ThatJeepGuy

Slow going over here... other things needed to get done soo i managed to get just a couple little things done. Power steering lines - check! Factory 83 pressured line has this goofy arch but the fittings are tight and the lines arent rubbing anything. Alternator bracket and assy on and serpentine belt isntalled... i know - thrilling Radiator installed and plumbed minus the overflow tank which I'm torn on retaining the original or getting one of those cheapy Amazon ones because theyre smaller... I'm going to try the factory clutch fan setup and makeup a shroud for it, worst case scenario I default to e-fans but this stuff was free soo guess which setup wins.

Best advice i can offer, argue up with no remorse.

I may actually have one of those carbs sitting on the floor of my garage... The leftover bits from the 83 Cherokee I'm currently LS swapping. Either way I'm getting with the program and seeking a tbi truck then. I'm not much for the Diesel trucks, my buddies give me hell becuase its apparently the smarter move for a hauling rig but I do just a handful of trips a year and primarily in my home state (2hrs drive to the location(s)). I don't see the need for one in my situation, my gasser(s) have served me well enough

I'm guessing because I also want to use this truck to haul across country thats going to be the smarter move

Was the tbi considerd any better than a carburated version?

Hello all and welcome to my next predicament... I'm considering getting myself into another tow rig, in the passed I started out with a 2000 Chevy 2500 (6.0 and 4l80e) then moved onto a 2010 silverado (5.3 and 6l80e). Both of which did all the things I asked them to but both unfortunately succumbed to rust/mechanical failures. Currently ive been making all the things happen with my wife's 2013 Tahoe but it too is started to succumb to the rust belt demons. Now I'm no ford/dodge guy soo we arent gonna get into any of those options but considering the current truck market in my immediate area, I'm not exactly thrilled about spending money on another 99-13 GM truck. The 80s-early 90s chevy pickups however are really catching my eye! Primarily the big block 454 and auto/manual trans setups in nearly any configuration (srw/drw ext-crew cab and any bed configuration). Anyone care to sway me away or further into my search for one of these specimens?

Interior

As luck would have it, I stumbled upon this deal, 2 sets of factory bucket seats w/the center console ($400 for all of it). Now not only do it get to resolve the seating situation in the Cherokee, but also the Jtruck hiding in the garage as well Hgeranium, this was the only pic I took thus far, ill get others this weekend. You can see the floor is a beautiful color tone of plywood

Surprisingly I have no pictures at the moment. The bulk of the floor pans are a couple sections of plywood thanks to PO. This jeep did come with a set of mastercraft front seats, actually pretty nice for my standards as well! I'll nab a few pictures this week/weekend though to establish the starting point for the inside as well. Haven't set much sight for any work inside just yet. My plan is to have this thing run and move under its own power before I bother with any floor pan or panel repairs.

While this is supposed to be a cheap LS swap I splurged and got this set of swap motor mounts. Pretty sure they are still made by Flop Shop but BJs seemed to be the only way to get them? With the new mounts painted and ready for install it was time to pluck the original trans and tcase out And then we dump the new drivetrain in More to come

Definitely dig the look with the 35 geolanders. Love the progress and updates btw

I have a secret collection of arguably poorly thought out exo cages... this is one of the latest additions

The hoodbrowvisor thing on this... its like a having a mullet, but the mullet is on the front

Than along comes the donor vehicle, a 2000s Chevy tahoe with a recently replaced engine just months before the PO had an accident and totalled it out. The relevant bits, 5.3 engine, 4l60e trans, complete engine bay harness and gas tank should be enough to get me through. All said and done after pulling my needs and partingout/scrapping whats left I'm pretty sure i actually made money off this thing, id have to check my notes for sure but definitely broke even at the least.

The factory 4.0 mounts from your donor should drop right into the 86 mounting holes.... How about that firewall clearance? And factory track bar upper mounting holes? And fitting the 4.0 radiator into that radiator support? I have a thread somewhere on this forum highlighting these things I'll see if I can find it

15"diameter, width depends on style but typically 7-8-9" wide. Best to check marketplace or even poke around car-part.com and get a look into the local part out yards.

Interesting swap in regards to source, what did the YJ come with for an auto Trans? Thats surely not a common package over an xj donor

Stumbled upon this 83 FSJ through marketplace and watched it for a few months. Eventually talked myself into atleast asking questions... Naturally that lead me to making a day trip with a buddy of mine to another state, also convincing the guy to accept my reasonable offer. I've wanted one of these FS Cherokee's for some time now and finally have one to explore and modify. I did try and find a cheap amc360 to put into this engine bay BUT the amount of money i was willing to spend on a used engine and the actual availability of them were not even close. The plan is to do another one of them Jeep LS swaps. Nothing special just dirty and cheap. Honestly playing catch up making this thread but I absolutely wanted to document the evolution of what this jeep may become.

Any approach/attempt to fix your floors that involves removing your unibody cap and also this side inner rocker cap is a better approach than Not. I find it best to drill out all of the rosette welds and then pluck these 2 pieces out before I start making the decision on a full floor pan or repairing only sections. The barbarians that simply plop the small cutouts of new floor On Top of these unibody caps are soo sadly mistaken of how they in fact did NOT fix their floor pans and more soo they just invited bigger problems later on once that original in-between layer rusts away, then turning the unibody into a debris and rust receptical. Because the MJ specific floor pans are a rather recent offering, also based on my experience with the KeyPars XJ specific floor pans and their fitment - i would pony my bucks over for nothing other than the KeyParts MJ specific pans. The simplicity and ease of final fit and finish is worth the $$ in my opinion. Even if it comes down to an ebay purchase - thats what a credit card is for. Any issues or hangups and you let the CC company fight thrm to get their money back - not you fighting for yours. Any of those pages portraying the XJ and MJ as universal or same fitting is wrong. The cheapy C2C generic pans are fine for something youd want to spruce up and re-sell quickly all-be it thats what the old appliance metal is for 😜. But if you plan on keeping this jeep a long time, do it right-er once.

Check out car-part.com Don't know your engine size but any 92-94/95 xj with the same drivetrain should be fine for a donor pcm

For the love of goddess would you check this already!? With the pictures you posted of your frame side bracket bolts being sloppy - it doesn't take much if the axle side bolt was lose as well to have an egged out hole.

Soo we're back! Bottom leaf is the 3 leaf pack, middle leaf is what I believe to be the 1415 pack and the top is what I believe to be thr 1900 pack. Difference between the 1415 and 1900 4 leaf packs? The 1900 pack has dual clamps and also the arched overload vs the 1415 pack having 1 light duty clamp and a completely flat overload. Adapting sleeve for the front bushing Again this is the 3 leaf pack. Just under 34" to my bumper. This is purely a reference point Then at just under 35" we have the 1415 pack Lastly what i believe is the 1900 pack at just over 35". I'm going to stick with the 1900 leaf pack to start out, if they prove to be too stiff then I can bastardize the pack as needed with he other 2 sets.

The F150 leaf spring swap progress update This was the before. Take notice to the shackle angle... The pictured leaf spring on the right is a dorman factory replacement. On the left we have the f150 leaf spring. Small note - the front bolt in the Ford is an 18mm which is larger than our factory 9/16s bolt. I'm having a custom sleeve made to correct this but others may drill out their front mounting hole to compensate. Install is simple enough 1st thing and its not too surprising, it sits lower than the former dorman leafs did. Obviously lighter rated so i expected that, roughly 1-1.5" lower than previously- this being measured in my distance between bump stop(s). Also the shackle angle, which again this is to be expected because of the slightly longer length. I'm still going to keep my eye out for another set of the higher weight rated leafs before i call this over with soo until then - hope this helps others

Is the track bar mounting hole on your front beam axle still 11mm round? Any slop in this mounting hole can easily go un-noticed and be the cause of your deathwobble. Is the steering box spacer (factory is aluminum) still intact and the bolts all tight? Broken spacer and/or lose bolts can cause this. Are your track bar mounting bolts tight? Is your unibody or the unibody seams around your steering box/track bar mount cracked or the rosette welds broken free Causing the unibody to flex?

This isnt very detailed but I had an issue with my dash lights and sometimes radio staying on after keyed off. Dealt with this intermittently for years until while updating my headlights and doing the popular headlight harness relay kit I also installed a new headlight switch. Problem was gone after that, when the key is turned to off, everything is off. Perhaps there's some troubleshooting method to look into on the function of your headlight switch?