mjeff87

I just shot bud light out of my nostrils...... :rotf:

dinner tewnite....smoked hamhocks and navy beans (cooked in the slow cooker all day today at work on top of my filing cabinet :chillin: ), cornbread with bacon drippins cooked in cast iron, collard greens, and of course the obligatory Bud Light (X6) not bad for a Yankee...... :D Image Not Found

Mine was off a couple hundred rpm's when I swapped it, but then I ended up swapping in a 4.0L......problem solved :yes: Jeff

There are two different styles of speedometers, which have different cable attachments. Either will work but you may need to change your cable. Easiest way to determine (without actually pulling the cluster out of the dash) is to look at the screws on the face of the speedo. Phillips style heads have the plastic squeeze connector, slotted heads have the metal "tang" connector. Jeff

Sometimes it's not torque, but horsepower that makes the difference.... only four horsepower :D Jeff

depends on where on the cam lobe the lifter is sitting...if it's not on the ramp (not being compressed) it's normal to have a bit of looseness (but you shouldn't be able to swing the rocker off of the pushrod). Try tightening the pivot bolt, then move that cylinder to the intake stroke and check it, it should be solid. If not, you can pull the lifter out of the head, clean it, prime it and reinstall it. See what that does, then we can go from there if that doesn't work. Jeff

check to see if one of the rocker arm bolts has loosened and the rocker arm has slipped off the top of the pushrod. Jeff

I got that the other day, for some reason my pc lost all my cookies......it was quite the PITA. But I survived :D Jeff

you can just pull the shifter, no need to remove the entire plate. Press the metal "cup" surronding it down and rotate it counterclockwise, and it will pop up. Pull the shifter upward and it, the cup and the spring will come out of the shift tower. Jeff

where you wrenching on it Pat? Independant, or somewhere local to you? Jeff

Hey Rick.....don't use a Fram filter, K? :rotf: Jeff

got it from my local parts house that gives me jobber rates. The real problem, however, was the original housing was warped.... Got the new housing with a flat machined surface, used a Victor-Reinz gasket wth a textured surface one one side, and a light smear of RTV black against the block surface. Assembled it loose, let the RTV tack up for about 30 minutes, then snugged it all up. Let it sit for about an hour after that, then refilled it.....and she's good to go. Jeff

just a guess, but I'd suspect a dirty/malfunctioning IAC motor....maybe try pulling and cleaning it. Jeff

Spent the morning replacing the thermostat housing, after three failed attempts at getting the old one to seal after I replaced the thermostat a few weeks ago. I didn't specifically ask for one, but the parts place gave me a high-flow housing, and it juuuusssstttt barely clears the idler pulley and belt. Doesn't leak either, like the old one (turns out it was a tiny bit warped after all :headpop: ) Image Not Found about 1/8" clearance on the idler pulley: Image Not Found little more clearance underneath for the belt: Image Not Found Jeff

^^^I used the same ones but.... if you're going to put them on a D35, the tube OD may be a bit too small for those to fit without building up a lot of weld material. Jeff Image Not Found

both, actually.....to remove the block from the firewall, there's a 4mm (IIRC) bolt that you have to loosen at the bulkhead fitting inside the engine compartment. Once you loosen that, there's two screws that hold the fuseblock to the other side of the firewall you need to remove from inside the cab, then you can seperate the block from the bulkhead and firewall. The interior harness is hard-wired to the block. You have to remove each wire individually from the block to replace it. Jeff

no tabs on the '44 I put under mine Don (it's a stock MJ D44). I used two industrial size (like 1/2" wide) zipties to keep my cables in check. Jeff

I'd be inclined to believe there may be a small difference......a couple years ago I took my MJ in for safety inspection and the shop said the driverside upper BJ was shot and needed replaced. They spent over four hours working on it, and ended up getting the new one to "almost" seat fully. There's about a 1/8" gap between it and the knuckle (works fine though). Jeff

there was a link on NAXJA a couple of days ago to a place that is selling Spicers by the pair for an insanely low price, like $40 a set/side.....lemme see if I can find it (BRB). I need to order a couple sets myself. Jeff edit: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... ball+joint

if it's 'lectric...Jerry can figure it out :bowdown: Jeff

check to see the direction that the hydraulic line exits the unit...I know TJ's exit from the bottom, not from the top like XJ/MJ's do. Not sure about the YJ's though. Jeff

I'm down for one of those, lemme know the when and the $$$ :cheers: Jeff

congrats Cheeseheads....y'all played a great game. Let's go Pens! :D Jeff

I run a yellow top in the MJ, but it's old (like at least 7 years old). Never had a problem with it until a few months ago and it wouldn't hold a charge for more than a couple of weeks. I accidentally left it on a full charge for two days in the garage, and it's been fine since. No comment on the more recent batch of them out of Mexico, but I've been hearing alot of bad stuff about them. There was a huge thread going on them over on garage journal, and a company man even signed up so he could post rebuttals of what everyone was saying.....it was interesting, to say the least. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/show ... hp?t=86382 Jeff

/thread :yes: Jeff