HOrnbrod

Si, it's a magnetic rotating switch.

No idea on the Renix, someone else will have to let you know. I know the 91 HOs have a mag (2-wire) and in 92 they changed to a Hall (3-wire), so maybe that helps.

I guess we'll never know................... :yes:

The resistor (what value?) would be installed in series with the crank signal output to the AEM to reduce it's amplitude. Doesn't AEM have detailed install instructions for the installation of their box on specific vehicles? Unichip provides wiring diagrams for every vehicle their chip can be used on. You might want to ask your questions over on the strokers forum - maybe someone with a Renix stroker is using the AEM FIC6. https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/index.php

Quick question, if a Renix stays in "open" loop because of bad o2 sensor or other cause, would there be any outwardly identifiable symptoms, ie poor fuel mileage (of course, mine has), fouled/ carbon plugs, hunting or surging....? You can install an A/F gauge, either a wide or narrow band, and watch the open-to-closed loop transition occur when starting a cold engine. It takes about 30 seconds as Cruiser says, maybe a bit longer when the ambient temp is real cold. The gauge constantly monitors the air/ fuel ratio under all driving conditions and immediately lets you know when the system has gone back to steady open loop like at WOT or when a component fails. It's a real handy tool to monitor the engine overall health.

This looks like an OBD1/OBD2 piggyback chip similar to the Unichip. Doubt it can play with the Renix system ECU. There's info on it in the strokers.com forum, but I don't see it being used on a Renix system.

I'm taking bets it's a 92 due to the PDC configuration...........

You have the HO oil filter sticker and the HO vacuum diagram on the firewall. If it was a swap it highly unlikely someone would swap over the aged stickers. The water pump is HO, the thermostat housing is HO, you have an HO truck. Plug your VIN into this decoder, it works for me: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/vindecoder.php

Assume you mean bearing, not bushing was bad? You could just replace the bearing on your old A/C delete metal pulley, or replace it with a new metal one. I'd stay away from plastic pulleys...... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-53002903/overview/make/jeep/model/cherokee http://www.ebay.com/itm/Idler-Pulley-Jeep-Wrangler-TJ-Cherokee-XJ-53002903-Crown-/291355228185 Genuine Mopar http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drive-Belt-Idler-Pulley-MOPAR-53002903-fits-00-01-Jeep-Cherokee-4-0L-L6-/282017147557?hash=item41a9882aa5:g:tD4AAOSwyQtVrx8P&vxp=mtr

The truck I am looking at in your pics is either a 91 or 92 MJ model. That's a good thing. Hopefully someone will chime in and run your VIN to verify the year of manufacture .........

Err, the starter motor and battery cables feeding it are below the oil filter..........

What year truck are we talking about? I just noticed your signature shows an 87, yet you are showing a 1991 PDC (Power Distribution Center) in your pics. The 87-90 Renix models didn't have a PDC. It also looks like an HO ECU beside it. Was your 87 converted to HO? The below is a pic of my 91 PDC, so the 60 fuse is correct for a 91. 92's are configured a bit differently.

Crap. I meant PO (Previous Owner) not OP. :dunce: My bad. I transpose things all the time.....

Pulled the shift cable off the tranny and rerouted it under the booster today - plenty of slack now. The hardest part of it was removing the transmission bracket off the cable. It's different than the older models. It has two "ears" have to be squeezed at the same time while pushing the bracket off the cable and it took awhile to figure it out. The procedure isn't detailed in the FSM. Also there is no adjustment on the shift cable at all. So the procedure for 91 and up column shift MJs (maybe the Renix models too - I don't know) when installing the bigger boosters is to route the cable under the booster when upgrading the front brakes. I took the time to measure the stock shift cable also. It's over an inch shorter end-to-end than the aftermarket replacement cables (55.5" vs. 57"), so that might have been the reason it was so tight.

I don't recall any TSB's regarding heat soak injector problems on the early HOs, but there were a couple on the 99's and up with the new intake manifold. THIS was one of them (download .pdf).

Thanks for the link, but that setup at the tranny end is a lot different than my 91 column shift shift cable. I'm going to try removing the shift cable from the tranny, pulling it up in the engine compartment, then rerouting it back down under the booster. Hopefully that will provide a bit more slack. It looks like it should..........

The easiest way to get the sway bar ends out of the coils is to relocate the sway bar forward. The below brackets will do that and move it forward about 1.5" to clear just fine. It won't help any pinion angle problems you may have though, if you do. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38552-sway-bar-relocation-brackets/?hl=synergy

The "OP" has a 60A maxi fuse jumpered to what looks like the fuel pump relay. Using a wire nut confirms the "OP" was/is an idiot. Whining noise from the ECU usually indicates it's pulling a hi-amp load it shouldn't be. First thing you should do is disconnect the battery and remove the PDC (that's the relay/fuse box where the jumper is). There is enough slack in the cables to partially flip it over and inspect the wiring underneath. Verify that there are no fried wires, relay sockets, fuse contacts, etc.

I have that one............. How about the auto trans and transfer case shift bezel lights? I know you don't have those. :) You are 100% correct Sir. Column shift and 2WD forever!

Details? Did you find you had more slack by running the cable under the booster?

I have that one.............

Thanks Adam. The fat booster certainly tightens up the cable. Wish I could find a cable an inch longer because it's just a metter of time before it breaks. I know we've discussed this before, but I can't figure a way to lengthen it with the bracketry either. :hmm:

This question is for those with a column shift AW4 MJ. The column shift cable on mine enters the engine compartment through a hole in the firewall up where the manual transmission slave would be (see pic) on the left side on the booster, then makes a reverse bend down to the tranny tunnel where it attaches to the cable shift bracket. My question is does the cable run over the booster or under the booster going to the tranny after it enters the engine compartment? I didn't remember how the cable was routed before I did the 95/96 master/booster swap, so I slid the booster under the shift cable when installing. Although it shifts fine out of PARK into DRIVE or REVERSE, the cable seems much too tight with the larger circumference booster. I'm urious if I could get a bit more slack by running the cable under the booster instead of over the top.

Probably caused from long term ethanol rot.

:yes: Thanks Fred, I have some spares. I never lose fasteners when working on my rig, except when fooling with the lower dash. I just don't get it.............. Also there's another unused 2-pin connector coming out of the dash harness near the ashtray lamp connector. I have no idea what that's for.