HOrnbrod

Love the 124 CE's. Had a couple of them, and they have timeless classic styling. Have been looking for a nice W124 500E for years. There aren't very many here, and those that exist and are decent are usually super expensive. Did Benz ever sell a 500 in the coupe 2-door version in Germany?

Start a new topic. :thumbsup:

The p/n is J4007314 (84-96 2.5), but don't think that'll help you much as they are listed as NLA parts, as usual. Hopefully you will get lucky.

^^ Nice troubleshooting. Must have been sticking contacts on the original relay. Thanks for posting your results. :cheers:

And rock crawling with monster tires. A slower steering ratio is usually considered to be better for that. In fact, the off-road package in the very early XJs (and possibly MJs) came with an 18:1 steering box. And I'm sure you don't do either of the above anymore. :peek: :yes:

Long or short bed?

I remember on all those long flights to the Far East Pacific on the northern route we flew over that area. Looked like a frozen wasteland. They must use a lot of rotary aircraft up there Dirty, si?

Faster is better for all things. Except making love. :chillin:

Nice body and paint, great looking suspension, stock engine with new injectors and what looks like an Injen intake. Definitely wouldn't be my choice for a really a good daily driver and light off roading; too much lift and the ride and handling most likely sucks. Maybe worth half the asking price. If a DD is what you're set on, I'd pass for sure. You can do better for a lot less $$ for a really nice street MJ. Edit: It's a Spectre intake, not an Injen.

Nope, definitely not a standard for every stroker, I agree. But every Hesco built crate stroker has guaranteed dyno test stand minimum HP/Torque numbers depending on the flavor of the mild-to-wild recipe built you select, i.e. cam, valve train, aluminum head, displacement, etc. etc. No one does it better, but you have to pay for it. Also agree with "no hocus pocus controllers and switches to fool the AW4". In spite of it's power loss, the AW4 is a super reliable tranny and will handle any 4.x stroker engine with ease if left alone. My goal going in with a stroker was reliability first with decent gains over stock. Got all that ten-fold, and in the long run it's smarter financially than cheaping out on some yahoo-built stroker, doing it yourself (possibly more yahoo), or most other builders. Check it out, stroker horror stories abound. It's the old axiom, you get what you pay for.

THIS old post is mostly still current, except for some injector and exhaust changes, cowl hood, and the Unichip is now history. Probably a bunch of other stuff I've forgotten about too.

No boost - just more displacement and better suck and blow peripherals, like headers, intake, dual exhaust, etc. . Manually shift kits and valve body kits like the TransGo might help curb some drivetrain power loss, but I've no experience in them yet. Everything I've read about the AW4 says that they have quite high drivetrain power loss as compared to most other autos. It's documented at almost 30% in my case. I don't believe all these people who rave about the great power they have measured with a butt dyno after doing performance mods. It's mostly wishful thinking. You need before and after PROOF baby! :yes: Also I pay no attention to the armchair experts who badmouth strokers, supercharging, turbos, etc. It's all opinionated BS if you can't prove it.

True, but it's doubtful you would get 8psi from the M90 on your stroker. More like 3-4 psi I would think. I'm thinking about the Eaton also but need more real world dyno info on what it will do on a stroker.

:shake: ^^ Everybody's lying and wasting their money says Mr. 2.5. :yes: Tell that to the dyno. He is correct somewhat regarding the AW4. It doesn't break, but the total drivetrain loss from the test stand numbers to the rear wheels after installation was ~30%. The numbers would have been much better, at least 12% overall, with an AX15. But I like my auto. Dzimm, I hope you can do the similar with less money with the turbo and retain reliability. That was the key for me. Going strong for 9+ years now. Looking forward to your build.

Hope you make it reliable and under budget Dzimm. :cheers: I'm not even going to mention what the Hesco stroker cost back in 06. Sure has been reliable though.

Works for me. Nice find. It's great that smart people are writing hack-arounds for Firefox and Chrome, and it will be interesting to see what PB's reaction will be. Bastids.......

Kayaks would work fine on it, buy my 17' canoe - not so well.... Hell no! I had a pro do it - didn't want any leaks.

I did this a few years ago on my Leer LWB shell:

Unfortunately not everyone is as smart as we are. :rotfl2: I wouldn't want some fool in front of me starting his/her stalled vehicle in reverse when thinking he/she is in neutral. Or behind me starting in drive. That would make me very angry..

Never mind........

More $$ than you wanted to spend, but a nice setup with a quality Eaton M90 turbo and w/o cutting the hood. Requires the 96 and up power steering pump and brackets. https://www.boostedtech.com/superchargers/jeep-cherokee/cherokee-4-0-liter-6-cylinder-side-mount-supercharger/

Which NSS did you buy? Some aftermarket unit? Check the adjustment procedure HERE. It also shows the pinouts on the connector and how to check the switch pins for proper continuity. It sounds like your switch is wired incorrectly.

Since you're going with the bored throttle body (62mm I assume, stock is 60mm) I'd also use the 01 injectors with it ('00-'01, p/n 04854181,Blue tip, 49psi, 22.5lb/hr). The 95 OBD1 ECU will handle that well, and it'll be a nice little upgrade. You'll also need a fixed GM regulator (I have the p/n somewhere, also a spare if you need one) or an adjustable FPR on the fuel rail to bump the pressure up 10psi or so. :thumbsup: The Hesco TB spacer does nothing except take up hood clearance. I had one - then later sold it. Runs better w/o it.

The 89 still using the Renix system w. the 95 block? Do you know / suspect why it's overheating? I can't think of any reason why the 01 XJ block will give you any problems in the 89 MJ if you get rid of the coil packs, install the dizzy and use the 95 head w. the coolant temp sensor hole. It's a pretty common swap on the stroker forum to use the TUPY 0331 heads since they flow so well. Also the 01 block has the main bearing girdle - a nice upgrade.

Same here. Got to see the very beginning of the crescent when the moon was first making it's pass, then black clouds rolled in and blocked everything. Soon as the eclipse was over, it cleared up instantly. :( Oh well, at least there will be another one in 2024.....