HOrnbrod

Use Greyhound PackageXpress. I shipped one from AL to CA space available; only cost about $65 and took about four days. :thumbsup:

The HO CPS should read infinite resistance across pins A and B. But even if it does, this is no guarantee that the CPS is good. I have had two ohm out just fine but still had a cutting-off condition. The best test is to replace it. Also, I have read that if a CPS is bad, you can not display the fault codes from the ECU using the ignition key as a bad CPS can kill communications with the computer. I have never seen this, so :dunno: . In any event, I think your next logical step is to replace the CPS. But first swap out the ASD relay with one of the others if you haven't done this already as a bad ASD relay can cause a no-start condition.

:rotfl2:

Way to go Johnny. I love what Chip did to his 56 Ford F100 shop truck. I've always wondered what he would do if turned loose and motivated on an MJ. That would be special.

It's called the sync sensor and it can cause a non-spark condition. That's why I'm asking for him to check his codes because if it's bad it will trigger a fault code. But since he has a 92 the sensor won't be the disk you are referring to, that was used on the 1994 and up distributors. In order to change the sync sensor in the 93 and below models you have to pull the distributor. Good thinking though. :thumbsup:

You are one slick dude Ben. Take the wifey on a getaway trip to the Archer Bros. facility, shmooze around with Tommy Archer, and drive away with an MJ custom fiberglass racing hood. I call that getting er done. :yes:

I like those. I don't wheel, but the step is nice.

Good to see the long beds get some love. :thumbsup: I love your use of the Volvo axles. Sure would like to see an undercarriage shot. Well done!

So, people here are friendly, not a bunch of snobbish a$$rags. Jeepers wave at other Jeepers be it mild or wild or even an unbuilt JK. Bikers do the same, be it a Harley or an MZ. As I do too whichever Jeep or bike I'm driving or riding. Guess we haven't reached the higher levels of snobbishness yet of who or whom deserves a wave. Hope we never do. :nuts: EDIT: Forgot to Italicize.

Ignition switch positions: OFF, ON, RUN, START. Go to ON, then RUN, back to ON three times in succession. Leave in RUN on the 3rd cycle and observe the CEL on the left side of the cluster. Does it flash at all?

You can always pack few tablespoons of sawdust in the diff as an additive. Will quiet it down for maybe 10K miles and give you some time to find an 8.8, 8.25, or a D44 to replace it with. :thumbsup:

Found out the PDCs (Power Distribution Center, where all the relays/fuses are) are different in the 91 and 92 models. When you say there's no spark, how exactly did you determine this?

My all-time favorite pickup, the 1950 Stude half-ton.

This is correct. You may have a sticking gummed up meter movement which is common with these gauges. Try disconnecting the wire from the the sender, key ON, while someone observes the gauge. The needle should go smoothly and quickly full scale. Then touch the wire to ground. The needle should bottom out. If it does not, remove the gauge from the cluster and clean the movement with a quality electrical contact cleaner, like the stuff Radio Shack brand. Reinstall making sure the brass mounting nuts are screwed tightly against the foil and try again. This should get it operating correctly.

I've tried to make mine leak by blasting a strong hose stream form all angles - nada H2O enters. The only problem I had was the hinge pin broke once because I use them so much getting the air flow just right with the rear slider. Popped in a s/s rivet and no more problems. I think the key is to make sure the latch seals them tightly and getting all slop/play from the rotational contact points. When I have nothing better to do I occasionally use some Meguire's Natural Shine Rubber and Vinyl Protectant on all the rubber gaskets and weather strips to keep them clean and pliable. Good stuff.

:agree: I have never understood this constant whining about the vent windows. I have them in my 91 and they have never leaked H2O inside the cab or inner door frame, ever. Maybe the gasketry was improved in the HO years as so much else was. I also have A/C, but hardly ever use it unless the temp is 90* plus or it's raining like he!!. Prefer good air flow thru the cab, and nothing does it like the vents.

Hey Pat, glad to hear from you. Just asked Jeff about you the other day. Congrats on your new little girl and beating the Big C. :cheers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PIECE-BODY-SHIM-ASSORTMENT-BODY-ALIGNMENT-/400338335372?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d3606368c

:agree:

Looks like it part of the shift cable, specific to the 95. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gearshift-Cable-Crown-52078700-/140967383664?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d24f9270&vxp=mtr

Yeah, but it has "Awesome patina on the paint". :hmm: I don't understand why some people feel the need to use "amazing" and "awesome" over and over again.

Tell me you're not serious. Restore, don't destroy.

:rotfl2:

That's what I like, MJ hotrods. With lots of chrome and polish. To each his own. If I go offroad it's on two wheels. Although polishing your shaft like that does look like a whole lot of fun.

:yes: No, not yet. I'm pricing out a polished aluminum shaft though from PST.