HOrnbrod

Count me in for a pair. Plain old natural aluminum is fine for me.

Good score! I had to fly up to PA and buy a whole truck to get mine. :yes: The long bed shells are hard to find. Luckily i was able to resell it for a lot more than I paid. Couple of things: 1. The door rubbers (below) are probably rotten and need replacing - mine were. I got them here: http://www.truckoutfittersplus.com/store/topper_parts_topper_door_accessories.htm The outer lower door rubber you can get anywhere, but the inner door bulb seal is unique to Leer shells as it's smaller in diameter. The above site is the only place I could find it. 2. The lock handle w. keys will be available at most local retailers who sell camper shells. Just bring your old one with you so you can match it up. 3. When you get ready to paint the shell, remove the rear window frames and while they are out, replace the screens. I brought the frames to a local glass shop because they had the correct rubber to roll into the channel for the screens. Good time to clean and/or get new glass cut also if needed. 4. Since I never plan on taking my shell off, I permanently mounted it by drilling through and using eye bolts that provide tie-down points inside when hauling stuff. 5. Your door struts are probably shot too if original. There's a part number on them so you can order the same ones. Makes it nice with new struts, 6. Think about mounting a roof rack later too. I got one from a Chevy Blazer at the junk yard and cut it down to fit. One from an XJ will work too, below: Image Not Found That's about all I can think of for now.........

What are you riding Jim? Still truckin the thumper cafe, at least once a week year round, but gave up on the interstates. It gets more uncomfortable though as time goes on. Time to get ordinary now. Am looking around for a nice comfortable upright BMW airhead. With a windshield......... Image Not Found

I'd agree with a set of MT rear springs. They will increase your payload from 1280 t0 1700 lb. capacity over stock springs. They also provide about 2" of lift, so a set of OME 630 front coils up front will level it all out. I'm not crazy about Monroe shocks, prefer OMEs or Bilsteins, but that's your choice. A thick beefy sway bar up front like the 28mm ADDCO #570 will really help control body roll too.

Let them enjoy it for a little while until Brady and company comes in and kicks their butts next week. Like they always do........ :yes:

I remember that happened to me also with some Laredo door panels when I had crank windows. I just use a heat gun to carefully bend the handle to clear the grille; it only took 1/4" or so. But a better solution is to install power windows. :yes:

OP Tim, sorry for stealing your thread, but figured it would help both of us. Found this writeup - it will answer your questions. It did for me. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38053-early-xj-hand-brake-in-mj/ Thanks for posting that Ed. :cheers:

Thanks Bo, but I want to mount the hand lever assembly as it's done in the XJ:

Thanks. I understand the cabling, no problem there, but the floor mounting of the hand brake lever assembly is what I have questions over. I have a full length console so I'll need the older 96 and below hand brake @$$'y. I also have two plates on the floor, pic below looking up. There are not pre-drilled holes for the hand brake, so what do I do? I can cut in some nutserts for the hand brake studs, but what about the floor plate(s)? I'm 2WD; no t-case. Will they help or just get in the way. Wish I still had one of my old XJs here so I wouldn't need to ask these dumb questions........

Do you remember where it was? I can't find it. :hmm:

Lookin' good Bob. Man, it's got to be tough with no garage to park that beauty in.

Not me either.

Read again.

First post from this guy. Zero information as to how his truck is set up as to a possible reason why his truck is lower in the front. Then everyone jumps in with clueless meaningless speculations. At least hold off the comments and arguments until the OP provides some pertinent info to at least warrant an educated guess. Until then, there is no need to speculate and spout random BS. Jeeesh..................

Depends on if the yoke was drilled out to 5/16" or 3/8". If 5/16" (as the kit U-bolts are) it should be okay; if 3/8" (which is what the odd-ball bolts look like), too much slop for the 5/16" U-bolts. But it may last for awhile..........

Actually the factory limited slip diffs for the D44s are plentiful and quite easy to find as they were used in a wide variety of foreign and US vehicles over two decades including Hondas, Isuzus, Scouts, Broncos, Jaguars; tons of others. And they are all interchangeable. I ended up using one from a Honda Passport. This LS diff was included free when I bought my MJ D44 axle, and even though I probably didn't have to, I threw in a new clutch set in it for $35. The factory limited slip is all I'll ever need, and makes for great burnouts when I want them. :yes: And works great in the wet and occasionally light snow we have down here.

What that video doesn't say is that these u-bolts won't work on an XJ/MJ D44. There's not enough room between the housing and the yoke to screw the nuts on. If you have a D35 this will work just fine - no problems. If you have a D44, you'll need to install the deeper u-bolt pinion yoke.

Wrong. The 904 was only used in the 86 models. The AW4 took it's place in 1987 for both the 4.0 and 2.5.

You can't solder aluminum terminals to copper cables except with a torch and lots of flux. Even then it will be a unreliable connection as corrosion will eventually result between the two dissimilar metals. This was proven beyond doubt back in the 60s and 70s when copper prices were crazy and contractors started using aluminum wire for new building construction. Lots of fires and lawsuits resulted. Agree with Jeep Driver; except crimping and soldering copper cable to copper lugs, then using brass clamps is even better.

^^ This x 2 mounted 180* apart.

I will never understand why AMC, then Chrysler, used relays for the factory fog/driving lamp load, but did not for the headlamps. Even the wire gauge was undersized for the length of the circuit run and amount of load. Probably for cost savings, as fog lamps were optional and not common while headlamps were on all XJs and MJs. Bastids..........

If the headlight switch melted, of course the head lamps caused the wire fire. The head lamp amp draw in combination with the corroded terminal connections and old crusty wiring that is. BTW gogmorgo, the headlight switch connector is available new. Don't use a used one. AIRTEX Part # 1P1190

Yep, that's one thing I really miss about up north - ice fishing. Some of my best memories were of going out with my grandfather as a kid to his shanty on Lake Champlain in his old Willys pickup fishing for lake trout and Northern pike. Funny thing is I never felt the cold back then.

Unless the customer asks for the Bosch multiport injectors or similar injectors specifically, Hesco builds all their strokers using OEM Mopar single port injectors, mostly the gray top 49 PSI p/n 53030778 injectors, then dial them in with an adjustable FP regulator. They outperform the multiport injectors on the dyno. And the multiport injectors are cheaper too. As far as economy and being more responsive, any noticeable improvement is probably because you have replaced your old dirty injectors with newer clean injectors. And from listening to your uncalibrated butt dyno too. :yes:

He must have been spoiled in Dallas then because he can't play in cold weather anymore. :yes: