HOrnbrod

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dBSH%2bN69302%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26N%3d599001%2b101988%2b50038%2b2038006

Check for codes? I had similar symptoms on my 91 (except no backfire) when the distributor sync sensor was going bad. It showed up as a code 54.

It's never a bother Jim-san. :thumbsup:

http://www.teamwrangler.com/parts/fuel-cooler-line-connector-kit-wrangler-1987-2004

Changed the oil and filter and lubed up the MJ. And since I enjoyed it so much, did the same to the Deere riding lawn mower. I couldn't stop, so did the same to the air compressor then the bike. Washed up, then went for a ride. On the bike, since it took the longest and she needed exercise. She runs good. :chillin: Image Not Found

It shouldn't, because most starting fluids are supposed to be sensor-safe. And the O2 sensor is on the exhaust header, so no problem. Just make sure the O2 sensor is plugged in, the connector contacts are clean, and the harness is not fried by the exhaust manifold.

It shouldn't have affected the regulator, but it's possible the suction applied by the pump running backwards may have broken the diaphragm. If all you have done is replace the fuel pump and disturbed nothing else (like the O2 sensor), I'd replace the regulator even though the pressure readings seem okay. Everything points to the regulator.

Did you drop the tank? Check the fuel return line for and blockages or crimps.

The MJ doesn't have a prop/combination valve up front in the stock configuration like the XJs do. It is simply a distribution block; no proportioning or brake biasing happens internally. If you had not installed the adjustable inline valve, full brake bias would be applied to the rear brakes since you bypassed the original load sensing proportioning valve. If plumbed and bled correctly, your setup is fine.

Opsled, a member here, had an MJ diesel for years and is very knowledgeable regarding these creatures. Hopefully he will chime in.

Read these threads and do the cooling system checks detailed within. No use rehashing this crap over and over and over. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38373-road-trip-a-little-hot/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/39639-cooling-system-testing/

Just talked to Nick last month. He got me an ADDCO MJ front sway bar at about 1/3 less than anywhere else I could find. He's doing fine and is still a great guy. Have known him for years too and was a lot of help finding the best header available at the time for Jeep I6 strokers.

Did you measure at the two outside MAP connector pins with your meter probes? Also have you had your distributor out of the engine since it last ran okay? Do you have a timing light so you can check the timing?

Très cool! :thumbsup:

Well, it's going into O/D so the torque converter lockup solenoid is okay. First thing I'd try is adjusting the throttle valve (TV) cable because it's free and easy to do. If no joy I'd try adjusting or replace the TCU as it can cause shifting problems with the AW4 if going bad.

Agree, maximum suckage on Rock Auto's commercials. But that's okay. A lower advertising budget = better parts discounts. Usually.

You are looking for the 5.0 VDC reference voltage generated by the ECU. Tolerance is ± .3 VDC. If the 5.0 VDC supply is out of tolerance, several HO sensors can be affected and throw multiple codes. When you measure, check the + purple wire with the negative meter probe on battery negative battery terminal first, then check again using the ground pin in the MAP connector.

:rotf: :rotf: Fully understand.

One of the tests for a fuel pump is a timed test that measures the volume of fuel pumped out of the Schrader valve on the rail. The minimum volume is given in the FSM. I've done this test a few times when troubleshooting fuel flow on various vehicles, watched the fuel flow into an open container, and never saw a pulsing flow like that. It looks like the pump isn't completely submerged and it's sucking air. How did the timing light test go?

Wish I did. How far away are you from Alamogordo? Delivery too! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-300TD-Turbo-Diesel-Engine-and-Transmission-W123-/321182258547?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac7f45573&vxp=mtr

I'd call Rubicon express with the shock p/n to be sure.

Some Bilstein shocks are mounted rod up, some rod down. Orientation depends on the logo and part number stamped on the shock body. According to Bilstein, the writing should be right-side-up and readable when mounted correctly and not upside-down, as in Bornindesert's Bilstein front shock pic above. Not any question on the front shocks as to orientation as the ends are different. Bilstein's 5100 series MJ rear shocks (both ends are eye ends) are mounted with the rod/boot on the bottom so you can read the writing on the shock.

It's still polishing a turd. I'd much rather do the Benz turbo OM617 diesel. Around 500 lbs, plentiful, been done many times, aftermarket support, and good to go 500K+ miles.

That's a lot of sensor faults. Check for the 5VDC MAP supply voltage across the 3-pin MAP connector w. IGN ON. Purple wire is +, light blue/black outer wire is ground.

:agree: JB Weld will work just fine. Shiny clean contact points, tightly crimp wires around pins, finish with a couple of JB dabs.