HOrnbrod

Yes, I've had .357s, .44s, .38s, etc., all good. But I'm old school, and I've never used a sweeter shooting piece than my old Walther P38. I guess what matters most is what you're comfortable with. :chillin:

Naw, your truck is from Wisconsin. Maybe worth $125. :cheers:

Ahh yes. Mr. Nine is always ready for those special occasions.

Check for 12V on the coil primary.

I just installed one of those sun roofs - quality product.

Don't need one Hoo, but thanks anyHoo. The wife and daughters have those things all over their cars and they make me gag. :D I know the area pretty well as I used to haul gas out of Richmond all over the Blue Ridge / Shenandoah valley back in the day. :cheers:

hole locations aren't different are they? if this is going to be a project in itself, then i'm not doing it...i'll just swap my failing booster for a good one. I want to do my lift, axle swap, and this all at one time...because the brakes will already need bleeding with the new hoses...and i HATE bleeding ANYTHING. no, no spacer. no need. worse come to worse, i will cut the push rod and reweld it. The spacer is just a flat piece of aluminum. It moves the booster out so it won't hit the firewall. Pull your old booster and stick the 01 up there; you may not even need a spacer if the bolt holes line up. Some guys have even used -gasp- shim washers. :eek:

Yeah mate, and IB lookin forward to my famous Fresh Pine Air Freshener. :cheers:

You must be a Hokie and/or Wahoo at VT and live in Waynesboro. Ooooops, screwed that up, dead brain cell didn't kick in again. :eek: UVA are the Hoos; VT the Hokies. Least I got the Waynesboro right, a stone's throw from Charlottesville. :cheers:

You must be a Hokie and/or Wahoo at VT and live in Waynesboro.

I noticed in my 2001 parts manual that the booster does not have the separate 1/4" aluminum spacer plate that fits between the firewall and the booster and provides clearance. The older 95-96 double diaphram booster did. Is the spacer built-in? Also, the booster part numbers are different between the 2.5 and 4.0; no idea why though. :hmm:

Pull the piece completely off, then scrape off all remaining adhesive on both the rubber trim piece and the body. A heat gun and/or GOO-Gone and a sharp putty knife works well. Then clean up the trim and body with rubbing alcohol, and re-attach using 1/2" 3M double-sided tape.

It's definitely not your cat or lack thereof. Below is the "cat" I've been running for years. There was a similar problem a member of the strokers forum was having with his 96 XJ. His problem turned out to be a bad fuel pressure regulator. Image Not Found

Have you checked with a meter on each wire of the Molex connector to verify the correct signal is there? Somethings missing on one of the wires; I suspect the switched 12V signal. Gojeeps site lists the connector color codes and what's supossed to be on each wire for all the clocks.

Wonder who the heck that is???? Wahoo... I'll get you another clock,, might be able to get the 91+ one for you if you want to deal with the wiring.. I didn't know there were 4 different kinds of clocks though.. Daymed if I know. 8) I've got some 91 extras too if needed. Wiring is easy, they're all interchangible. No pigtail though, have to hardwire it in.

Understand about the poor maintainance compounding his problems. Since you're on your 3rd tranny, that must get tiresome unless you like it. :nuts: Can't imagine you do. So what are your options? AW4?

Must be an awesome rig.............. :cheers:

Check out Gojeeps site here: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm The variety of clocks used throughout the years was numerous; all were flakey until Seiko finally got it right in 1991+. It's the brightest, most reliable, and is easily adapted to earlier models.

amazingly it doesnt have that...it rides just like new...i was actually surprised at how well it drives...better than my XJ does! X2, looks great! But did notice it's still needs a litter pan, like most all of our rigs do. :eek: :oops: :eek:

True, a 3" lift will cause the front wheels to set back in the wheel well, and affect the caster. But with only a 3" lift this can usually be corrected by inserting caster shims between the lower control arms and the frame to move the wheels back forward. The dealer sells 4.0mm thick shims very cheap or you can make your own (see http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm). When I installed new WJ lower control arms I also inserted two new 4mm shims on each side and it brought the caster back to the factory recommended 7*. Changing caster will affect the front pinion angle also, so it's usually a compromise between the two adjustments.

Man, I'm surprised the XJ guys didn't jump on that cluster. Not many left....

Errr, that won't work JT, unless you swap out the circuit foil piece on the back of the cluster. On the tach-less clusters there is no provision for the tach input from the connector.

For what?

The speedo will easily bolt into a full gauge cluster.

Sure does - good eye. :thumbsup: Yes, there's only one grease fitting per joint. Hopefully he'll read more of this post before motoring down to the parts store tomorrow. :cheers: