Pete M

tires listed in inches are rarely as tall as the number would indicate. i.e. 30" tires are usually shorter than 30". tires listed in the silly 235/75 fashion are generally accurate in their listed dimensions.

30s are only a hair bigger than 235s

close. try right clicking on the image, then select "copy image location" and paste that here. highlight it, then click the IMG tag. should give you something like this: which gives you this:

curb weight is only 3k or so.

1475 for all non-metric ton MJs. hard copy. got it off ebay years ago. :D

GVWR: 4551 according to the 88 dealership brochure.

too short control arms can also contribute to a rough ride. as will stiff springs and cheap shocks.

email your photos to comancheclub@hotmail.com and I'll take care of the rest. :thumbsup: you will need to eventually figure it out though. we love seeing pictures of MJs. :D

there's nothing impressive about the old diesels. :ack: they were anemic and parts can be very hard to come by.

1986 is the wild card. you could still have 3.55s or 3.73s. Gotta check to know for sure. If you don't want to pull the cover, you could jack up one rear tire (trans in neutral) and rotate the tire around twice while counting the rotations of the driveshaft. if the driveshaft rotates 3 and a half times, it's 3.55. If it does a bit over 4 times, then 4.10s.

some photos of your current setup would be nice. :thumbsup: If you MJ is currently spring-under, then you just need newperches burned directly above them in spring-over configuration. There's no need to remove the originals, so you could still revert back to stock at any time. Also, if the axle was NOT out of an MJ originally and was installed using aftermarket perches, then the bolt-on kit WILL NOT WORK. It is designed to use the stock MJ perches. The kit's pieces fit into the inside of the perches and uses them for both locating and for strength.

just so there's no confusion, the original Street Comanches weren't lowered. They were stock height 2wd MJs.

what is the Dana 44 out of?

high miles mean little to our engines. :yes: what you change in your truck when installing a later model engine depends entirely on how much you convert. you can swap in a block and change almost nothing. or you can gut your truck and do a complete conversion. or something in between. if you swapped the entire wire harness, then you'd simply need to swap the speedo sender unit into your t-case and plug in the new wires.

muffler shop. they have welders and they don't charge astronomical fees. just do the work yourself to remove the old perches and figure out where the new ones go, then haul the axle to the shop. what rear axle are you looking to use?

this one?

one is the main line running to the rear. the other is the emergency line running to the rear. the front valve is only a splitter or combination valve (not a proportioning valve), and in the event of a loss of front brake pressure, it diverts rear power to the emergency line, which bypasses the rear height sensing valve (which is our proportioning valve) to give full power to the rear. run a search for "prop valve" or something like that and you should find the various methods of removing the rear valve if you choose to do so.

take pictures! :clapping: or better yet, video!

doesn't even look all that bad. :dunno:

yup. just gotta replicate the system as you see it in the 97. take photos. lots of them. and be sure to grab the heater hoses too. the late model XJs don't have that silly heater valve that gums up in my trucks.

splicing brake lines is a BAD idea. the system can produce way more pressure then those compression fittings can handle. plus as paradise said, if the line is bad in one spot, it's likely bad in others too. You need to replace the entire line. You can either get some bulk tube and rent a double flaring tool, or you can buy the long lengths of pre-flared lines and just connect them together. I've done both and the pre-made lines were easier. also I highly recommend a small brake tube bender. :thumbsup:

sure it's not the filler tube rotted out? I've heard they are on ebay for about 100.

any competent local shop should be able to fab one up for ya. :thumbsup: but yah, we're pretty much on our own when it comes to rear bumpers.

then you merely have the consequences of a spool with the 260 joints. :D

a 4" lift and a Dana 44 should balance each other out and your driveshaft should be fine as-is. :thumbsup: