tugalo

Will an early Dakota bumper fit....looks the same.....

88 longbed 4.0 B/A-10. My 3.07 is starting to growl. Anybody have a good 3.07 rear assy?

not a good thing...that vacuum lowers the pressure in the block and helps prevent oil buildup in your air filter....

Most multimeters are set up to read voltage, current, and resistance. when working on a car, about the only things you will need to check is voltage or resistance. the power in a car is usually always 12 volts DC so set your meter to read the nearest value above 12v. Usually on most meters it will be 20 VDC. then put the negative lead(black) on a clean ground and touch the positive lead (red) to the contact you are checking. Meter should read power. Practice by putting the black lead on the battery negative post and the red lead on the battery positive post and you should see 12 to 13.5V. Resistance measurement uses a battery that is built into the meter. Set the meter to the ohms (resistance) scale and simply read across the component you are checking. none of the above will help you much unless ;you have a wiring diagram for your car, and can read it.

Lie down on your back on the driver's side (easier if you take the seat out), with a flashlight, follow the actuator arm for the brake pedal as it disappears up into the gloom. Up toward the firewall, ;you will see a switch. It is the brake pedal disconnect for the cruise control and disengages the cruise when you step on the brake, It has an electrical AND a vacuum connection. found a bad vacuum side on my 90 XJ switch. Don't know why I'm even trying to help......anyone who can score a $425 MJ has had all the help anyone could expect !! Good luck.

I've had good luck with the vinyl/plastic dye on things like door panels and dash. just use an adhesion promoter before spraying. That would change your door panels to gray until you can find a pair. with a llittle creativity they can look custom by adding some small black and white details....

look here: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html When you remove the cluster, the circuit board is very easy to follow and repair once you have the schematic of the inputs.

If the A and B pillars are not damaged, and the doors open and shut smoothly, you are only talking sheet metal repairs......go for it. May be possible to beat out the dent from the inside and fill the resulting uneven spots with gum pucky.....

I know that most Manche owners are pretty fair mechanics and do not like paying the high prices for new parts or someone else's labor. Mr. Mike Rowand has posted an extremely well written article on how to DIY. Check out the link below and see how easy this is to do yourself. http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/DIYFuel ... eaning.htm In the article, he also list sources for the necessary parts, but their are other and cheaper places to buy them as kits.....

It's that time of year again to take care of our cooling systems, so, out comes the hose, the flush, and new anti-freeze. I was thinking about using the removal of the temp sensor to bleed air out of the head, and came up with a system to do a complete flush. I installed one of those pressure flushing tees in the heater hose, and bought a brass 1/8" pipe thread-to hose barb adapter with a 1/4" inside diameter. $1.29 at TruValue hardware REmoved the temp sensor and replaced it with the adapter and a 5 foot length of 1/4" clear hose as an overboard drain. Connected the water hose to the flushing tee and turned on the water. Started the car and watched the old antifreeze come out of the drain hose till it was clear. Put the temp sensor back in, removed the water hose, and added the system flush chemicals. Let her run for the required time and then cool down. Removed the sensor, replaced it with the fitting and drain hose, connected the water, started her up, and waited for it to run clear again. Shut her off, removed the water hose, and added pure antifreeze into the overflow tank. The water in the block is gradually pushed out by the antifreeze, and the drain hose will run a little green, but a full gallon and a half went in easily....no possiblilty of air bubbles or blocks. Replaced the temp sensor and buttoned her up for a test drive. The procedure is much harder to describe than it is to actually do it. Took about 20 minutes and did not have to remove any radiator hoses. Keep in mind that my thermostat is drilled top and bottom to prevent air locks, and that you do not want full water pressure on the hose.

best/cheapest option is a mid-nineties, mid-size Mopar bottle. Different shape requires removing the OEM bottle and mounting bracket to install it, but it has a REAL radiator cap on it and an overflow line if the pressure gets too high. Pull it with all the hoses and its a piece of cake to install. It's also made of really heavy duty nylon so it won't split.

go to the JY and get a mid-nineties Mopar coolant bottle. It is shaped a bit different and requires removal of the mounting bracket for the OEM bottle. The advantage is that it is made of really heavy duty nylon and has a real quick-lock pressure relieving radiator cap. Get it with all the hoses and it will hook right up....

Blinker lights that stay on usually means a bad socket, they are in the help section at the auto parts store...run 15W40 Rotella diesel oil with any filter except Fram and see if she quiets down.

88 MJ, peugeout tranny......has anyone pulled their gear shift to service the tranny from the top? If so, how do I go about it? Anything to watch out for?

When I did my 90, I ground down the rod a bit too much. I did not get brake lights cause the switch was not actuated. I just made an aluminum shim with a 90 degree bend in it and dropped it in over the brake light acuator switch. The mounting bracket for the switch keeps the shim in place

Most likely cause of your low fuel pressure is the small hose attached to the fuel pump inside the tank.....they frequently rot and lose pressure before fuel even gets to the filter.....

Tank can be dropped without removing anything, but it is easier if you disconnect the rear u-joint and drop the drive shaft down to give you more room...it could be the small rubber hose inside the tank that delivers fuel, they tend to rot over time.....

Piece of cake.........just remove the trim and its all open visible, right down to the rocker panel.

Mine recently did the same thing....oil pressure to zero. Drove it 2 miles to home, took it to the shop, fired it up again, and the pressure was at 50. tore it down and found a LOT of carbon. Best guess was a piece of carbon got into the pressure relief valve and caused the drop. Replaced the pump and cleaned the screen anyway. good to go now. Could be a carbon issue for you also......

There's a good write-up in the DIY section

The coolant bottle from almost any mid-90's mid-sized Mopar will fit....and they have a real radiator cap instead of the leaky screw-on original. they have a different shape and you have to remove the bracket that the OEM bottle mounts on and drill 2 holes in your firewall shelf to make them fit, but they are made of extremely heavy nylon and are much sturdier.

One other thing, before you start replacing parts or getting involved in labor intensive troubleshooting, go here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=44 and do some additional searching. XJ's and MJ's are identical when it comes to diagnosing problems. Where in NC are you located?

Changing the fuel pump or the gasket can be a pain....just did it on my brothers MJ. you have to drop the gas tank to do it. If you decide to change either one, I recommend disconnecting the drive shaft from the differential to give you additional room for tank removal. I don't think the gasket/oring is your problem...it looks to me as if it is just there to prevent gas from leaking out of the tank...I don't see it as a pressure seal. First thing I would recommend is to remove and thoroughly clean allthe ground wires in the engine bay, and then add an additional heavy ground from the battery to the front clip.

go here to learn the correct resistance value for the MAT sensor http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

when mine did it, I found the manifold air temp sensor bad. I also cleaned all the grounds and added an extra ground from the battery to the front clip.