HOrnbrod

No, the wheel bearings do not need to be pressed in. They (inner and outer) come with the races, and you'll need to tap them out with a brass punch and drive them in with an appropriate socket. Not a real tight fit though. Get new seals too. Hitches appear on Ebay but rarely now. They are no longer made, some guys have been fabbing their own though. Might try a search here........

Depends on the date of manufacture. From the parts manual: ROTOR, Brake 52007710....1992....(Up To 2-10-92, One piece hub/rotor) 52008264....1992....(After 2-10-92, Separate rotor/hub)

Wheel bearings.

Pete; What's the width and bolt pattern for the mid 90s v6 Isuzu D44? EDIT: Never mind, found out. It's 1.5 inches narrower and has 6-lug axles. Could work with spacers and redrilling the axles.

I found the best adjustment for me was with the arm slightly UP from the axle, maybe 10-20 degrees. :cheers:

I too prefer the 10-blade electric fans from the 1997+ XJs as they pass more average CFM than the mechanical fan, but two of them (one replacing the mechanical fan). You wire them as both sensor controlled, but with an override switch in case of sensor failure. No worries in any conditions. Easy to do in an HO.

:cheers:

Impossible to answer. The viscious clutch is controlled by a bi-metallic sensor that reacts to the ambient air temperature from the sensor heat exchangers. The CFM is most (if the clutch is operating correctly) when the sensor detects the most heat. If I had to guess and the mechanical fan was "hard wired" w/o a clutch, I say it moves maybe 1500 CFM tops. But this loads the engine if there is no duty cycle. I prefer two electric fans. :cheers:

That ground wire on the compressor doesn't look like factory wiring to me. The A/C compressor is grounded via the engine negative mains cables. One on the bell housing; the other from a braided strap from the firewall to a head bolt stud.

Plagiarizer. :waving:

Those are for a 5" bolt pattern. I have Ravine wheels w. the stock 4.5" bolt pattern so I used these spacers: http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2286/.f

Excellent Rob! Haven't seen that before... :rotf:

X2.

Excellent. :thumbsup: Most do not recognize Scotty in his slim and trim younger days.

You gotta be a Trekkie wyk. :cheers: Who's the guy in the back row, left?

Nope, I didn't. But happy you have brakes again. :clapping:

They changed the length around 1992. The old end links are 7-1/4" long; the newer ones are 8-1/4" long, p/n S-18162 at AZ.

Hey Virginia - did you have to turn your old one in? If not, you can play with it at your leisure and have a spare for next time. :cheers:

The pressure is supposed to drop immediately when you crack the bleed screw. Pump up, hold, crack the bleed screw while your helper is applying pressure to the brake pedal, brake pedal goes to the floor, tighten bleed screw before releasing the pedal. Repeat until all air is expelled. Put a clear hose on the bleed screw and immerse the other end in a clear jar so you can see the air coming out and the immersion will prevent air from being sucked back. If pressure holds with the bleed screw (nipple?) open, this is not good. It means the bleed screw is clogged. Clean it out or replace it. Replace/unclog all the bleed screws, then start from scratch. Start with the RR wheel and work your way to the M/C.

No, can't say I've heard of stock offset Jeep wheels rubbing the frame unless the tires are real wide. You're not off-roading your beautiful truck are you Matt? I think I bought mine here: http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/spidertrax-wheel-spacer-jeep-xjyj-whs002-p-943.html but not absolutely sure. They are 1.25" wide and even the rears out with the fronts. You might want to shop around.

Like Lead says there are several possible causes, but normally if you can shift an AW4 manually but it will not shift by itself it's TCU related. Either a bad module or the inline fuse powering it is blown.

SCOOOOOOOOOOOORE!!! :cheers: Nice color too.

Many GM steering wheels use the identical horn internals as the MJ steering wheels. Do a search on Ebay for NOS GM steering wheel parts, particularly the two pressure plates, the grounding contact rod, spring, and insulator, and, and the pressure plate insulators. Intermittent problems usually occur when the contact rod tip is corroded where it presses against the pressure plate when you attempt to blow the horn. I have a lot f this stuff if you need........

What year is it? Renix era? EDIT: Not abnormal for a Renix. You might look at the distributor cap for corrosion on the rotor contacts, plugs and boots are tight, plug wires, the normal HV ignition stuff.

Yes, know what you are saying. I ended up using hub and wheel centric spacers from SpiderTrak. Though long and hard about it, and couldn't see anything structurally detrimental, as these spacers are machined for our axle hubs and wheels, and fit like a glove. I did add longer axle studs though to make up for the thickness of the disk brake backing plates. With stock drum brakes this is not needed as the spacer studs are longer than the stock axle studs. Absolutely no problems with them, and it allowed me to keep the regulation Jeep Ravine wheels that I like and that cleared my rear Explorer disk calipers w/o taking material off the calipers.