HOrnbrod

Aftermarket (read "offshore") trackbar bushing ID sizes vary considerably. Many require drilling out the frame mount to fit the larger trackbar bush ID. And they don't tell you that. So you have two options: 1: Get the correct OEM trackbar or equivalent that the bush ID is the same as the mounting bracket, or 2: get the metric or SAE correct bolt size to fit tightly fit your aftermarket trackbar bush then drill out the mounting bracket to fit the new bolt. #2 is not an option for moi. :D

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Check out this link, search around, lots of good info from guys that have actually done the Benz OM617 transplant into the XJ/MJ family. I'd love to try it. :cheers: http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/

:agree: But why don't you just compare the L & R caliper's p/n stamped on the inboard side between the two vehicles? If they are the same, you're golden. And you can cross reference the correct pads by using the caliper numbers.

Yes, I have one, switch + correct faceplate that you can plug your connector to. Shoot me a PM if you need it. But I agree w. all the above - you don't need the COMFORT setting, so you might as well just hardwire it. :D

HERE It plugs in at the connector at the base of the steering column. Just unplug the connector, and plug both ends into the module. Of course you need the wiper delay feature on the mulitfunction switch on the column too. :cheers:

Where's Bob? :dunno:

The bushings are meant to be snug, and are meant to be lubed before assembly (I use lithium chassis grease). Your wiper motor bearings may be shot. If so you'll have to pull the motor again and bench test it with a battery charger and see how many amps it draws. My HO motor has a thermister inside (or some other protective device) that shuts them down in case of excess current. I just replaced it with one from a late model XJ. :cheers:

Yep, I missed the previous posts - sorry. :roll: This has to be the worst case of MJ greed I've ever seen. It's probably a repaint left over from the Nashville floods awhile back.............

:nuts: HERE

S10 topper?

Here's a list of ethanol-free gas stations, but I see none for NJ. But you can always carry a couple of 5-gal cans in your travels and fill them up for the bike's use during winter. :cheers: http://pure-gas.org/

I've had carbed bikes constantly for years and never had to go through that crap. As long as you take them and ride in rain, shine, snow, or ice at least once a month for a 10 miles or so, you'll be okay. Fill up in the fall w. quality non-ethanol, apply some Stabil, and ride 'em. Starting them up in the garage ain't gonna work. But if you don't want to ride in nasty weather, pull the carb(s), drain completely, blow all the fuel out w. compressed air, then park it.

AFAIK, MJ sunroofs were a dealer installed option only, are not listed in the parts manual. There were however for the XJs, ZJs, and Wagoneers, both pop-ups and electrics that were true factory options. The MJ dealer installed sunroofs were 15" x 30" pop-up models. They were manufactured by CRL (CR Lawrence) and are still available, basically the same with some slight bracket and glass changes. I had mine installed by a local guy who installed them in many MJs for the local Jeep dealers back in the day. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14757&p=149155&hilit=crl#p149155

Same in 'Bama, no stickers or tests required - ever. That's why you see a lot of raggety-a$$ junkpiles running the roads. This is somewhat related as far as ripoffs. Every year when we re-register our vehicles, we get taxed for the book value of the vehicle (personal property tax) plus the normal registration fee. I don't know what "book" DMV uses, but it's normally higher than the KBB. Gets expensive when you have five vehicles. :headpop: Any other states do this?

What I meant was your quote about reliability and trouble-free. A mild stroker is no more less reliable or trouble-free than a normal 4.0. But since all you want to do is freshen up, not rebuild, and you're on a limited budget, you probably should skip it as it's a bit more expensive than rebuilding a stocker, but not by much. More bang for the buck. Stroker basics from Dino: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html

Bob; long overdue CONGRATS! You are the true anointed MJ Savior mate. :bowdown: All the MJs you have acquired throughout the years were nominated as MJsOTM as a group. All are worthy as you have saved them from the crusher and will pass their innards on to needy club members to make their rigs future award winners, or more importantly, to keep them rolling. :D Also the back channel conversations we have occasionally I truly enjoy. That reminds me: where is my dayem part! Got to rag you mate - wouldn't be right if I didn't. You the man. :cheers:

:shake: Double :shake: Care to elaborate?

Including injectors? :D

:agree: I'd never do it. I'm sure someone has a good used one laying around for less than $300. :yes:

Call your dealer and ask for part number 53030435, fuel rail for any 91-95 4.0L Jeep engine. If they can find one, expect to pay $400+. :eek: Suggest pulling one at the yard...................

Yes, Holt and also Woomera. Holt was nice, right on the ocean; Woomera sucked and was in the middle of nowhere near Alice Springs. :cheers:

What's really fun are the 2-lane "roundabouts" in Australia. In a two-lane roundabout, you keep to the left lane if you’re turning left or going straight ahead. You keep to the right lane if you’re turning right. You can also use the right lane in a two-lane roundabout if you’re going straight ahead. You use your left-turn signal for a left turn, the right-turn signal for a right turn. BUT if you’re turning right and are on the right lane, you must switch on your left-turn signal when exiting. Motorists must signal left, in every instance, whenever exiting either right or left from a roundabout. :nuts: This is great fun for a Yank used to driving on the right side of the road in a LHD country. I caused many near misses on the bloody roundabouts while there............

Stroke it! (w/o a cylinder bore unless it needs it) :cheers:

Have to be honest mate; it just doesn't look right on your great looking red truck. Soft toppers only look good on haze gray, olive drab, or camo painted trucks IMHO w. both the truck and topper w. the same paint scheme. I think if the topper was red like your truck it would be golden. :D And it looks like there's too much of a gap between the cab roof and the topper. It might look better painted semi black, but only if your truck were semi black too. I'm sure it's more convenient than a traditional hard topper, but I still don't like it. You asked for opinions. :brows: On your cab vents - what on the bottom? Side repeaters/reflectors?