HOrnbrod

Need the distance from the upper to lower shock mounts with the truck sitting on the ground, Front and rear. Image Not Found

Need to know the below too, probably after you get your springs on? Then measure the "at rest" distance between the rear and front shock mounting points and report back.

Exactly.

Here you go. Looks like these Ford shackles are of good quality. W/o knowing the exact dimensions you might need some shimming washers on the hanger end but it sure looks like these will work just fine.

You can read the codes directly off the 91-95 OBD1 diagnostic port by using a Chrysler adapter cable and a code reader that will interpret OBD1 codes. No more counting ignition key blinks needed. http://comancheclub.com/topic/46667-actron-obd1-scanner/?hl=actron

Measure your ride existing ride height using this method: http://comancheclub.com/topic/11098-how-to-measure-ride-hight/ Then measure the "at rest" distance between the rear and front shock mounting points and report back.

I put a Mitsubishi CD player in my truck but kept the original radio harness by using a reverse Jeep radio harness for my 91 and made a new harness for the Mitsu CD. I drew up a schematic with the 91 radio plug pinouts, functions, and wire colors. If you shoot me a PM with your email addy I'll send it to you. EDIT: I'll just post it up instead:

I know... I need a friend to come by and help so it hasn't happened yet. I did think that if the valve opened up the brake light would come on the indicator panel, so I assumed it wasn't opening so it wasn't the issue. I know there could be air in there so I need to bleed by opening the front bleeder on passenger side, then making sure the light comes on, then bleeding the rear, then closing the front passenger bleeder, then re-bleeding all 4 again. I didn't know about that when I bled it the first time and just did it regular way bleeding all 4. It could be the issue I guess, some air in there, so it presses down all the way and doesn't stop it. I am getting no light on the indicator panel though. I will see if I can find a buddy to come help me bleed them the right way. I've been through two different rear axles, booster/master upgrade, and converted the rears to disk brakes. All this stuff required new brake lines and full bleeding when done each time. I've never had to do the load sensing valve bleed procedure and have great brakes. I'm not saying this isn't your problem, but I doubt it. Maybe I've just been lucky.

http://www.paintscratch.com/touch_up_paint/Jeep/1987-Jeep-Comanche.html

Not close. The MAT Renix is the called the IAT (Intake Air Temp) in the HO and it doesn't look at all compatible. I'll dig all the temps vs. resistance out of the FSM later if needed, but from the HO IAT values I have below it doesn't look like it will work. The Renix junction box probably won't know the difference anyhow.....

What are the Renix MAT sensor values? I can provide the HO MAT values.............

I've seen a few MJ and the similar Wrangler parking brake assemblies with the pawl tip that's supposed to latch into the ratchet wheel completely rounded off along with the ratchet wheel teeth. No way any spring will help those mate. That's one good thing about auto trannies - you really don't need the parking brake. I use mine about once a year just to keep it from seizing up.

It's purpose was to save time and $$ on the assembly line.

http://www.allpar.com/stereo/eagle-premier-stereo/default.html Made in Japan for Chrysler.

CLICKY HERE. Posting this for a CC member. Rare truck.

Why are you posting to a thread from 2011?

Check both the motor and transmission mounts. They are probably the originals and the rubber's rotten and you're getting resonant vibes.

:clapping: It's my old Malibu SS. Now most everywhere you see a GM "SS" car in Alabama, it's preceded by the 'Bama A.

Close, but no cigar.

Hope they still have it in stock. If you can, learn how to use the Jeep parts manuals and search for the part you need using the factory part number (in this case 53001388). Using vehicle specs is usually tedious and inaccurate. You can find almost everything still exists somewhere if you look hard enough.

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That's an excellent Renix site. Since Renix MAT sensors are now unobtainium, substituting a CTS or HO MAT might be an option if there are close. I'd give it a shot. All it can do is make it run like crap. :yes:

^^ What's the p/n's for the MAT and CTS sensors the above table is referring to? There are many flavors for each with different temp vs. resistance values.

http://www.sbcoffroad.net/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=&products_id=9353