HOrnbrod

:thumbsup: Please do.

Yes I do. :D If you have the ability to replace the starter, you certainly can pop the end piece off and check out the brushes. There's nothing to lose, right? :cheers:

Dirty water and sediment getting in there could have frozen the starter brushes. Before buying a new one I'd pull it and take it apart to inspect the brushes. Replace them while you're in there, clean it all up with contact cleaner, then bench test. It will probably be all right. :cheers:

Yep. 3.73 is excellent for up to 31" tires, and it's rare, almost as rare as the 4.10, that I'd prefer. It's also at the carrier cutoff so pretty easy to go lower if you want. I'd be all over that thing if it was local. :cheers:

Here's an excellent forum to do your research: http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/ I like the ol' Benz 5-banger if I were to do it. :cheers:

The 91 FSM shows the wire gauges for all the circuits too. 16AWG for the stock harness headlamps, and the entire headlamp load runs through the switch. :ack: I just used it to trigger the HI and LOW relays and 12AWG for the power leads.

The fuel pump is getting louder because you bypassed the ballast resistor. It's a load resistor, and it's purpose is reduce the voltage to the pump after starting to prolong the lifespan of the pump and to reduce noise by lowering the operating voltage. Sure you can bypass it; but it's not a good not a good idea. It may last or may not depending on corrosion at any power or ground splice/connector joint in the fuel pump circuit. Check all these points for corrosion, clean them up, and if the pump is still noisy, get a new 1.3 ohm ballast resistor, and replace it. Unless you enjoy replacing fuel pumps prematurely. :ack:

Are you blind? :rotf: Item 53: Again: http://www.trailquest.com/DriveTrain/Engine_AMC_242.shtml 53 Cushion Assembly with Peugeot BA10/5 Transmission 1987-90 83505567 $67.95

Yes, but you can get it cheaper elsewhere, like here: http://www.trailquest.com/DriveTrain/Engine_AMC_242.shtml Do a search for p/n 83505567.

Junkyard, or from Lokar.

Yep. I'm in Arab. :D

Yep, worked fine for me too Fiat. Unfortunately for the brethren up North it don't. :???:

Which bolt holes are broken danboone5 from Rainsville? Pump or reservoir? Pics would be helpful..........

Just replace your stuck MJ e-brake cables (get new ones from RockAuto or many other sources), then use the generic Ford clevis to attach them to the 8.8 e-brake lever. Slot the Ford clevis, open it up enough to insert the MJ e-brake cable end, squeeze it shut, then adjust as required. There's plenty of adjustment available at the bellcrank where the left and right cable join. Works well. Image Not Found

Yes you did. :needpics:

Agree w. an HO swap (OBDI only), but that $750 for the rather high mileage (if it's true) 93 XJ is a bit high price I think here. I doubt the seller will get those $$ in that condition. Offer him half that, then sit back. $450 tops if/when he gets back, cause it's 4WD w. 5-speed. But donor HO XJs are plentiful if you're patient. :cheers:

You should slide over there and ask the seller for a test ride before buying. Hopefully it has an e-starter or a push truck. That thing could be he11 to kick start. :eek: :cheers:

Crazy fast. A street legal land speed record holder. Freaking amazing. Do you know the seller Rob? Can't imagine the $$ wrapped up in this toy. :cheers:

On Ebay. $53K+ and the reserve is not met. HERE

Do a search for p/n 83504447. Here's an example: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=83504447

Me too. But I'd also probably have the Moabs on my truck but the inboard center section is narrower than the Ravines and wouldn't clear my rear disk calipers. But I'm happy with the Ravines. :cheers:

Much ado about a clacking sound on this thread. :dunno: I too have an annoying clacking sound lately in my MJ, but only when my wife is riding in it. :cheers:

Thanks for the link Wahoo - I'd never seen that humongeous build thread. It was worth digging thru 40 pages of gushing just to finally see some pics of this most beautiful MJ. Super job. :cheers:

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm

That sounds like a similar setup as the hood release cable/lever/bellcrank kluge setup. We all know how reliable that is. :eek: I guess they fixed it when the HOs came out; it's just one continuous cable from the gas pedal to the intake manifold where the outer shield terminates on a fixed bracket, then the inner cable continues on the the throttle body. Whole lot less moving parts, the cable's shielded, and less room for error. Maybe it could be adapted t the Renix? Unless the bellcrank is necessary to move something else as is usually the case?