redneck23ms

yes the mj uses the same unit bearing as a xj but neither of them can be ran without the outer axle in place. the bearing will self destruct and the wheel/hub will fall off if it is ran without a stub shaft in place

if something in the front axle is bad your best bet would be to pull the axle shafts out and put just the outer shafts back in. you have to have outers or else your wheel bearing will fall apart. with a lunchbox locker if you "remove the guts" the axle shafts will flop around in the carrier and likely cause damage to themselves and the carrier. however if the locker itself is bad it shouldn't make much noise at all when going straight in 2wd.

sounds like those may be some rear coils from a tj. they are bigger around and shorter

i have 4-4.5" coils and 2" spacer on mine that are either rusty's or rough country and they work very well. ride good but aren't too soft. my previous xj had re 5.5" springs and they were very soft but i also had a heavy bumper and winch up front. that is something else to think about when getting coils

i would like to see a pic of the torque arm deal though if you can get one

if its only diving on one side then you probably have a bad shock on that side.

np205 is a transfer case not a transmission. a 205 is a good strong t-case. its only downfalls are its very heavy and it only has a 2:1 low range.

here's a couple pics of mine don't really have any pics of me and the mj that i could find and a video with some bedside carnage

have you cleaned the iac? a dirty one can cause some strange idle issues

i'm in the south and never heard anybody call them quarter lockers :dunno: to me the selectable hub conversions are way too much money. i'd just put a new unit bearing on there and keep wheeling.

if the parts come with it then buy it for 600 and install the parts yourself. its not that hard just time consuming

its the stock one from my mj. when i got it it was soa with 2" blocks and a dana 35 and a t-case drop. i ditched the blocks and the d35 and put the 8.8 in. when i did that i have to shorten the driveshaft about 3/4" when i still had the t-case drop on there. without the t-case drop it probably would have been fine. i think the driveshaft is around 48" from center-center of the u-joints. i'll have to double check that tomorrow

its best to get a master install kit for each axle when you install new gears. that way you have new bearings and shims etc. the stock mj spring plates won't work since the 8.8 has larger tubes than any axle the came stock in a mj. i used the stock explorer plates when i put an 8.8 in mine. you'll need to come up with some sore of shock mounts too.

i have a longbed with a 8.8 soa and no slip yoke eliminator and no vibes. except for vibes from running square tires(bias swampers)

doh. i was thinking of the charcoal canister. i already have the vac. can under the hood.

can the canister be done away with if one is no longer using it for the fuel tank vents?

does anybody know what this wire is supposed to hook to? its a red wire that is in the harness that goes through the grill. i found this end of it has broken off and was sitting under the battery tray.

i'm running the rough country drop brackets on my mj. i modified the braces so that they would work with the stock lca support. i had to cut off one side of the rough country braces and drilled a new hole farther back. they don't sit perfectly flat on the frame or perfectly square on the drop brackets but has been working fine for me so far. i'm probably going to get the braces and brackets welded to the frame in a few places to keep them from moving any. as i don't have alot of faith in the self tapping bolts that come with the braces. here are a few pics of how i made mine work.

if you are running a sye then you want the pinion to be pointed about 1 degree lower than the t-case output. if you're running the stock slip yoke then you pinion angle should be the same as the angle of the t-case output shaft.

pretty sweet rig. i saw his build on pirate a couple days ago. someday mine will get tons and links. i kinda like the diff cover on the hood though

an easy way to tell if its the puke goat is to crawl under the truck and look at it. if there is a seam in the tranny at the bottom running front to back where the 2 side halfs of the tranny bolt together then its the pukegoat. if there isn't a seam lengthwise then its an ax15

did you disconnect the ground wire behind the drivers side tail light? if so thats your problem. that is where the fuel pump grounds

this isn't actual pictures but this is a design that i drew up for how i would like my exo cage to be some day. B pillar side view top view

also check and make sure you have the wires hooked up correctly on the pump. i remember someone stating that some replacement pumps have the + and - wires reversed from stock configuration.