HOrnbrod

FIRESTORM SUPER COMANCHE 45LC/.410 Single Shot Pistol

My axle is in the shop for regearing so I can not look at it. It's from an 89 MJ. Those of you that have one, if there is no drain plug, is there a boss there like in the pic that can be drilled and tapped to install a plug?

Do all Dana 44s have this drain plug? Specifically those used on the MJs? Image Not Found

Very cool. And is made by Ariel, who built the best bikes in the world back in the day. :cheers:

Yep, I know. That poor MJ had two freaking knuckleheads for owners, the last two. :nuts:

Distressing to watch. What a freaking knucklehead. :shake:

Interesting. Might be an easy way to obtain heat when the heater core blows up out or for auxiliary heat. Gotta be easier than replacing the heater core. :ack:

Bread van heater? Please explain.

Damn you! I was just about to go to bed. Sounds like a plan. :thumbsup: Now I got to have another one. :cheers:

Neither did I. However, I'll keep a sharper on you. :D

This thread is providing some good applications for substitute parts use for the dwindling MJ/XJ parts supply. Keep 'em coming. :cheers:

Friends don't let friends put IHC Scout front clips where they don't belong. Don't do it Rob. Do we need to have a Scout intervention? :fool:

I echo all the above Jim. We've all done stupid things when brainlock kicks in and/or we're in a hurry. And we'll all do plenty more as long as we :wrench:. Take a break for now, then keep on truckin'. :cheers:

Thought this might be interesting to see what MJ mods you have used from non-MJ vehicles on your MJs. I'm not talking about aftermarket parts/upgrades; I mean mods you've made to your rigs using actual parts from a non-MJ vehicle, like a Taurus fan, XJ/WJ master cylinder/booster, Ford 8.8 axle, etc. Here's my list: Buick steering wheel 2004 Wrangler power steering pump/brackets 2001 XJ intake manifold 1995 ZJ quick ratio steering gear box ZJ V8 sway bar, tie rod WJ lower control arms Mitsubishi CD player and sound system Mercedes W124 ambient temperature display Ford Explorer rear disk brakes 1996 XJ booster and master cylinder Porsche side marker lights Porsche 411 interior lights XJ bucket seats & console XJ power windows and mirrors Dual XJ electric fans Dodge 134A alternator

Most folks use an electronic aftermarket gauge as the sensor is 1/8" or 1/4" NPT and the sensor will screw right in the head. Your mechanical gauge probable has at least a 5/8" NPT sensor that's an inch long or so. That won't work in the thermostat housing either.

Looks like an Aussie roo bar.

Camber angle is fixed by the ball joints and can not be adjusted unless adjustable ball joints are installed.

From the parts manual: TACHOMETER 83504458 1 6 Cyl. 1988/89 83504504 1 4 Cyl. 1988/89 83504503 1 Diesel 1988/89

Understand. Frankly, I'm not crazy about the cowl hood look, but nothing I've tried helps cooling better. It adds more real estate in the engine compartment, and the venting really lowers the underhood temps, especially in stuck traffic. Well, you have a ways to go before you're ready for that. :cheers:

Know you're still test fitting Bo, but am curious about your cooling plan. That mech fan look like it really sticks out. Are you going dual electric fans w. a custom radiator? Cowl hood would be good too for topside room. :cheers: Outstanding work as is your norm.

:agree: I rather buy a used Wayne, Ingersoll Rand, Champion, or Quincy compressor than the stuff they are fabbing "offshore" now. I had a 2-stage vertical 220V Wayne I pulled from a closed Sunoco station years ago, used it for ten years. Gave it to my son and he's used it for 20 years, and it's still going strong. And he won't give it back! Ingrate. :fs1: Can't blame him though. :cheers:

Just saw this thread and have to chime in. I've calibrated many tachs (as well as the rest of the cluster gauges) and Eagle is right; in order for a 6-cylinder tach to read correct engine RPMs in a 4-cylinder, it must be recalibrated. Some tachs had a potentiometer, and some had to have a resistor changed. Superman, I believe you when you are saying the tach reads correctly; you would quickly see it was reading low if you used a 6-cyl tach uncaled in your 4-cyl. So the only reason I see this tach reading correctly in your application is that someone previously replaced the original 6-cyl tach mistakenly with a donor 4-cyl tach in the cluster you used. It happens. Do you happen to know the tach part number in the cluster you used? It will be printed on the board and I can ID it with the part number. :cheers:

:agree: As far as the price for the Ebay axles - way too much for those in that condition. And if you regear to 4.10 which you should with those tires, the D44 will require a new carrier too.

The caliper sliders are 5mm or 6mm Allen bolts. To change the pads on a 2WD first use a C-clamp to compress the caliper pistons slightly, remove the two sliding rods, then slide the caliper off the rotor. To remove the pads, remove the two anti-squeal clips on the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different; one is inboard and the other is outboard, so mark them. Compare the brake pad material shape with the new ones so they don't get reversed. They WILL go in reversed and you WILL be plagued with squealing. Ask me how I know. :oops:

Same here Sam. The 2500 junk could look good on an MJ, but only if you used one of your chickens for a hood ornament. :yes: