HOrnbrod

Which fuse (s) is it blowing, and what is the amp rating?

Both answers above are correct, sort of. The table is basically useless since most of us do not have access to the specialized equipment necessary check resistance changes of coolant / ambient air temps throughout the sensor's range. The best way to check if the thermistors (temp-sensitive resistors) are operating is to remove them from the engine and check them at both ends of their range. For the coolant sensor, check resistance cold across the sensor tip and output terminal, then stick it in boiling water for a minute, then check again at the opposite extreme. The resistance should change roughly according to the table. For the air temp based MAT sensor, do the same thing except use a heat gun. Same same regarding the table vs. the resistance change. Highly inaccurate; basically these tests determine if the thermistor sensors are functioning or not. If no resistance changes from one extreme to the other, it's junk. If the resistance increases or decreases according to the table, the sensor is probably okay and the problem is in the wiring continuity. Make sense?

Felpro works You mean Velcro I assume?

Agree again. Did you get an angle finder to check caster L & R?

:agree: Yes it does with the straight-on pics.

Was too good to be true. For some reason it worked great after tightening it for the rest of the day, Then did the same thing the next day & Is dropping down to 12v when i put any sort of draw on it. Guess its time to get a new one. Not sure if i want to go with stock, Or get a higher amperage Bummer. well, if you have to change it, you might as well upgrade it to the ZJ (and others) 136A alternator. Get your alt checked first though to make sure it is definitely bad and not a ground or harness problem. I did the 136A conversion a few years ago and it fit right in w/o any grinding. Other install write-ups claim you had to grind the brackets a bit to get it in. Mine fit in okay, but it was a squeeze. The one you are looking for is the Nippon Denso 136A, externally regulated, p/n 56027913. It can be found in the following vehicles:

Ouch! I hate when something like happens. :oops: We've all done similar.......

This the guy? http://comancheclub.com/topic/36837-smsheadliner-discounts/

Yes, it's part of the engine harness and fastens on the back of the alt. Should have mentioned that.......... I hope that does it.

Before doing that, grab a front shot showing the whole track bar and drag link end-to-end with the wheels pointed straight ahead.

Think about it. If you use a drop Pitman arm to drop the draglink into parallel with the track bar, then dropped the track bar they wouldn't be parallel anymore. The picture below sure looks like a dropped Pitman arm, like maybe a 1" dropped arm from a ZJ, would really help line things up. But that may be only because of the parallax angle the picture was shot from. The pic should be from the front looking directly to the rear, not from the side.

Another rare option for MJ Exports to Egypt and Venezuela shown in the parts manual was a 24 VDC electrical system in the HO years. My question is, Why? :hmm: The only advantage I can see is that the wire size can be smaller because the load devices do not draw as much amperage at 24V.

Looking at your tiny avatar, your truck looks like a base model with a dealer installed "swoosh" decal. I have what looks like the same decal on my 91, and the original owner (I'm the second) verified it was a dealership option when he bought it. Would help if you posted up a larger pic. :thumbsup:

Nope, no Chief MJs in 1992. The VIN codes changed in 1991 (AMC to Chrysler), the 6th VIN digit indicates the trim series: 6th digit - series 1 Sport (S) 2 SE (base) 3 Pioneer & Islander 4 Sahara 5 Renegade, Grand & Laredo 6 Sport, Renegade & Eliminator 7 Limited & Country 8 Sport

Anyone can put decals on and call it what they want. BUT, the 8th character of the VIN number designates the original factory Gross Vehicle Weight / Trim Level package. For instance the below is for the 87-90 MJs as follows: F Comanche Base / Metric Ton 5001-6000 Lb. P Comanche Pioneer / 4001-5000 Lb. R Comanche Pioneer / Metric Ton 5001-6000 Lb. S Comanche Chief / 4001-5000 Lb. T Comanche Laredo / 4001-5000 Lb. U Comanche Laredo / Metric Ton 5001-6000 Lb. 1 Comanche Base / 4001-5000 Lb. 5 Comanche Eliminator / 4001-5000 Lb. Shamelessly stolen from Rob's web site: http://www.comanchemj.1hwy.com/custom3.html

I don't think that statements llike (fill in the blank) is the cause of death wobble, or (fill it in again) can not cause death wobble are ever correct. There is never a single cause or non-cause. Tire balance, loose track bar mount, bump steer, bad control arm bushings, caster angle, etc. etc. etc. are all contributors that combine to initiate and sustain the steering system oscillations known as death wobble. Usually when you find one symptom, if you look hard enough you'll find another.

Check the alternator connections themselves, especially the terminals that hold the little black module to the alt. Make sure they are clean and tight. And don't just look at the engine grounds, tighten them up. Dipstick, firewall, and block ground.

Some more here: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/

This thread might help. it's for the newer valve cover, but even those can develop blowby. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/4-0l-ccv-elbow-removal-guide-tips-write-up-733669/

I think 10%? Not sure though - I didn't set it up and don't remember who it was. maybe he'll chime in.........

See the two red lines on the pic above? You can see that the track bar and drag link are very close to parallel. Also, do you have an angle finder? Compare the right and left readings on the flat top of the upper ball joints. This will be very close to your actual caster reading. http://comancheclub.com/topic/39260-shadetree-caster/?hl=caster&do=findComment&comment=395104

Yeah Bo, thinking the same. You need the track bar and drag link as close to parallel as possible as in the pic below. You don't have a pic wide enough to see the total relationship. The geometry looks wrong from what I can see due to the dropped Pitman. That's actually a stock pitman arm, but wouldn't a drop pitman arm make them more parallel? As far as the axle side what would make them more parallel, I don't think I could turn the trackbar so the hump is facing up. You need a pic showing the whole drag link and track bar. Then in your favorite editor draw a straight line from the center of the mounting point to the center of the opposite mounting point. As above.

Yep. But we're all stuck in the 90s (and 80's) because we drive MJs. My truck gets me where I want to go, and my Canon Powershot takes good pictures. And I'm not changing either one.

For regular production models, most rare, especially in the US, would be the diesels. Next probably the 92 long bed Eliminators.

Very interesting. So you have front disk brakes on the rear?