mjeff87

agreed....it is alot of work, but it's not alot of technical/fabrication work. Nearly 100% of the parts bolt in, but it's getting all of the little pieces/parts correctly that's a chore. I swapped a 4.0 into mine, but I spent the better part of a year gathering parts a piece at a time as I found them, and then took the better part of two months working on weekends doing the swap (although I did alot more than was absolutely necessary to get it up and running, but I'm a stickler for details like that..... :D ) End result is something that I built from ground up and am confident in running, and a happier person for doing so. Jeff edit: welcome to the club, from a 'burgher now transplanted to VA :cheers:

Thanks Marcel....I'm retiring a set of BFG AT's that I bought used and still got 40K road miles on, and were about the best tire I've ever driven on in snow before. I was gonna get the treadwright BFG knockoffs (Warden) to replace them (buddy of mine is running them on his f/s pickup and loves them) but for $10 per tire I think I'm gonna go with the Gaurd Dog MT/s. I don't see my TJ being a DD for much longer, prolly gonna try to find a later model XJ for that duty, and maybe start having a bit more fun with the TJ (well, as much as can be expected....it's a 2.5L gutless wonder on the highway :D ) Jeff

it's located at about 11:00 on the bellhousing. Look for a large squarish weatherpack connector toward the driverside rear of the engine at the firewall. Unplug and replug and see if it starts. If yes, replace the sensor. Also, check the fuel pump ground for intermittent contact. It's behind the driverside taillight assembly. Clean/tighten as necessary. Jeff

Anyone here running treadwrights (formerly Hi-tec retreads) on their rigs? I'm a big fan of 'treads and don't want to discuss the pro/cons of them here....just want any input on dealing with treadwright to finalize my decision and drop the $$$ on a set of 31's for the TJ. Couple local guys are running treadwrights and have had noting but good stuff to say about them, FWIW. TIA, Jeff

WBKrazy is spot on with his advice, here's somewhat of a writeup on my swap with some pics of what he's talking about... viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11205 Jeff

leave a couple of the top cover bolts (or at least the center top one) loosely threaded into the axle, and have a large drain pan placed underneath. Use a stiff bladed putty knife or similar tool and pry the cover loose from the side.....when the old sealant breaks free, the bolt(s) will keep the cover from falling off and sending the old gear oil everywhere but into the drain pan. Gear oil has a unique odor, and you either love it or hate it. Use rags you don't plan on reusing if you hate the smell, it lingers ;) Jeff

^^^ I tried to fab that linkage up on my AX15/231 and it didn't work. The geometry between the end of the shifter and the linkage tab on the range shaft on the TC was uncooperative (they were too close together). I think the OP was running an AW4 and had more space inbetween the two. Jeff

Cool.....we gotsta party now :cheers: Jeff

I put the same booster in my MJ (or it may have come from a 96, can't quite remember) and have the same difference in pedal height. Other than it being a bit aesthetically unappealing, it functions correctly. This was probably the best mod I've ever done to mine, and I've done ALOT of mods...... :D I ended up grinding off too much of the back of the booster rod and couldn't get the brake switch to function correctly, so I ended up swapping in the entire pedal assembly from the donor XJ I got the booster out of, and used the newer style contact switch. That was a bit of a PITA working by myself, but the overall booster swap was very easy. Jeff

My MJ has stranded me exactly two times....the first when the alternator went and took the battery with it while I was on a roadtrip and about 60 miles into the middle of nowhere, and the second when the fuel pump died a couple of miles from my house. The pump had been notoriously loud for at least three years (so loud that people "commented" on it when the heard it) but always ran faithfully. One day, I drove it from the house down to the storage facility I rent, pulled up outside the unit and shut it off. Unloaded the bed, got back in, and had no fuel pump, at all. Took me until the next day to source another pump and replace it. Moral of the story....it's not a question of "if" the pump is gonna die, but rather "when". Luckily for me I was only a couple miles from home. YMMV :D Jeff

almost....... you'll have to splice in the MJ sub-harness for the rear lights, XJ's are different. The other 99.95% of the harnesses are the same. Jeff

Black interiors were an AMC-era thing only, '87 being the last year :fs1: Jeff

on the 4.56's comments......they were only available (factory) from 87 to 89, and only behind an AW4. And yes, they did put them in 2WD's. Jeff

Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found The Bugatti that sold for $700,000 that the buyer reneged on Image Not Found Where we sat for the auction, couldn’t get better seats unless you were a bidder Image Not Found

My favorite GM (I had a ’72 with a 305 and TH350…..restoring a Nova is on my bucket list) Image Not Found Image Not Found Some other cool stuff Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Gotta love tractors Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

My wife and I were in Las Vegas last week, and I got the chance to catch the opening of the Barrett Jackson auction at Mandalay Bay on Friday (was live on SPEED if you saw it). If anyone ever gets the chance to go to one, I strongly recommend you stop whatever it is you are doing and go, you will not be disappointed. Here’s a few pics of some of what I got to see: Lots of big displacement engines: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

YJ lines in front, $30: Image Not Found Image Not Found Dakota line, rear, $15, but I don't have a good pic of mine ;) Jeff

Canadian soldiers strip a Jeep to the frame and reassemble in four minutes...... :yes: Jeff http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=2dc_1284230512

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11205 Jeff

I'm strictly a BL guy.....I detest Iron City (sacreilgeous, I know) but I can swill down an IC Light or five if necessary. My father (RIP) was a Schmidt's guy thru-and-thru. I used to get beers for him out of the fridge, and always delivered them open to him. That's how I started drinking beer :brows: His brother (my uncle) was strictly a PBR guy, and my granddfather only drank Old Milwaulkee. As far as "s" beers go, they don't pass my lips anymore. Stroh's, Schlitz, Shaffer, Straub, Schmidt's, Stoney's.....not for me. Jeff

Although I don't drink ANY beer that begins with the letter "s" (for exactly the reason you all may be thinking), this is so true and funny: http://returntomanliness.com/2008/08/10 ... yard-beer/ (apologies to Don in advance :yes: ) Jeff

that's what I did....... Jeff

I use pallets and old spare tires......place the oil pan sump inside the center of the spare, and a ratchet strap or two to keep it from falling over. That said, I do have one sitting on an engine stand currently. It's scheduled for a stroker rebuild sometime before I die.... Jeff

they are inverted torx, E12 size (same as the upper bellhousing bolts on a 4.0L). In a real pinch, you can sacrifice a 12 point socket (5/16" IIRC) pounded onto the heads to remove them but you'll trash both the socket and the bolt heads (do this at your own risk....I had to do it once and it worked but you may end up with bigger problems if you strip the bolt head out completely :D ) You may also have a clearance issue with the inboard bolt contacting the exhaust when you drop it, as the pipe runs directly below it and the bolt is rather long. Replace the crap E12 bolts with regular hex head bolts and washers. Jeff