HOrnbrod

:agree: Do both and the OEM starter will do just fine. Not only the starter will benefit, the entire electrical system will be more efficient, require less amperage draw for each circuit, and lower the overall load on your alternator and battery. He makes good stuff. :D

Those springs are for sure not factory MT springs. Look like a custom set someone had made up. I know Deaver makes a heavy duty MJ spring with a similar leaf layout as yours, probably others too. But they were too expensive for me. :eek:

The three thin leafs look pretty rough. Is the main leaf intact?

Yes, it does suck. Big time.

Barney Fife is entombed in the trunk of that Ford black and white.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25953&hilit=leather+seats&start=0

They are hard to find in good shape. My local yard had a set a few years back from a XJ Limited, power/leather, just like those. I bolted one in and it was to high for me. It sat about two inches taller than my standard Larado XJ buckets. If you're about 5' tall they might work for you though. :D

W/o an A/F meter installed, there's really no way to accurately measure the ratio. Install one, then if you are in fact running lean, you can richen it up either by an adjustable FP regulator, or build an adjustable MAP, or both. As for myself, I use just the Hesco adj. regulator because the adj. MAP mostly affects the mixture only at near and up to WOT. The regulator affects the mixture over the entire power band.

:agree: Adjustable ball joints will only correct up to 1-1/2* of camber IIRC. It appears you have a lot more offset than that. Me thinks your axle is bent. Been doing any jumping lately?

No, what vaquaro is referring to is the multifunction switch inside the column, that's where the wiper stalk plugs into. There are many how-to writeups for this around. It's the same Saginaw column as the pre-airbag GM stuff used. But pull the wiper delay module first (if you have one) as Pete says. http://buickperformance.com/tiltsteeringcolumnwobble.htm

Interesting Bo. Also had a 96 XJ I bought new from AAFES in Guam on which I tried it several times with nada result. :dunno: Not worth pursuing the why.............

It's a good day when you learn something - gracias. I said that because I tried it on my 01 XJ and it didn't work. Nothing happened. :dunno: But this old dog is never too old to learn, and my next six HLs are dedicated to you Rob. :cheers:

That's for OBDI only.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13087&hilit=swaps

Gus loves plastic bottles. Keeps him busy for hours. He knows how to unscrew the top now. :D

Copied from my earlier post: The 27-spline GM Turbo 350 yokes LIKE THIS ONE work fine too. They use the Spicer 1310 u-joints and you can get them up to 7" long and cut them off to whatever length you require. The inner yoke may require grinding though on driveshafts with a higher operating angle. I used one on my LWB to gain an extra 1-1/2". It's fully splined too. :D

Doubt a bad ground at the tail lamp ground would pop that 30A fuse. That "Big green 30 amp fuse" in the PDC is the gateway to many subcircuits besides the fuel pump. The easiest way to troubleshoot this, if it blows again, and hopefully it will not, is to start tracing out the subcircuits serviced by this fuse one by one based on the FSM schematic. Sounds like an intermittent short in the harness or a bad/rotten connector. It's easy to fix it it it's a constant fuse blow, but the intermittent stuff is hard to find. The PDC harness passes closely to the fender well; unbolt the PDC, lift it up a bit, and eyeball for obvious skinned wires under there. But only if it blows again down the road.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17968&hilit=rod&start=15 Start with the lever parallel with the axle tube, then work from there.

I'm pretty sure they were different spring rates for the individual leafs. Here, near the bottom of the page, are the specs for the 3+2 (three thin leafs + two overload leafs) and the 4+1 MT springs. But you can use the regular spring leafs for replacement as long as the lengths are the same. Total payload will be different though. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21018&p=238108&hilit=metric+ton+spring#p238108

Set off a defogger bomb or two in every room, vacate the premises for six hours or so, then return. Every living insect should be dead or will have also vacated. Clean up carcasses. :cheers:

I got my first "cell" phone in the early 80's. It was a Motorola Iridium satellite phone that weighed about 20 lbs. in it's box with the charger and antenna. I was working for DoD installing military communications sites all over the Pacific theater in places so remote that nothing else worked. It used the Iridium satellite network to communicate and it worked anywhere in the world. The rates back then were over $2/minute for voice-only comms! The Iridium satellite network is still the most reliable way to communicate worldwide today.

Yes, mine were dealer installed as verified by the old gent I bought the truck from. He said it cost him about $100 to get them installed when he bought it new.

Know what you're saying. I like butt comfort and good handling too, but tire pressure is only one of many factors that affect this, so you have to experiment with your particular vehicle while staying within the mfg recommendation psi spans. For example, I ran BFG mud terrain tires and the best all-around pressure for them was 30psi. Their noise finally got to me and I got a good deal on some Michelin ATs, and they worked out best for me at 25psi. It all depends on how your suspension is set up, your local driving conditions, how/where you drive, what your comfort level is. Lots of variables........... There's no magic tire pressure recommendation for all.

They were on some 91-92 (mostly base) models and were dealer installed.