HOrnbrod

Rob, there's absolutely zero up/down or left/right play on the wheel when jacked up on the axle. I pre-loaded then torqued the wheel bearings to the FSM specs when I replaced the bearings and races. I've got less than 200 miles on it since changing everything out, so maybe it'll quit after the pads and rotors get fully seated? I'm hopin' anyhow............ I've read that condensation can cause rust on the rotors even overnight and cause squeeling when first run out in the morning, but it's never happened before in the eleven+ years I've had this thing.

My local post office seldom has the size boxes I need, especially the flat rate sizes that I use a lot. Usually you get the stuff within three days after ordering too. Good deal! I have to give the USPS credit. They have really cleaned up their act lately and are much more efficient than before. :D

I'm dragging this thread back up because my problem persists - squeeling brakes after sitting overnight. Replaced rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, and inner/outer wheel bearings and seal. No scoring on the old rotors. Re-bled the system, have a nice firm brake pedal with no fade or pulling. Everything's lubed w. brake grease (back of the pads, caliper contact points, etc.) as it should be according to the FSM. It's not bad squeeling, just aggravating. It only squeels after sitting overnight when tapping the brakes backing out of the garage the first 5-6 times, then about the first 4-5 times when going forward. After less than a block, no more squeel for the rest of the day. Oh, and it's still the LF side, same as it was when this all started. Anyone have any ideas? It's driving me nuts. :nuts:

If only you were closer, AND the truck wasn't from up Nawth, I'd be really interested. LWB HO Eliminators are very rare animals. :D

In an effort to increase sagging sales, Mopar offered LWB Eliminators in 91-92.

Dayem sure does. Best looking install I've seen. Now if someone could figure out a way to do this on the HO cluster and look as nice as this, I'd be a happy man. Excellent work mate. :cheers:

118

Thanks for sharing that special moment kids.

Here's a nicely done example: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17446&p=177196&hilit=stacks#p177196

One of the million "how do you know you're a redneck" question answers: Because you have a gun rack in the rear window. Guess I'm a redneck also; I carry my fishing rods there too. :cheers:

USS Truxtun (DDG 103)

Yes, for sure it sounds like a bad rheostat on the headlight switch. Sometimes if the rheostat is never turned (exercised) for years, deposits build up between the pot windings and the slider contact and it will only work in one position, and then not all the time. Pull the switch and check it for an obvious broken rheostat wire. If it looks okay douche it down well with contact cleaner and turn the pot back and forth to clean it all up. Then verify all connectivity thru the switch on the bench with your ohmeter before re-installing. The blinker light bulb sockets have a habit of going bad on our rigs, shorting internally. You can find replacements in the HELP! section of most auto parts chain stores; I believe it's the Ford sockets that work well.

The thermostat is one item I always get from the dealer. :cheers:

Agree it sounds like a heat soak issue, but just what's heat soaking and dying is - :hmm: . That was pretty common problem in the later HOs, especially w. the 99+ intake heating up the #3 injector, and there were various heat shields addressed by various Mopar TSPs to "cure" this problem. A quick simple troubleshooting technique you might try would be to shim up the rear of your hood an inch or so just to see if the resulting lowering of the underhood temp might help make it better. At least this could make it certain that the engine cut off is in fact caused by excess heat buildup on a component. Is it worse in the summer Eagle?

:thumbsup: I reused my gasket too when I put in the old style slider in. Worked great.

#83 Red Bull NASCAR Toyota

This thread should answer all your questions: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14741&hilit=clip+fenders&start=0

I had a clogged cat in my pre-stroker MJ. It would overheat going up long grades and in traffic. Hopefully a new one will cure your problem.

Yep. Still hangin' with the camels in the UAE. He's on the strokers forum and the Hesco forum quite a bit. Great guy. :D

Joe, Did this running hot start about the same time your muffler got clogged? Chances are if the muffler was clogged, the cat is too and can cause you to run hot.

I would not; as you know it's a submersible pump and uses the fuel for cooling and lubrication. It should be checked with the ammeter in series under load running in it's normal circuit configuration. That way you know if the entire circuit is okay. :cheers:

Good advice from the Wildman. If all that fails, measure the fuel pump amp draw with a mulitmeter by disconnecting one lead from the ballast resistor and connecting your multimeter in series on the 0-10 amp scale between the wire you disconnected and the empty ballast resistor terminal. Start it up and read the pump current draw. It should read no more than 8 amps. If it does your pump is probably shorted internally and needs replacement.

Ah yes, the Cali Nazis. :roll: Forgot about them...........

I'm with you Joe - can't stand a LOUD exhaust. I went thru about three mufflers before I found the one I liked, a Walker Sound FX with dual outlets. Even that was too loud, so I replaced the cat with a cherry bomb. Perfect! I tried a Flowmaster 50 series, but with the headers it was way loud and droned so bad at around 2200 RPM it would rattle your teeth out. Also tried a Dynomax that was better but still droned badly.

Pimp? Pimp?? I resemble that remark. :yes: Thanks man. :cheers: