HOrnbrod

Here JT: http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-4192-237-amc-jeep-commanche-1986-91.aspx The rear bar only fits the short beds.

Absolutely. It can only help the overall handling, especially on body roll with a load, and when towing. There is a bolt-in aftermarket rear swaybar still available for the short bed MJs, but none I could find for my long bed. :cheers:

Actually it helped decrease the understeer in my application. I have a 3" lift, achieved by new MT leaf springs on the rear, TeraFlex shackles, and OME lift coils on the front. The thicker sway bar complimented the increased stability provided by the MT leafs on the back, especially when hauling loads, and the heavy shell that I carry. It's well balanced, and the handling is actually better and more consistent than pre-lift. All-in-all a very worthwhile upgrade.

Helps a lot goblazers_6. 27mm = 1.06", mine measures 1.125" w. my micrometer, so it's most likely the same bar. Got it from Tapco, NOS OEM, $18 + $6 shipping, supposedly for a 96 XJ Country. Really helped the body roll for me. Very much appreciate you sending the info. :cheers:

Hmmm, that's interesting. The primary negative mains cable engine ground on mine attaches to one of the bell housing bolts. Also attached to this bolt is the A/T dip stick tube bracket. The body ground attaches from the negative battery post to the right inner fender well. If your negative mains cable was attached securely to a bolt threaded into the block w. no corrosion, that's a great place for the engine ground; you should have been golden. Do you also have the engine ground and body ground tied together? There should be a mains cable the same size as the engine ground cable going from a stud on the left rear cylinder head to the firewall. The OEM "cable" was a braided mesh POS that ofter rotted in half. This 3-mains cable configuration provides a continuous loop that provides the same ground potential to the battery, body, and engine.

I'd try pulling the chime module if it's still there JT for starters mate.

You picked the best shipmate. :cheers: Sonarman is a good rate. Retired USN, subs then tin cans, Vietnam vet, Desert Storm as a DoD civilian, Telecommunications. Where you heading for boot? Great Lakes? Enjoy and make the best of it. Two daughters attending college under ROTC scholarships. Daughter #1 Army nursing, #2 USAF engineering. Covering all the bases. :D

Congrats Jeff-man! Looks and sounds great! Were you peeing down your leg as I was when I first fired up my new stroker? Wish I had documented it as you have done so well. I hope you're slamming the brews down 'bout now - you deserve it mate. :cheers:

HOOOOOAAAAAAAHHHHHH! Another sloppy win today for the Tide against Kentucky. Maybe we be #1 next week?? Doubt it though as Oklahoma beat the crap and ran the score up on Baylor. ROLL TIDE!

Correct, it's located on the right fender well inside the engine compartment on 1991 and up XJs and MJs. It's loaded with the higher amperage fuses not inside the drivers side cab fusebox, and also contains several relays. It's fed directly from the alternator output.

Aye, X2. NO, it's not just you JT. What civil authority is responsible for the maintainence of this sacred place? And why are you allowed parking there for posing pics? Dayem, that sucks..........

Well, I must be one of Eagle's documented statistical (I'm sure) 1/3 who has a functional load leveling rear valve. I'm getting really sick and tired of hearing "dump the rear load leveling valve" in all cases. I've done the 96 booster upgrade, and converted to rear Explorer disks, and have retained the valve. The only mod I did was to extend the axle to valve arm rod to match the lift. I haul heavy loads all the time and the load leveling valve still does exactly as it should, biases the rear brakes exactly as it should. Should it ever fail due to an internal diaphram failure (which I've never heard of, most failures are caused by rotted out brake lines and the valve itself is sealed) I will then swap in a similar Toyota load leveling valve, because it works! With a Wilwood adjustable or similar, no bias compensation is provided to the rear wheels with a heavy load, it's constant. I suppose if you never haul anything, bypassing the valve is okay. I haul crap, so I'll be keeping it in the system as designed. Oh, and when bleeding the system after mods, following the recommended FSM procedure pertaining to the load leveling valve is definitely recommended. :cheers:

Yeah, 5-speed. I send a note out to Novak asking for recommendations. Thanks for the advice.

Yes, good tranny, believe they were used in the 2000 and up XJs and TJs? Thanks for the info; I'll start looking into this.

After the recent dyno runs I had at Hesco after some engine mods, I was not happy about the 25%+ power loss through the drive train with my AW-4 auto. While it has served me well, I am seriously looking into swapping in 5-speed. The AX-15 should be the easiest I ASSuME, so am looking for advice, guidance, and recommendations. Best to look for a hard-to-find late model donor, or pick up the bits and pieces seperately? Tapco has new surplus AX-15s for $945. Didn't Chryco use these up until 2001? And, are there other optional standard trannies adaptable?

Yea, but you can't get it rolling and pop the AW4 from neutral to first gear to get it started with a dead battery. :teehee: This is entirely true. And also, you don't have a 25%+ power loss through the drive train with a 5-speed. Don't get me wrong, I'd rather have the 5-speed, especially now that the engine is about where I want, but the AW-4 is what I got for now. What's is the last year for the AX-15 Bob? Are there other standard tranny options? Tapco has new surplus AX-15s for $945. This is a blatant thread steal. I'm going to start a new topic. Sorry.....

Do you have the POWER/COMFORT switch on the dash? If so, does it change the shifting pattern?

Well, that's one thing you don't have to worry about with the AW-4. :D

Being you're on your 4th AW-4, I'd suspect an operator problem, or lack of an effective tranny cooler on your junk. Glad you are VERY happy with the Golen. Seems like it might be a decent engine, as the complaints are far less than other engine builders.

Hesco also does AW-4 remanufacturing and torque converter mods. I'm still running my original AW-4 with no problems. I'd give Bennie a call at Hesco and see what he says. I also hear they are working on a modded Toyota 5-speed A340 auto for Jeeps to replace the 4-speed AW-4. Most of the parts are interchangible. But unless you call him tomorrow, wait a week though, because he's leaving for CA Thursday for his annual West Coast visit. They demo their new Jeep stuff at various shows for a week.

Their record speaks for itself; they are the best and have been modifying the 4.2/4.0L AMC/Chryco engines perhaps longer than anyone (except maybe Clifford, and their customer service I hear is less than stellar). They stand behind everything they sell 100%. If you frequent the strokers forums, nobody ever says a bad word about them, except for their prices. :D Take a look at some of the horror stories from other engine manufacturers like Golen and Titan. I've never had any problems, but if I have questions about some mod I want to do, I just pick up the phone and call Bennie or Lee and they give you a straight answer. One guy I know from Bakersfield, Cali uses his Florida vacation to drive his Hesco 4.7L TJ to Birmingham at least bi-annually just for the dyno runs. Bottom line: If it's worth paying a bit more $$ and have no worries for as long as you are running one of their engines, it's the only way to go IMNSHO. :D

I was lucky enough to get my basic 4.5L stroker when they were right around $2K about four years ago. Even at $3500 their crate engines are still on backorder because they are the best. They actually did the R&D for Mopar on the 99+ intakes, and had them on factory experimental ZJs as early as 1996. Soon they are coming out with an alloy block, I saw the prototypes last week when I was down there. Combine that with the alloy head stroked out to 4.8L, DAYEM! Their labor costs have not gone up much; it's what they have to pay for the parts they don't manufacture themselves that's driving the costs up. LOL about your rug rats. Enjoy them and their simple pleasures while you can Wade; it's only going to get worse. :D Soon the'll be asking for $150 tennis shoes, $800 Prom dresses and new Mustangs. :wall:

Got the field goal margin right, but wrong team! I'm happy for you Steeler guys though...........

In all fairness to Rottensberger, the Steelers offensive line looks like our local Arab HS team, and they are 0-5 so far.........

Prediction: Ravens by a field goal. :cheers: