HOrnbrod

Install a Hesco aluminum head with Yella Terra roller rockers on my stroker. :drool:

You can use a heavy duty u-bolt style yoke like below. Much stronger than the standard yoke and just a few $$ more. Used one of these when I had to replace the pinion seal on the D44, along with greasable u-joints.

Damn you Brett, now you have me thinking of the 97+ front end again. Your 92 looks so nice with it, I'll just have to find a donor now. With a chrome grill of course. :D You're bringing this beauty back the right way with the frame-off restoration, well, as close as you can get with the Unibody, and building it to last for many many more years. Fantastic job mate! :cheers:

I just changed mine out last week. I have Ford Explorer disks on mine, and used new stock cables with a Ford clevis to attach to the wheel. The pic below is with the old cables. The stock cables were plenty long enough for my 3" lift and should be okay for another couple of inches. Not sure the Ford clevis will work with the ZJ disks or not though. :dunno:

The two rear cables to the wheels are the same for both LWB and SWB. The single cable from the turnbuckle going forward is WB specific.

With dimensions:

This help? :cheers:

I've never used anti-seize on wheel studs for 40 years and never broken a wheel stud either. Guess it depends where you line and how often you take the wheels off. I use it religiously on spark plugs though. "the technician" hits it with a shop-strength air impact wrench it just shears off the stud :yes: Probably a "certified" technician too. The olde saving time makes $$ syndrome.

You have the correct GM shackles; that's just how they fit. To use them you can compress them down by tightening the reciever end bolts and bending them in :ack: or use washer shims. Either way it's not a correct fit. Spring for a geasable set of shackles specifically made for the MJ/XJ, like these from Teraflex:

Great job Ed. You are a credit to the forum, a sharp guy and now realize that education is mandatory nowadays. :cheers: Sounds like it took you awhile to wake up as it did with me. This is a good example for you young guys to not waste years of your life before education realization sets in. :smart:

There were wire color changes in 1991; corrected table below: Constant 12V+ PINK Switched 12V+ Purple/White Ground Black Illumination (-) BLUE/RED Illumination (+) ORANGE/BLACK POWER Antenna BLUE/RED Front Speakers 5 1/4" Doors Left Front (+) GREEN Left Front (-) BROWN/RED Right Front (+) VIOLET Right Front (-) Brown/Red Rear Speakers 4" x 6" Side Panels Left Rear (+) BROWN/YELLOW Left Rear (-) BLUE/ORANGE Right Rear (+) BLUE/WHITE Right Rear (-) BLUE/BROWN

Good info Tom. I've always used jam nuts on new axle u-bolts after torquing to prevent any possible hi-nut loosening. Recommend?

Correct. You can even reuse the 1/2" D35 stock u-bolts if you need to as long as they are fairly new and in good shape. The D44s came with 9/16" u-bolts. This is absolutely false. NEVER re-use U-bolts. They cost a couple bucks, and its a safety issue. Lighten up man. Jeesh. I reused mine as I did not have new ones when I put the new axle axle in and they were only six months old. Got a new 9/16" set from Hell Creek and installed shortly after. I'm saying only you CAN reuse the D35 if you have to in a pinch, as they will fit the D44. And no, I don't recommend it.

Correct. You can even reuse the 1/2" D35 stock u-bolts if you need to as long as they are fairly new and in good shape. The D44s came with 9/16" u-bolts. Also keep in mind you can use an AMC20 rear axle from an 86 MJ, also a bolt-in. I found plenty of those in my AO but none in the ration I wanted.

Why? I was running hotter with the stock pump, especially sitting in traffic w. 100+ degree temps. Short track modified stock cars don't sit in traffic that much. Put the Hesco hi-flow pump in, along with junking the POS mechanical fan for dual electrics, and no more problems in the traffic. No offense Flint, but it doesn't really matter what you consider a performance part. They have sold thousands of these pumps and it's a must on a built stroker; browse the stroker forums. I doubt it would do anything for a stock engine. One of the big selling points for Hesco is that they DO stand behind their products. That's why they sell more JeeP go fast stuff than anyone else, in spite of their normally higher prices. To the OP, call Hesco, talk to Bennie, or better yet Lee. Explain clearly what happened. Done that? My stroker is a mild build, .030 overbore and a mild grind cam. Very streetable and no more maintenance than a stock engine. I do 3K oil changes and use a high zinc content oil. I've done all the bolt-on mods to allow it to suck and blow better: 99 intake manifold, dual 2.5" exhaust, Unichip, etc. Use the same plugs as the stock engine only one step colder. I have done several dyno runs after all major mods, and consider it mandatory to determine the overall drive train health. It's a very reliable engine (over 30K on it now) and surprises a lot of folks when they realize it's just an inline six. Hesco gets flamed mainly by fools who spend a lot of money for their products, bolt it on their NA engine and then expect a miracle to happen to their junk. Doesn't work that way; you need the whole package. Gotta do your homework on the stroker forums to find out what works and is questionable. :cheers:

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-doors/replacement-door-parts/cherokee-xj-front.htm

I have a Hesco high flow water pump and t-stat housing along with a Hesco stroker crate engine for over four years now and zero problems with anything. Never heard of anyone else having problems either. :dunno: Hesco does not warranty anything they consider a "performance" part and have always had this policy.

I agree with Eagle and I wouldn't drill a new hole in the mount (not much room there). But if you have to cheap out, here's a link to show you how it's done right w/o ruining your track bar mount. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoTrackbar.htm I have the same lift (3") as yours and used a Teraflex adj. track bar because it doesn't require knocking one end loose to adjust. http://www.teraflex.biz/front-adjustable-trackbar.html

Done shipmate. C'mon guys, take the to time write and try and save JV. I don't even wheel, but I realize the importance of this effort. If this public land goes away, it marks the beginning of the end for wheeling as we know it. At least make an effort. :cheers:

In that case I'll write a letter Bo. :cheers:

Looks like a D35 to me but I've never seen a bracket like that one for the brake load sensing valve.

Nope not here. Tyres are rubber and rims are metal. Chrome rims are usually alloy. Found some good alloy wheel sets by searching locally for chrome rims. Maybe you're thinking of the ultimate redneck land, Mississippi? Or Wisconsin? :yes:

Haven't been following this since last year Bo. You saying the Marines don't need the land for training?

Rim is redneck for wheel.

This stuff has been "scored" and posted many times before. Basically.