HOrnbrod

Received the lower door seals and installed - took all of 10 minutes. They have been "updated" and no longer use the steel dtrip and pop rivets, but 2M double-sided tape to attach. Clean area well w. alcohol. They have a ridge along the length and this ridge sets right along the bottom edge of the door. It does make a good seal along the bottom, but I'm not sure some kind of universal molding might work as well if you can find it. Part number 55134856, Door - Door and components - Seal - On body, Rocker panel Back - Pick up, 1984-92 1984 - 1992. From the outside"

Whaaa? :nuts:

I think you need the next sheet as the "RESISTOR PACK" I believe is the ballast resistor.

One ohm is a bit low JT. Mine measures about 1.3 ohms (just checked it). The resistors were the same from 84-94. The HOs have both a fuel pump relay and a ballast resistor relay; probably the Renix has only the fuel pump relay to do the ballast switching.

The ballast resistor is bypassed at startup unless some PO altered the original circuit. Once running, the ECU immediately sends a signal to the ballast resistor relay and it's latched into the fuel pump voltage supply circuit. The resistance value on the ballast is critical; some of the "universal" ones are not the correct value and drop the voltage too much or not enough to the pump. I'd pick up a new one from the dealer (p/n 33000682, about $7.00), reterminate the spade connectors on the wires, and install a new resistor.

I suspect that's true. Them when he's sold all the parts he can, he'll also get the scrap value. What a shame if another nice one bites the dust.

Pics no-workee for me............... :roll: EDIT: Now the top pic is there. Like the sweater!

Eggzacerly, as the OEM lug nuts do (and some aftermarket nuts). :cheers: I would not use non-hubcentric spacers or adapters for any application; not something to cheap out on mate.

Yes, be sure you are sitting down in an extra comfy office/computer chair when you see the price, as I'm sure the Wildman and myself are doing......... EDIT: The Wildman is probably sleeping in his chair now....... :D

I suspect the Renix latch relay performs the same function as the Auto Shutdown Relay (ASD) relay on the HOs. When starting the engine the ASD relay latches and looks for a + voltage signal generated when the distributor is spinning. If not, the ASD relay trips and cuts power to the + coil and the fuel pump and prevents starting. A safety thing. I had one stick on a 96 XJ I had so that's the only reason I know this. :cheers:

So you installed the sensor for the new temp gauge in the thermostat housing and removed the ECU aux fan sensor? Are you installing a mechanical temp gauge to replace a non-working stock cluster gauge? And yes, it's not good that the aux fan runs constantly; will cause excess wear on it as well as putting additional load on your electrics. You have two choices; move the sensor for the new mech temp gauge to the left rear of the head where the OEM temp gauge sensor is, or wire your aux fan to a manual switch. If you need a wiring diagram for your 92 to do this, let me know. :cheers:

There are a couple of TSBs floating around dealing with injector heat soak causing hard starting when hot. The "cure" is an intake manifold heat shield or a wrap around the affected injector, usually #3. AFAIK these TSBs were for the HO engines, but maybe there were some also for the Renix engines, no?

No, they are not side-specific. :D

USCGC Comanche, Revenue Cutter, 1920

The only reason I looked at the 97+ ones is because they are a little cheaper (about $2/each). I ordered them online, but they are a discontinued item. So I went to the 1996 and below strips (also discontinued but still plenty around at various dealerships) and ordered them. I should have them in a few days.

Yeah, I really like the Ravines better than the rest. A nice side shot is in order matey! :cheers:

This thread is just chock full of ingenious ways to get into your locked MJ; busting out windows, hiding a piece of dipstick, removing the grille or tail light or bumper or engine to get to a key, do away w. keys altogether, call Mom, etc. etc. etc. ad nauseum. Brilliant! :ack:

Looks like you got the Ravines on? What size meats ya got on mate?

None will fit well unless you get them custom made. When I had the olde bench seat, the vinyl was in good shape. So I removed the covers andst had the center sections replaced at an upholstery shop. Didn't cost much andwas better than the ill-fitting universal seat covers.

HERE and HERE

I like hood pads. They keep the hood cooler and insulate engine noise. I haven't tried the TeamCherokee version, but the older pads (up to 96 I believe) are too thick (1/2"+) and do not seem to last that long. If you ever have to take them off (like for hood vents), they disintegrate. I found a NOS pad on Ebay for the 1997 and up XJs, and it's a lot thinner, about 1/4", and is molded to the hood, not just a layered rug. Seems to insulate better too. And you can get the 1/4" push pins at Lowes for a whole lot less than TeamCherokee charges. :D

Struck out on these - part discontinued. But I did manage to locate a pair for the 84-96 XJs (55134856) from a dealer in IA, $2 more. So these will work for sure and are on the way.

That thing is street legal too. By the looks of that radiator, I don't think I'd want to get stuck in a 5-mile long traffic jam on I-95 in the middle of summer though......... Boil-over Maximus

HERE

I used my heat gun on the blade - it came right off. :D