HOrnbrod

Gracias amigo. :cheers: Not so pretty now since I only wash it once a year and haven't waxed it in maybe four years. But it'll buff out when I get around to it. :yes:

:agree: Do what you want to your own rig, but if you are not skilled in the install (I'm not) get it done by a pro. The ones that leak were mostly installed by dummies trying to save a buck. MJ sunroofs were never a factory option, they were a dealer installed option. I had one put in a few years back by the same guy that did the installs for most of the the Southeastern US Jeep dealers since he was close by. No leaks, no problems, and I enjoy it in the summer. And to protect your bald head, if you have one, these are available.

I used a GM extended slip yoke like THIS ONE until I had a longer drive shaft made. Worked fine; 27-spline and 8" long. You can cut these to length.

Exactly. The easy way. There's no need I can see for the TDC compression set on the Mopar dizzy. If the rotor is pointing exactly as when pulled, it's right. There's no 180* out possibility like there was on some of the old GM distributors.

I'm replacing my original distributor with a new 94-99 unit because I'm getting a code 54 (Distributor sync pickup - Change sync sensor in distributor), which I'm hoping is the cause of the random engine shutdown I'm getting while driving. It was just a few $$ more than the sync pickup for the original distributor, so I figured I'd just get a whole new distributor. Also to replace the sync pickup on the old 91-93 unit, you have to pull it and completely disassemble it including the drive gear in order to replace the sync pickup. On the 94-99 unit you can change the pickup w/o pulling the dizzy - mo betta. Anyhow, I haven't changed a distributor in awhile and was reading over some how-to's to refresh. Everyone of them said rotate the engine to TDC on the compression stroke, mark the distributor body and rotor position, blah, blah. In the past all I did was mark the distributor shell, mark the rotor position, then install the new distributor back in the same way. The rotor only goes on one way, and the shell has to do the same for the alignment clamp bolt hole. So is it necessary to do it at TDC if I don't turn over the engine while changing the dizzy out? If so, why? I like doing things the easy way.

We're all heat pumps down here, mostly reliable year after year unless the power goes out. Have separate units for downstairs, upstairs, and a small one for the garage loft. Also a fireplace propane insert, for when it really gets cold, like below freezing. :yes:

Maybe. I sent him a question about the item complimenting his creative display of the headlamps, and received a reply thanking me and saying he had received a lot of feedback, and it was all good.

Knock sensor configurations near bottom of the page: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

Not sure. I was concentrating more on the rack than the bracket.

A seller on Ebay is selling these 7-1/2" H4 headlights for BMW and Ducati 2-lamp bikes. Very creative display. :yes: Image Not Found

I see, thanks. I've got all the AN stuff I need to dump the plastic fuel lines and quick-connectors and am going to redo mine like this. Much more secure. Pic courtesy of MJ Mike. :cheers:

Voted. Do we get a cut of the $20K if we vote and your guy wins?

:rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: Excellent! Helmet heads unite! Just noticed: Look at the hands.

Could you explain this further Jim?

One tip on the regulator rivet removal is to use the appropriate size drift punch (1/8" IIRC) to drive out the hardened steel rivet center pins before drilling. Makes it much easier. :thumbsup:

KS7 (sometimes PS7) is the paint code = Dark Silver Metallic. Started in 1991 on Jeeps.

I think this guy set a ridiculous reserve and was using Ebay to test the waters so to speak. Then will make a back channel deal with one of the high bidders or a back channel PM or call and avoid Ebay's 9% final value fees.

Have to agree with that. Good solid looking 92, love the color too. Only available on the 91-92 MJs.

Yes, if you can find a 1990 XJ and below fuel sender that fits the 1995 tank. http://comancheclub.com/topic/15047-ho-fuel-sending-unit/#p163162

Starting in 1991 the variable DC signal to the gas gage changed polarity. Just swapping the signal wires at the gage will not work; all it would is cause the gage to read full when empty and vice-versa. To make the gage work in the right direction you need to swap the output wire on the fuel sender potentiometer from one leg of the pot to the other. I don't even know if that terminal is accessible on the 95 sender, but it should be. You will have to pull the sender and look. Take a pic of the wire connections on the sender if you can.

What model year is the XJ tank & sender you put it the MJ?

They crashed an MJ into a convenience store to rob a video redemption machine? They were either AFU on something or should have done the dual diaphragm brake booster / master upgrade.

It will work for both, no problem.

So WD-40 is a paint remover too? Amazing product. Old non-detergent motor oil would have been better on the floors.

:agree: Good folks there.