redneck23ms

where did you see the $129 special? and how long is this deal going to last? the brackets will work on mj's but the braces won't. i asked about the braces a couple weeks ago and several on here assured me that the braces aren't needed on mj's since they have the welded on lca mount brace already.

i have adjustable arms already. but i'm at 6.5" of lift and the arms are at a pretty steep angle. drop brackets will flatten this angle and give a much smoother ride. they also allow more articulation since the arms aren't binding as much due to the angles.

control arm drop brackets

i know the drop bracket braces won't fit on our mj's without some modifications. what all has to be done to make them work? anybody have a pic of their modified braces?

i believe it will be a widetrack dana 44 front and an amc20 rear. could be a 44 rear though. if the diff cover is round then its and amc20.

isn't the teraflex kit just longer lower, but still uses stock uppers in stock location?

they won't fit. mj's have a 5 on 4.5" lug pattern. jk's are 5 on 5"

i reckon i can introduce mine here as well. 87 jeep comanche longbed 4.0,aw4,231 6.5"lift front with re adjustable arms SOA rear 34-10.50 LTB's 4.65 gears 8.8 rear lincoln locked rusty's inverted-T steering rusty's winch bumper ghettofabbed rear bumper fuel cell

chevy outers are also 6 on 5.5. ford, dodge, older waggy, and jeep cj outers will all swap over to convert to 5 on 5.5

waggy 44 = 62.5" wide stock dana 30=60" wide

looks like that main cap was on backwards which is why its only worn on one side. the mains are line bored with the caps on and if you turn one backwards you will get wear on one side like that. definitely change the main bearings before putting it back together. in the pic it looks like the arrow on the center main caps are all pointing towards the rear and they should be pointing forward

why would you want to narrow a waggy 44? to narrow one is pretty simmple. cut thru the weld on the inner C. then with a bfh knock the C off and cut to to desired length. then drive C back on. set castor to desired angle and weld C back on. then order a custom length shaft of send the stock one off to get re-splined. however 4.88's should be perfect for 35's. i don't suggest running a tire any bigger than that on a dana 30

i was told that they are different. if you need one i have one for sale. pump and sender for $25 plus shipping

whoever assembled it may have put a rod or main cap on backwards. if one or several are on backwards it will not allow it to spin over.

spring over with stock springs is all you need.

you will also have to get new u-bolts and spring plates to work with the 8.8 or reuse the explorer parts

thats why i was asking. can't always believe everything you read on the internet. plus if it was a decent product it might be worth the wait. however seems like it might not be worth the hassle

yeah i have read about they poor business practices already

has anybody here used the rocky road drop bracket set? i see that they have come up with some braces for theirs made to fit on mj's. price is good too. about the same as the rc ones

being that the fuel flows around the brushes and armature it doesn't matter if its mounted external or internal as long as there is fuel in the line/tank then there will be no vapor/oxygen in the pump. carry on with your flaming.

could be a tranny mount. my first guess would be a worn control arm bushing.

my 87 4.0 does the same thing. pretty standard for them. my 92 4,0HO did it as well

if the axles are still in the explorer then look on the drivers door sticker and there will be an axle code. this is what the codes are Explorer 43 Open 3.08 41 Open 3.27 42 Open 4.10 46 Open 3.73 45 Open 3.55 D4 Limited Slip 3.73 D2 Limited Slip 4.10 L73 Limited Slip 3.73

again i'm sure it will fail at some point in time. all mechanical things will. but as cool as it ran on my test runs i don't see where its life span will be shortened very much. and again i don't see how you say its unsafe or a fire hazard. fuel pumps don't spontaneously combust. and if they did i would rather have one mounted on the frame rail when it did than in a tank full of fuel. when you come up with a realistic explanation for the unsafe fire hazard deal let me know.

just got the mj on the road this week. have made a couple of 30-45 minutes rides.so far the pump has worked flawlessly. i also installed a fuel filter between the tank and the pump. after the 30-45 minutes of constant running the pump isn't warm to the touch at all. going to take it on a shakedown trail ride sunday so that will be more of a test for it. since it will be several hours of mostly slow trail riding.