HOrnbrod

As stated before, the OEM MJ front/rear axle track dimension is identical. If you have excess weight hanging out over the rear axle wheel centerline, there's no way that can help handling. It just creates oversteer. Makes no sense at all to moi.

Too many moving parts. :nuts:

Hey man, you're dealing with the public, the customer is always right. If customers come in ready to pay you $$, anytime is a good time. If it annoys you because they don't always come when you are ready for them, suggest you find another line of work mate. Not trying to be an @$$, but that's the way it is. And I do understand; I did service work for about ten years; hated it. I got out of it..............

I think Jim hit the nail squarely on the head. :cheers:

Teraflex sells any part of the bar w/o buying the whole thing, including bushings. :D

That's why I like the Teraflex - no pulling off one end to adjust. :D

Wasn't for looks only. The extended rear track helped me out a lot w. body roll hauling the camper around. Even w. a 3/8" hubcentric spacer I'd still install longer studs. When I put in my rear disk brakes, the Ford Explorer backing plate added an extra 1/4", so I got some 3/8" longer studs to compensate. Six full lugnut turns is the minimum, and I couldn't get that w. just the extra 1/4".

Damn, what a shame. Here's an MJ with a whole lot worse rollover roof damage. The owner just welded in a new top and rear cab assembly from the firewall back - good as new now. :D Image Not Found

Ugh, then you better invest in some longer wheel studs sport............

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13578&hilit=hubcentric

Don't know if this will help since you have an 86 (not sure on 86's), but the 87+ MJ/XJ and even the ZJs all use the same drag link. That's the only front end steering part I didn't upgrade since I could find no upgrade. :D

That's all good, but it's the Dukies year. :D Looks like the West Coast is doing their usual el-foldo act. WV will make short order of Washington, but you gotta admire little St. Mary's in Cali though for making the sweet sixteen. :yes:

Yep. Watched that game. The Ivy League schools don't get the "talent" because of the entrance requirements, so they have to play "old school" basketball, i.e. pick and rolls, pass and runs, etc. and execute them perfectly for the entire game. Occasionally they win a game or two. :D

The greed of some of these sellers never ceases to amaze. :eek:

Good luck tomorrow, but they gonna need Jerry West to suit up to advance. :cheers:

Hell of an upset. :eek: I was picking Kansas to win the whole thing. Gotta go with the Dukies now, or maybe Northern Iowa, where ever that is. Sure wish 'Bama could play basketball as well as the football team. :D And yeah, it's good to have a Cinderella in the NCAAs.

Pedantry - had to look that one up Eagle. :cheers: Very true, axle has shifted off center because of lift, but I'd still like to see a pic of the adjustment on his trackbar.

I'd sure like to see a pic of your adjustable track bar if possible. ?

Don't bet the farm on the rear axle tag. It's best to verify the ratio by the stampings on the r/p gears or physically count the teeth on each and divide. :cheers:

Paul, what bothers me about this site is that they don't give p/n's, flow rates, and the pressure rating of the injectors. I know exactly what I want (refubished Mopar grey top 96-99 p/n 53030778, 23.2 lb/hr @ 49psi). Their site lists one injector for like 88-92 Jeeps. Not hardly true. I don't want to go thru another tuning process for the stroker. :(

Like the below? They are just fake plastic ornaments.

No we are not. Could care less in fact. Pete's giving you some good advice. If you choose to ignore it, and most of the other advice you have received, just end this thread. Stick the 3.07 in and live happily ever after.

Axle housing stamped numbers or tags don't mean squat if the gears have been changed. To be absolutely sure: Pull cover, count the freeking teeth on the ring and pinion, divide. No offense mate. :cheers:

I was just thinking the same thing............... Pull cover, count the freeking teeth on the ring and pinion, divide.

AFAIK, Ford never used an alloy RWD driveshaft w. 1310 u-joints. Your best bets for a lightweight shaft are all GM. The early (94 and below 1st generation models; the later models had 2-piece shafts) S10s or S15s, or the 93-94 up Chev pickups or Suburbans. All will have to be shortened for your MJ and may or may not need new yokes depending on spline count and u-joints. There's no stock lightweight bolt-in driveshaft available for the MJ that will not require modifications that I have found.