Pete M

if the guy was running it in his wrangler, does that bellhousing come with it?

I don't remember the last time I heard anyone complain of any coils being too soft. :dunno: Add in a big ZJ sway bar and the proper longer links to those 150# coils and street manners should be just fine.

:rotfl2: and you found this out how?

FINALLY!!! the new conduit is finished and the wire is through it to the garage. tomorrow we fill in the ditch and start the laborious process of wiring in the new fuse box and connecting to power.

Supposed to be above freezing tomorrow!!! :banana: Good thing too, cause that excavated dirt is now a frozen pile and I'm ready to bury the new conduit. :doh:

what about a dodge power wagon? Not available from the factory as a diesel. Willy Nor does it seat 7. I want a minivan on steroids. :D

I have rusty's 3" 180# coils and love them. admittedly I don't think Rusty was making his own coils way back then. the coating has long since flaked off and they are rusty as all get out, but the coils are perfect for my truck. I have the maximum flex my truck can give. I do have the heavy front bumper which is why I got the 180# variety. yes I have more than 3" of lift. the ford radius arm setup lifts the coil buckets 2" higher than the stock Dana 30.

i sometimes add club.com to the end of comanche. :yes: even worse, I'll add @hotmail.com to the end of my own name. never should have used my name as my email addy. :doh:

yes it's possible to convert, but it will likely be much more money than finding a 4wd trans and selling off your 2wd AX-15. :thumbsup:

huh? it's right back there. pull off the cover and snap some pics. :fs1: :dunno:

I would prefer that everyone simply ask their questions if they can't find them using the search. Whatever it may be. For those who are bothered by any repetitious questions, how about bookmarking previous similar threads and posting links to them?

stick or auto is all up to you. :thumbsup: there is a thread in the DIY" forum that explains both.

started a project thread yet? :brows:

You lucky son of a... Rob L. ;) I wanna go back. you ever get a response from that guy about the Thunder Chief?

How far can he throw it? :D

:rotf: it costs about $30 per year per vehicle for fire/theft. [/thread hijack] Wade have you unplugged the CPS yet? Any corrosion inside? Checked all the wire connections throughout the ignition system? I had a hard-start issue in the 86 that was simply corrosion in the positive wire on the ign coil.

I saw at the Chrysler storage building. Essentially Chrysler is keeping it and they take it around on tours with other Jeep concepts and rare jeeps. :thumbsup:

what was there before was too small and indoor-use-only. I'm replacing it with heavy duty outdoor stuff. :thumbsup: :rotf:

I'm told it's Romex. 3 plus ground, solid strand, in a black sheath. Looks like household wire. Oh, and we've found that the conduit as it nears the garage was only 3" underground. We're doing this proper this time. 8 gauge individual wires in continuous outdoor conduit to a breaker box in the garage. 40 amp double breaker in the house, two 20 amp breakers (initially) in the garage with space for 4 more. It'll be 220 capable :D

does the knocking sound like it's coming from the trans? When was the last time you check the gear oil level in the Peugeot?

it's possible that the bulbs are simply burned out. When you pull the cluster to check, also look closely at the back wiring to see if there are any cracks or breaks in the lines. :thumbsup:

nope the shifter won't pull back properly? or nope there isn't any rust underneath? This thread will show you how to fix the CAD (the vacuum pod thing, stands for Central Axle Disconnect) and never worry about it again. :D viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

The garage is still there, though darker than before. And the more I dig, the more I'm shocked that the guy ran the wires how he did. He was a licensed electrician for goodness sake! I've discovered that the decidedly undersized wire (for anything more than florescent lights) was routed through an opening in the basement wall (a short piece of pipe that seems original to the house), routed under the deck BARE, and enters metal indoor conduit right at the other end of the deck with NOTHING TO PREVENT WATER FROM ENTERING THE TUBE!!!!!! Not even electrical tape. :fs1: This is why I always do the work myself. If necessary, I'll pay a pro to check my work.

If you want something that will save your neck, you might want to focus on getting materials that will actually save your neck. OEM stuff is not really know for that. DOM is where it's at. :thumbsup: I agree with you 100% if i was going to use my mj hardcore. Worst it might see is a flop on its side. If i do end up wheelin it harder in the future DOM for sure and use the first as a template. Most guys that roll over never intended to. I have a friend that endo-ed his willys twice down a big but gradual hill cause he caught a rock wrong at the top. His cage held up fine. In my opinion, if you're contemplating a cage, you're already wheeling plenty hard enough to justify doing it right. Otherwise, go with a rollbar (and a real one, not the aftermarket light bars). I did. 2" DOM and it's welded securely to the frame. The only thing I regret is not adding the diagonal in the initial build. I had planned on putting it in with phase 2, but that phase fizzled and so I'm stuck with less strength than I wanted. :(

My 90 MJ exhaust has been delayed a bit. Seems the garage wiring has decided to burn itself up. the two legs shared a common neutral and for whatever reason it overloaded and fried (nothing was happening other than I tried to turn the lights on). We found water in the conduit running to the garage (can't say if that's the cause though) and so tomorrow I'll be digging up the whole mess to run new stuff. I've been wanting to rewire the garage for years now, but didn't want to do it in the cold. booooo. Oh well. Here's to upgrading. :D