mjeff87

Not the best pic, but the 2.5 is the bottom one. Top one is a 4.0 (HO) HTH, Jeff Image Not Found

FYI, you can buy a replacement flange kit for that crossmember flange. They're hard to find, but I've used them in the past. Lemme see if I can find a part #.... Jeff edit: It's a Maremont #30175 kit, but nevermind....I see your problem is at the other end of the cat.

yep. Here's the whole shebang pulled out as a unit: Image Not Found and here's the whole 4.0 shebang going back in. Yes, it is as scary as it looks LOL. Image Not Found

Not to pick nits, but does it actually fit a 2.5L? Those starters mount to the underside of the block, not the bellhousing.....

The junkyard suggestion is a good one, but with one caution.... Make sure the 'yard didn't punch a hole in the pan to drain the oil from the vehicle before they set it in the yard. I wrestled with a very nice looking pan on a junker one hot summer day for over an hour before I could get it off, only to find a nice round hole in it once I got it on the ground.

pull the coil wire AND the fuel pump relay, so you don't wash down the cylinder walls and booger up the cat with fuel while cranking. Once you have oil to the top end, reinstall the relay and the coil wire.

Had a stinger on my TJ (not quite as obnoxious as the one Don posted, but not a stubby one either). Biggest PITA I ever had when it came to doing anything under the hood. Only reason I had it was because the bumper (with said stinger welded to it) was free. More than once I thought about breaking out the sawzall and removing it. Never even came close to needing it on the trail. Jeff

I dunno about the body panel, but I can confirm the actual plastic battery tray did vary between model years. I've pulled a couple of them out of junkyards that didn't fit the same battery I was replacing the tray under. It would follow that the panel changed dimensions as well.

well, there seems to be enough chrome on it for ya Don..... then again, maybe not :rotfl2:

I agree with ALL of the above :rotf:

Is it for realz this time???? http://blog.caranddriver.com/its-official-jeep-wrangler-pickup-is-coming-in-2017/

From the point that you are at, the injector just pulls up and out from the housing. It may not be willing to come out (there's a large o-ring around the body of it), but it will eventually.

Yes. See the 2 metal lines that run into the back of the TBI cover (the big black round thing in the center of your pics)? Those are the fuel lines (one supply, one return).

re: overflow bottle When I converted to 4.0, I reused my stock 2.5 overflow bottle (as shown in earlier pics). I kept the stock 4.0 air filter box, though, and had to modify things a bit. I deleted the EGR solenoid and associated plumbing and wiring (capped off the EGR altogether as well) and had to cut/fold the pinch seam above the inner fender to accommodate the 4.0 wiring harness behind the bottle. It worked fine.

Thanks. Mine had a bench, but I swapped it out for those XJ rocker buckets (reused the bench floor brackets). Not only more comfortable, but the cloth seats were much, much cooler. Did I mention that the black interior was HOT? :rotf:

it was an AMC-era option (through 87). My MJ had a black interior.....was nice, but HOT. Especially with the sunroof I had and no A/C. Image Not Found Jeff

Do you remember if the cigarette lighter panel was blank, of if it had just the socket installed and not the lighter element? It had a blank plate, but the wiring for the lighter was tucked into the dash

My 87 had an AM radio, no cigarette lighter, and a cargo mat.

I remember Jeff (mjeff87) and Rick (xjs4ever). :thumbsup: :waving:

It fits inside a hole inside the "inner tank" inside the tank. Yours is probably stuck inside the hole (when you pulled the pump out, it stayed). You can try to stab the end of the line into the nipple (very difficult), or fish your arm inside the tank and pull it back out. You need fairly skinny arms though :) Jeff

Little late, but what about Firestones? I just put a set of Destination AT's on my KJ.....235/70/16's, for $125 each: Image Not Found

check to see if yours isn't stuck on the end of the manifold, it's probably there.

I did a 2.5/4.0 Renix swap. Pretty much plug and play, but you'll need to replace the underhood harness and ECU. Cab harness/wiring is identical through like model years. Jeff

Flywheel bolts are longer than flexplate bolts. Image Not Found Jeff

It looks like they would fit inside the door jamb below the A pillar and above the upper door hinge. They would block the space that leads inside the fender. I think. Jeff