HOrnbrod

A pic would help Jim. I replaced the supply and return lines (got em from NAPA) awhile back and had no problems. The quick connectors worked fine. I did not replace the actual short connector tubes that screw into the tranny though, is this what you are referring to?

Har! At least it won't kill ya like the USN comm station emergency power systems I used to install on. :eek: I got knocked on my @$$ so many times that's probably why I'm AFU now. :cheers:

Hey Jeff, I must have missed something. I know you swapped in a Renix 4.0, but why do ya have the HO sender/pump? Did you also change your gas tank with a 91-92 tank? :huh???: :huh???:

Correct. I had one too and after trying to find all the non-existent float switches it requires, I gave up on it.

The 97+ sender/pump assembly is kind of a modular unit, but it still has a float that varies a potentiometer. So an old MJ HO sender should work, IF the HO sender pot's value (105 ohms) is close to the 97, and the polarity is the same.

Well, I didn't think so. I know these things are hard to come by. Guess I'll just wait until mine craps out and go from there...... :D

Low Voltage my @$$. I like the HV stuff better. :D Moving on, because of the lack of depth behind the clock, you're limited as to what will fit in there. One thing I've thought about is gutting out the clock guts and mounting a row of matching rectangular panel mount mini digital gauges in the face plate to make them look nice and semi-factory. Like maybe an A/F meter, tranny temp gauge, ambient temp gauge, oil temp gauge, or whatever. This is an ambient temp gauge (not thermostat) fitted in while retaining the clock. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5621 Or you could fit the Sentinel panel in.......

Must be a jarhead then. :cheers:

The PS pressure sensor's function is to increase the RPMs of the engine slightly when your in the stops of the steering gear. Found only on the anemic 2.5L. :D If your engine doesn't stall out when doing hard turns, forget about it.

I have a pair of fish eagles (Ospreys) that have been nesting and raising their young in a nest on top of a big pine tree on the island out back for about ten years now. There's also a family of blue herons in the next tree that have been there even longer. Love watching them catching fish in the lake. They catch more fish than I do..... :D Image Not Found

Yes, another discontinued part. Get 'em from Team Cherokee HERE. They call them a Water Shield.

Depends Depends on the manufacturer. I have a Teraflex adj. track bar that also fits the TJs and ZJs. The RE1600 track bar also fits all the above. But one of them (I forget the mfg.) wouldn't work on both a TJ and XJ/MJ/ZJ because it hit the front diff cover. But I think that issue has been addressed now.

Ooops, I meant steering gear boxes. :nuts: BUT I also have a 01 WJ pump on mine since I changed intake manifolds. Point is, lots of ZJ and WJ/TJ stuff will swap into MJs, like the WJ LCAs, ZJ tierod, etc. etc. Someone should start a thread about this. :D

Hey Rick; The 93-98 ZJ (all) power steering pumps bolt on too, just reuse your MJ pitman arm. It's a lower turning ratio than our boxes (12.7:1 vs. 14.1:1) and feels much tighter and quicker.

Part number 52005233. 1.125" diameter.

Add some new water dams in the doors too Joe if you want it really quiet, and a late model XJ hood pad. :D

That 3M tape is pretty solid and lasts forever if applied correctly. Plus there's no wind to get under them located where they are and they are not going to blow off. So you can always re-apply more 3M tape if needed. I had a 96 XJ I bought new in 97 from AAFES in Guam; got it real cheap because it was caught in a typhoon and sat for about a week in salt water up to the floor. I remember it had these same moldings on all four doors and when I sold it three years later they were all still tight. :D

:agree: It does depend on the condition of the coils you are replacing and the vehicle. I first put on ZJ V8 coils on before the OME coils and got almost 2", more like 1-3/4". 'Course this was with a 2WD.

I ordered a surplus 97 V8 ZJ bar from Tapco International during one of their clearance sales on Ebay a couple of years ago. It was a NOS Mopar part, and it was about $25 including shipping from FL. I had no idea what the diameter was when I ordered. I miked it when it came in; it was 1.25" in diameter, much beefier than my 7/8" OEM bar. The part number tag is still on it; I'll take a peek and see what else it fits tomorrow. :D

They will give you 1"-2" lift depending on the condition of existing coils. What sway bar end links are you using Rick? In mid-91 they lengthened them about an 1-1/2". I used these to prevent the sway bar ends bumping my new OME coils. EDIT: And yeah - you should have grabbed the ZJ V8 sway bar.

I also vote yea but only if they're both 4.10s. :D Rob, to change the subject: You list in your signature an ex '91 Comanche MJ 4.0L 4x4 AT Eliminator. Is this the one you sold to Alex? Was it a "real" Eliminator? 91 was the first year for the 4WD Eliminators.

Tractor Supply carries EZ-Slide.

HERE Shipping though........

Nice detailed writeup Tim. I've done this a lot too, but much prefer using an ammeter in series w. the positive cable so I can actually see what the amperage draw is, especially if there are multiple drawdown faults. Even most el cheapo multimeters have a 0-10A scale that works well. :D

Those are gaskets that fit on both sides of the stainless baffle plate and usually break apart when you remove the towers. I ruined two of them, so I re-used the other two and lightly coated the other side of the plate with copper RTV. Worked fine.