Jump to content

redneck23ms

Members
  • Posts

    184
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by redneck23ms

  1. well its not very difficult to do but it is time consuming. you have to pull the front axle completely apart to get the seal out and drive the new one in. and that would be a good time to fix your bearing issue
  2. sounds like you need a new degree shim and center pin for your leaf spring. first you need to find out what degrees the shim is on the other side so you can get the right one. then just bolt it all back together and you should be good to go.
  3. mine bolted right up with no problem. be sure you don't pinch the speedo cable when tightening the drivers side upper bracket
  4. are you talking about getting a custom rear axle built? none of the stock rear 44s were hp. the shop you are going to is just trying to get you to spend money there. a stock dana 44 is 10x's better starting point that and dana 35.
  5. you can get the plastic ones from jegs/ summit for pretty cheap but they are pretty uncomfortable. i had some in a cj i had a couple years ago and after sitting in there for 30 mins or so my back would start hurting. just something to keep in mind.
  6. here is how mine sits. soa on stock leafs.4" springs with 2" spacer up front and 36" tsl's i'm not sure how much lift the soa gave it though as it was already done when i got it. it also had 2" lift blocks in the back then but i chunked those when i put the 8.8 in. here is a flax shot when i had 34" ltb's on it
  7. i get them at a local u-pull-it yard for 18.99 plus tax. or 28.99 with the unitbearing still on it
  8. gudentight works for me
  9. i haven't fooled with too many zj's either. just figured that since they were hp since all other dana 30's at that time were.
  10. you can get a different companion flange for your driveshaft that takes a 1310 u-joint. the one i have came off of a ranger.
  11. i had the idea one time to take a cj grill like that and mount it on the ceiling over the workbench and wire up the headlights to shine down on the bench.
  12. in my area i would say $200 is about eh max one would be worth. i paid $70 for mine at a u-pull-it yard. but mine was open with 3.27 gears. which didn't matter to me because i was regearing to 4.56 anyways, so i'd say maybe 200 for the 4.10 and 150 for 3.73 would be fair price if they are complete and the brakes are in decent shape
  13. you can get the axle out of any xj,tj,zj. easiest to find are later model xj's or even early ones with abs. they will have the 297 u-joints. once you look at a couple you'll be able to tell the difference from the 260 joints to the 297. i'm in the process of doing this swap myself. i did some searches on naxja an there are several different seals that people have used. what i'm going to do is use a stock drivers side seal and grind the housing until it fits. the reason i'm going this route is all of the other seals don't have the little ramp on them to guide the axle shaft thru the seal. and the seals can easily be damages by the shaft banging on them without the ramp. well i will be doing this as soon as i get the axle shaft nut loose that is. been hitting it with pb blaster for several days and already broken a 1/2" drive extension, ratchet and breaker bar on it.
  14. less backspacing is better. the less backspacing, the farther the tire is away from the inner fender
  15. that is a good looking rattle can job. here's mine. it is flat od green. most of it was done by one of the previous owners. i repainted the drivers bed side and touched up some spots other places. looks good enough for me.
  16. try adjusting the t-case linkage. sounds like its popping out of gear when its in reverse.
  17. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... p-201.html
  18. then it came time to install the braces. well these are designed for a xj and i have a mj. mj's have a big reinforcement welded onto the lca mount so the braces won't work in stock form. most guys simply don't worry with them and leave them off. i liked the idea of having them for strength and they also form a ramp to help keep from getting hung up on the brackets. so i cut half of the brace off where the reinforcement is and drilled a new hole for an additional bolt got it all bolted up and ready to go now
  19. i copy and pasted this to keep from another site i'm on having to type it all again got some control arm drop brackets for christmas installed them yesterday/today. the install on the brackets themselves was pretty easy. my adjustable arms gave me a bit of trouble due to them being froze up and the bolts also being froze up. finally got them all off and freed up before after
  20. just finished installing mine. install went pretty smoothly except for the lca bolts being extremely frozen up and my adjustable lca's were pretty well froze up too. after lost of beating and prying i finally got them loose. and applied lots of anti-sieze. and for the braces it appears that we may be able to cut one side of the frame end off and get it to fit. that will only leave one bolt hole on the frame side though. i'm going to work on that tomorrow and see how it turns out
  21. brown santa delivered mine today
  22. just got my order in as well. now just gotta wait for brown santa to deliver them
  23. well the final decision is yours but i just can't see putting 5-7 grand into an mj to just have it lifted and 4wd. if you do the work yourself you should be able to do all of that for less than 2000. so selling and looking for something else is where my vote goes.
×
×
  • Create New...