles to run them and use WJ lower ball joints with MJ/XJ uppers. More info here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1004721 95-96 XJ Dual diaphram booster/master is the most painless swap, but you can use ZJ or WJ boosters with more mods. With the upgrades/tips mentioned above you should be ok. Just drive smart. I was probably thinking that the KJs were also dual piston since they require 16" rims.

I think the 44 snout is an inch longer than the 35. being 700+ miles from my MJs makes it hard to check. :(

Having towed plenty of things without trailer brakes, I'd go with electric. Mostly for the ability to apply trailer braking with just a slight tap of the pedal. I would have loved to have had that ability a time or two. It is my intention to get a dolly with E-brakes for hauling my MJs around. (until I get that diesel Excursion at least :D )

that aussie guy isn't the only one rocking the WJ arms. I installed them on my 90 (stock height with 31s). my writeup is here (bottom of page one): viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1556

The AW-4 is approximately 1" longer than the AX-15/peugeot so the driveshaft will be 1" shorter.

fords typically come with a drivers side differential on the front axle (meaning a drivers side "drop" on the t-case). Chevys, dodges, and older Jeeps frequently came with pass side diffs.

dunno. That guy advertises a "ford drop". My gut is telling me that Scouts were pass side diff from the factory. can't say for sure though.

depends on what those 60s originally came from. If the front axle is a passenger side diff, then that makes life more difficult.

yes, the Peugeot and AX-15 are essentially the same length. :thumbsup:

metric sized tires tend to be accurate. tires listed in inches tend to be undersized a bit. :dunno:

The AX-15 wasn't offered behind 4bangers. It's an AX-5. baby brother to the AX-15. :thumbsup: