redneck23ms

is your axle centered under the jeep? if so then you should rub on both sides when turned. trimming the lca's is a bad idea they are already fairly weak with all of the metal there. center the axle then adjust the stops like pete said. or don't turn so far.

i made my own hood vents following a write up on naxja. i have about $20 in all of the parts. i used grill sheet from lowes and some door edging to finish it off. and used some 3m double sided tape to stick the sheet to the hood.

nice clean install. looks good. if it were me i'd paint the backside of the plexiglass that the gauges are in black so that you don't see all the wiring and the back side of the gauges.

yes i cut right on the body line where the flared out part ends

i cut the lower 1/4 panels on my bed also and i did gain a good bit of clearance. mine is a longbed though so i have more bed hanging out back there and i have still hit bed a few times back there

your onlt options are to get a new or junkyard balancer

the crank pulley should be grooved

yj's didn't come with the 4.0 until 91 or 92. before then they had a carbed 4.2 so most likely that is a 2.5 pump if it came out of an early yj

they will fit but you will need to do a bit of trimming and bumpstopping. i run 36"tsl(they run small for 36s though) on the same amount of lift with no trouble.

the wire doesn't have insulation on it most of the way up through the foil wrapping. a guy on naxja says that its a ground for the foil wrapping. i guess its to prevent interference with the knock sensor signal.

yes i know the plug goes to the knock sensor. but there is also another wire wrapped up along with the 2 wires for the knock sensor that is shown in the pic. that is the wire i'm wondering about.

i'm trying to figure out where this wire goes. it goes to a sensor on the drivers side of the block. it is wrapped up along with 2 other wires. those 2 wires go into the plug for the sensor and this one is just hanging out all alone. anybody know where it might go?

you can also look on the sticker on the drivers door for the axle code. pretty sure the codes for 4.10 are 42=4.10 open and 4d=4.10 lsd. i have posted the code chart on here before i believe edit: i found it 43 Open 3.08 41 Open 3.27 42 Open 4.10 46 Open 3.73 45 Open 3.55 D4 Limited Slip 3.73 D2 Limited Slip 4.10 L73 Limited Slip 3.73

i'm running 10" wheels with 4" backspacing. but i guess i'm not " in the know"

if they are the same as the tre's used in rusty's hd steering then they are 11/16-18. i had to get a new jam nut for mine and it was tough to find one without ordering it from rusty's which i refuse to do.

the diameter of the wheel doesn't have anything to do with the lug pattern. you will need a wheel with whatever diameter that you want and the correct pattern. here is the correct way to measure the lug pattern. http://www.mrt-wheels.com/boltpattern.html

i don't believe alloy is even making shafts anymore. of those listed ten factory would be my choice. however if price wasn't a concern then a set of rcv shafts would be the way i went. and rcv shafts aren't really any more expensive than a set of good chromos and ctm's

So, er, um, that's legal??? i don't see why it wouldn't be legal.

i had the same problem. here is my solution

i used both. my mj already had an extended upper bumpstop but with 36s it didn't touch anything so i used 3 hockey pucks as well. counter sunk the bolts too. its not really that hard to tighten the bolt either

i have rusty's engine/tranny and t-case skids. they hang down a little lower than i would like but they do a good job of protecting everything.

do you have adjustable control arms? what kind of track bar do you have? to gain lift you could add longer shackles in the rear. and either taller springs or spacers in the front.

with 6" lift yes i would use them. i have them on mine with about the same amount of lift with no complaints. better ride, better flex and i don't hit them on stuff very much at all. but i am running 36" tires too

i'm gonna have to say its a cj7. since the jtrucks had a d44 front and not a d30

you could build it where you could swap the front to a 2wd beam or a 4wd front. several of the jeepspeed teams do that depending on the race course. if it were me i'd want 4wd especially in the deep silt of baja. should be a cool project