HOrnbrod

Yes, this is true. However, I ASSume by your user name you have a 2.5L engine in your rig? If the donor vehicle of new cluster also had a 2.5L engine, you will be fine and the tach RPM readings should be correct. However, if the donor had a 4.0L, you'll probably have to calibrate the tach to read the correct RPMs. There is an adjustable potentiometer in the tach used to calibrate it.

I sure liked it better in the old days when the flat key for the oil pump was offset so the dist could only go in one way......... :D

The 91s and up have a "tamper-proof" cage built around the odometer, and it's nearly impossible to swap them w/o destroying it. I would guess a speedo shop could do it; I couldn't. :eek:

Send me a PM w. an email address and I'll send you a wiring diagram.

C'mon Taz, the original call for no TD was correct on the field; there was zero indisputable evidence to support overturning that. I'm no Ravens fan, but the officials blew it, again. So what else is new. :???: Seems like the Steelers offense only play well in one quarter, the last one. Their defense is stellar. But I don't think they will make it very far in the playoffs unless something changes matey. :D

C'mon Taz, the original call for no TD was correct on the field; there was zero indisputable evidence to support overturning that. I'm no Ravens fan, but the officials blew it, again. So what else is new. :???: Seems like the Steelers offense only play well in one quarter, the last one. Their defense is stellar. But I don't think they will make it very far in the playoffs unless something changes matey. :D

Try checking the fuel pressure readings at the rail with the vacuum line hooked up to the regulator and w/o the vacuum. I had an XJ that stumbled under load; turned out to be a bad f/p regulator.

Try checking the fuel pressure readings at the rail with the vacuum line hooked up to the regulator and w/o the vacuum. I had an XJ that stumbled under load; turned out to be a bad f/p regulator.

Steelers kind of backed into the win today. An ugly win with a very questionable call at the end. I hate to see games end like that no matter who the teams are. :roll:

Steelers kind of backed into the win today. An ugly win with a very questionable call at the end. I hate to see games end like that no matter who the teams are. :roll:

If it's a 92 and mint, see what they want for the whole thing. There were only 952 made in it's last year, and it's the rarest and most valuable.

If it's a 92 and mint, see what they want for the whole thing. There were only 952 made in it's last year, and it's the rarest and most valuable.

I got mine APC headlight harness from Ebay, but I don't see any there now. This one from Summit looks like the same unit. It's for a 4-lamp vehicle, but will work fine for your 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two headlight plugs and save for spares. There are lots of other manufacturers, just search for headlight harness. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

I got mine APC headlight harness from Ebay, but I don't see any there now. This one from Summit looks like the same unit. It's for a 4-lamp vehicle, but will work fine for your 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two headlight plugs and save for spares. There are lots of other manufacturers, just search for headlight harness. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Would be nice if you could detail how you found the fried resistor (obvious or by troubleshooting) and what year clock you are referring to.

Would be nice if you could detail how you found the fried resistor (obvious or by troubleshooting) and what year clock you are referring to.

Probably have to adjust the rod length from the valve arm to the axle length a bit shorter then Eagle. I extended the rod about 3" to compensate for the lift originally, but it's prolly settled about 1/2" since I put the new rear packs in two years ago. But the rears did lock up first instantaneously just before the fronts w. the heavy load today, and it was a good controlled stop screaming stop. But w/o a load, the fronts always lock up first on a panic stop. Thanks, will take care of that tomorrow.

Probably have to adjust the rod length from the valve arm to the axle length a bit shorter then Eagle. I extended the rod about 3" to compensate for the lift originally, but it's prolly settled about 1/2" since I put the new rear packs in two years ago. But the rears did lock up first instantaneously just before the fronts w. the heavy load today, and it was a good controlled stop screaming stop. But w/o a load, the fronts always lock up first on a panic stop. Thanks, will take care of that tomorrow.

Looks pretty good. See you have a relay there; what are you triggering it with? A dash switch? Also the ground wire looks like a smaller gauge than the power wire, they should be the same gauge. And the ground point is on sheet metal, I try to avoid that with a high amp draw device. How is the load fused? I like the way you wrapped the jack/tire iron stuff too; I'm going to do that too.

Looks pretty good. See you have a relay there; what are you triggering it with? A dash switch? Also the ground wire looks like a smaller gauge than the power wire, they should be the same gauge. And the ground point is on sheet metal, I try to avoid that with a high amp draw device. How is the load fused? I like the way you wrapped the jack/tire iron stuff too; I'm going to do that too.

:agree: BUT if it still works and is not all rusted out like the junk in MI and MN, :D I'd keep it if you haul loads occasionally. Or install an aftermarket Wilwood prop valve and tune it in. :cheers:

:agree: BUT if it still works and is not all rusted out like the junk in MI and MN, :D I'd keep it if you haul loads occasionally. Or install an aftermarket Wilwood prop valve and tune it in. :cheers:

I have to comment on an experience that happened this afternoon regarding braking on my MJ. The Commander has me redoing one of the bathrooms, and we went to Lowes this morning to pick up the vanity and tiles and other junk. I have the Metric Ton springs, and have installed rear disk brakes and the 96 dual diaphram booster and retained the load sensing valve. After the truck was loaded, it dropped about 2" in the back due to the weight, that I estimated was close to a ton - lots of d@mn tiles. Some dude in a BMW slammed on his brakes in front of me at 65 MPH to avoid a jacka$$ who pulled out in front of him, so I slammed the brakes, and the rear locked up, then immediately the front locked up, and we came to a complete stop nice and straight with room to spare. :eek: Cracked a few tiles when the load slid forward, but I'm sure a whole lot more than tiles would have been cracked if the brake load sensing valve didn't work as it should. I'm keepin' it as long as it keeps working, and if and when it gives it up, I'll replace it with a Toyota or similar valve.

I have to comment on an experience that happened this afternoon regarding braking on my MJ. The Commander has me redoing one of the bathrooms, and we went to Lowes this morning to pick up the vanity and tiles and other junk. I have the Metric Ton springs, and have installed rear disk brakes and the 96 dual diaphram booster and retained the load sensing valve. After the truck was loaded, it dropped about 2" in the back due to the weight, that I estimated was close to a ton - lots of d@mn tiles. Some dude in a BMW slammed on his brakes in front of me at 65 MPH to avoid a jacka$$ who pulled out in front of him, so I slammed the brakes, and the rear locked up, then immediately the front locked up, and we came to a complete stop nice and straight with room to spare. :eek: Cracked a few tiles when the load slid forward, but I'm sure a whole lot more than tiles would have been cracked if the brake load sensing valve didn't work as it should. I'm keepin' it as long as it keeps working, and if and when it gives it up, I'll replace it with a Toyota or similar valve.

Pretty good deal, but it would be better if they had a drain plug. 8)