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Everything posted by mjeff87
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I rolled my MJ for awhile with 33's and 4.56's (AX5, 2.5 as well). It's functional, but brings the suck on the interstate. Like a mule in 4LO, though Then I swapped a 4.0 in, and had too much gear for the highway. Now I'm on 35's and it's just about perfect..... Good job on the swap :cheers: Jeff
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I'm'a gonna come see you after the holidays Paul....gotta buy you a beer or 20 in appreciation for your style :thumbsup: Maybe we can put a small pow-wow together. If nothing else, we can at least all stand around drinking beer and shoot the shiat :cheers: Jeff
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I just got done swapping a Renix 4.0 into my '87 2.5 MJ. Using a 4.0 Renix (MJ) underhood harness, it was plug-and-play almost 100%. I'd imagine you could probably use a late model 4.0 XJ underhood harness and interior harness and that would save you about 90% of the wiring headaches. You'd still have issues with the gauge cluster and the back half lighting, but the majority of the driveline (i.e. get it to run stuff) would be taken care of. Jeff edit: and welcome to the club, fellow Virginian :cheers:
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I'm jealous, and you can tell him I said that.....think he can get me a ride along? :D :D :D
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cloud physicist, hands down.....I've always had a fascination with meteorology. If Id'a had a bit of focus as a youngun I would have persued it as a career. Maybe I'll get rich working for the state, retire early and start a second career (yeah, that'll happen :yes: ) Looking back, I should have gone Air Force instead of Army. I could have been a hurricane hunter, dropping dropsondes into the eyes of hurricanes from a C130. I'd give up various body parts to be able to do that at least once in my life..... Jeff
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^^^^^^ did the same on mine, but I found and used a factory tow bar mount from a junkyard XJ: Image Not Found
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You don't have to remove the steering box, but if you use the additional "L" brackets in the front (highly recommended), there is a small aluminum block inbetween the front of the box and the front radiator support that has to come out so you can tighten the lower bolt/nut on the driverside. Once you get the fastener tightened you can reinstall the block. The block is held by one bolt that screws in from the bottom. Jeff
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the only five vaccuum lines I have hooked on mine are: -CCV line from the back of the valve cover to the TB -MAP sensor to the TB -fuel pressure regulator (from the port on the front of the manifold) -brake booster -manifold vac to the vac resivoir canister, formerly behind the rear bumper but relocated to where the washer fluid resivoir used to be Everything else is capped/removed. Runs great. But I don't have emmisions inspection to worry about, YMMV. Jeff
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HO valve cover on a Renix 4.0 UPDATE
mjeff87 replied to mjeff87's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I'm'a give it a shot and see what happens..I'll only be out $6 if it doesn't work :D It's raining like a SOB here today and supposed to all day tomorrow, so this may be a next-weekend project. I love the JY, but not in the rain. -
HO valve cover on a Renix 4.0 UPDATE
mjeff87 replied to mjeff87's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
the front (fresh air) line is the same size, but the rear one that pulls vac from the TB is larger. In theory, it should pull more pressure back into the TB and keep less of it from pushing out the front line, and dumping oil in the airbox. Or so I've heard, anyway.... Jeff -
Anyone here running a later model VC on a Renix 4.0? I've got some pretty serious blowby issues on the new 4.0, but ONLY at highway speeds. Around town, idling, playing in the woods it's fine. Rumor has it that the larger CCV vaccuum line and the baffle vs. "towers" on the steel cover helps combat pulling oil into the airbox. I'm gonna try one from the JY and see what happens. If it doesn't help, I'll end up doing the hillbilly catch-can thing. Jeff p.s. all the usual blowby fixes have already been addressed with no effect. This engine sat in Pat's garage for a couple years before I put it back together and installed it.....I'm thinking maybe some of the rings may be stuck, but I'd figure they would have loosened up by now (?) Haven't done a compression/leakdown test yet, but it's got tons of power. Would new valve seals help any?
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Yup, sure is...you took such a nice pic I saved it for posterity's sake :D
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nice fab work.....interesting how resourceful Jeep people are, isn't it ;) ? Jeff
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work smarter, not harder (you can drink more beer that way :D ) a small bottle jack is your friend......use it inbetween the axletube and the framerail to push the axle down and hold it there while you slip the springs out and back in, like such: Image Not Found
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Broke out the sawzall and angle grinder this morning and clearanced the rears on the front fenders to be able to at least turn the 35’s. This will do for now, but I really need longer lowers (might even go longarms) to push the axle about ¾” forward. What I started with (you can already see the rubbing :dunce: ): Image Not Found Passenger side done: Image Not Found Image Not Found Onto the driver side: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Leftovers: Image Not Found
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I can't really tell what wires you are talking about from your pic, but there are three sets of wires in that subharness. One set for the knock sensor, one set for the O2, and one set for the coolant sensor. All of yours hooked up?
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If you can read this, thank a teacher If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran... Happy Veteran's Day :USAflag: Jeff
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I'll shock the nutz off you all......I actually bought and consumed a 6-pak of O'douls Amber yesterday It was good.... it wasn't real beer, but it was good nonetheless I'm gonna cut it in on a 1:6 ratio with regular beer (any more than that, and I've got a whole methane factory going on down south) HA! :cheers: Jeff
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all that, whatever the hell it means.......and you can't get your brake lights working?????????? :rotf: (j/k Greg, gimme a call....I'm free this weekend if you can make it down) Jeff
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brake light switch changed, in short.... You can modify the "old" style to work with the new booster pushrod, but speaking from personal experience it's easy to screw up. The "new" style is a contact switch that mounts in a bracket in the pedal assembly, and all you have to do is splice two wires. Jeff
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about 6-7 flat washers is all it takes....been running like this for more than a couple years now. Jeff Image Not Found
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from somewhere in the Caribbean, circa 2006 I was drunk, on a boat...... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found
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Just an updated pic, to bring this thread back around……here’s me and the missus at RIR for the fall race, alongside the Smoke! Machine (boogity, boogity, boogity) Jeff Image Not Found
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Just an updated pic, to bring this thread back around……here’s me and the missus at RIR for the fall race, alongside the Smoke! Machine (boogity, boogity, boogity) Jeff Image Not Found
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if you have to list references, just tell 'em....www.comancheclub.com we'll give them the :thumbsup: for ya wishing luck on ya Jeff
