HOrnbrod

That's gotta be a winner with Tony Stewart's car on the roof.

A 120VAC to 12V transformer is 120VAC is - 12VAC out. A 12VDC power supply is 120VAC in - 12VDC out. It uses a full wave rectifier to convert the 12VAC to 12VDC. Which do you have?

Yes, I certainly like the LCD display. Jeremy, stick one in my radio whilst you have it.

Nope. That's an old pic, the prop rod is gone now - using hood struts.

Yep.

That doesn't matter Krusty as long as they look cool.

Don't forget the equally crappy if not crappier "Made in India" lamps (Autopal comes to mind).

I liked Aietream better. More exotic.

They are all made by Won Hung Lo and his competitors, so I would assume they are of the same quality. I put in a Putco harness with the ugly yellow wire loom years ago and it's still working fine amazingly.

Gojeep (Marcus) figured it out for me. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm

https://gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=35&products_id=547

Huh? There's no "mark-up games" being played. These things listed at well over $200 retail when available. If you can find a NOS unit at $175 you'd better jump on it.

What are you driving??

That's it - forgot that. The HO TCU fuse is in the PDC under the hood..

What's that 10A fuse hanging there? A Renix thing?

Crap, another Photosuckit casualty. This is the ignition switch alignment procedure: Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning On non-tilt columns: Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered. Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). On tilt columns: Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position. Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). Install any components removed for switch access.

Got it - thanks. Looks good. EDIT: Slapped a new dash bezel on today and pulled the HVAC controls to take a peek at the blower switch connector - it looked like new. Oh well, got one in case it smokes later.

You probably jarred your loose ignition switch out of adjustment and/or alignment. Now that you have forced the ignition key with pliers, it might be totally AFU. Here's a good link to check it out: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/basic-maintenance-ignition-switch-1226376/

The clock is from a 91 and up model. If you don't need it I could use it for the guts inside.

^^^ This. Genuine Mopar only.

I talked to them last Friday, asked if the units were in a factory Mopar box and what was the number on the wiring harness. Said they would look and call back. They never did.

Don't know if this has been posted before....

If you come up with something post it up. Will help everyone.

Might be a good idea to attach a braided wire cable or similar to the hood latch and let it hang down behind the bumper somewhere for easy access next time it breaks.