Akula69

In all my DW cases it has been a combination of: 1) Out-of balance or out of alignment tires 2) Some problem with the track bar including a. Not tight at top mount - either mount to frame or bar to mount b. Worn or rounded out top mount hole c. worn or destroyed ball joint at top end (frame side). d. worn or loose bushing at lower end (axle side) e. loose bolt at lower end If the track bar is new (4 mths ago) my bet would be loose or defective. We actually had to put a lock washer on the bottom end of my son's bar after replacing a defective one (the ball joint was bad).

You are correct, but I wonder...is the diameter of the cap the same regardless of the tank size? This one is a great price but lists for the 13 gallon tank (which I have never even heard of let alone seen)

NEWFLASH!!!!! And today, at Hornbrods house it was discovered a small flood of saliva had washed the dog out into the street. When asked, the dogs' owner stated "I was looking at all the shiny chrome on this impeccable Jeep and I just started drooling and could not stop" More to follow at 6!

I need a broken MJ OR XJ fuel sender from the model years 1986 to 1992. It does not matter if from a short or long bed tank, as all I am going to use is the actual lid (which covers the hole in the tank). None of the other parts need to work, or even be in good shape EXCEPT for the cap. Obviously, if your broken sender is rusted through the cap I cannot use it. I am installing a new tank in Junior with a Genright fuel sender ring and 2000 XJ sender. I need the cap to seal the hole on the side of the tank, and will be welding it in (and welding shut the wiring holes and pipe openings) Please let me know how much you might want for it, and where you are (zip code) so I can calculate shipping.

Hmmm. After the vacuum leak did you try and drive it for a short distance (but during that drive maintain 30MPH for at least 30 seconds) for the IAC to "learn" its settings? Also - check the adjustment on the throttle cable. I can't find the link right now on adjusting it - but it's simple.

If you can get a helper to hold the throttle open - a can of carb cleaner (judiciously) sprayed around while its running will pin point it immediately.

Vacuum leak somewhere....at intake manifold or TB would be my thought.

Looks great - what do you charge per hour?...

OK - Been awhile so I figured I would post up where the project is. Got the engine and all other items stripped out, pressure washed the truck (ugly I tell you...) and have removed most of the brackets and such to prepare for welding. Body has proven to be in good shape, the frame has been relatively rust free! Anyway, to the pictures: Frame and rear of truck. Needs to be sealed and painted, but otherwise in great shape. Interior Engine bay. Not perfect, but took about 2 inches of crap off with pressure washer. I inverted the bed to pressure wash the bottom. Will undercoat it then set it back on the frame for painting.

There are a lot of choices, but if you could do a little diagnosis before spending you'd get a lot further, because it can get kinda expensive fast. If you already know where the problem is and don't want to fix it - so be it - just get one of the 'quick recharge' kits and done. Otherwise, it depends on whether the system is completely empty. If not, you could choose a recharge canister that has dye in it already to assist you in finding the leak and decide if you want to go further from there. If it is, at minimum you should rent a vacuum pump and evacuate the system before putting fresh Freon in there. If you want to go full bore, you could buy a set of gauges (but NOT the vacuum pump as they are prone to failure). Most of your auto parts places (Autozone etc.) rent vacuum pumps and will also rent gauges for 134 as well. Good Luck!

Ignition Switch module - but be sure the parts guy knows you are not asking for the ignition key tumbler (key switch).

LOL! True Congrats Gunny - finding the right one is always a challenge - but worth it in the end.

Door hinges are # 40 Torx screw. Be very careful that the bit is fully engaged so they do not strip out.

It is a 1/4 inch hex bolt right in the very center accessible from the engine bay side. Probably one of the only non-metric bolts on the truck.....

PM me. I have a set on the 2000 XJ (that I am scrapping) I will send you for free on your dime.

PM me. I have a set on the 2000 XJ (that I am scrapping) I will send you for free on your dime.

Did use them in an 88 rebuild without problems.

Get out as many as you can with the torx bit. In some cases you may need to use just the bit and an 5/16 rachet wrench to get the angle correct. Heat works if you apply it first (butane torch) but will burn the paint. The ones that remain you can heat from inside the door cavity (through the speaker hole) carefully and then turn them out from the back with a pair of vice grips until the head protrudes enough to grasp it with vice grips from the outside - them just slowly turn them out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHEs5k7nGZc

If the head is not cracked (I'd confirm with magnafluxing) you can re-install after getting it decked. I would certainly take the time to check the valve stem seals and valves...pay particular attention to the seats for the exhaust valves and have the seats ground (and install new valves) if necessary.'TUPY' stamped heads are a little difficult to find at a reasonable price. Best I can tell from the NAXA forum, the 'TUPY' head is named that because Chryco contracted them from a company with that name in Brazil. They supposedly have a higher brass content to make them less likely to crack. You could also consider going backwards to the 0630 head which is not prone to cracking but would require changing the intake and exhaust manifolds. Good read here: http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=661 Good luck!

No problem - glad to try. Called the Chrysler / Jeep dealership here on Friday to see about paying to have a remote programed (with the DRBIII) for my wife's 04 WJ....the service rep briskly announced they no longer provide service for such 'older' vehicles. Must be profitable in the automobile industry these days. Seems our combined knowledge is pretty much all we have.

There are so many sources of short in that panel its not even funny. I would suggest unplugging the door harnesses and the visor harnesses, then plugging in the relay. if it still faults, pull and check the plug that is held in with the 10MM bolt. We had a good bit of corrosion under that guy (1.5 inch square with a silver bolt in center) due to a drip that was traveling down the radio lead.

Using the lower WJ arms have made a tremendous improvement on our trucks...but I believe there is a frame bracket modification you must make in order to use the upper ones... let me search for a minute... WTF? the search engine says "....the illegal words "WJ" have been removed from your search...." Oh well, maybe someone else can get the thread for you.

Notwithstanding the rocks that are being thrown back and forth...let me suggest: Did you check the harness going up into the column for chafing or a split/cut? Do you have the SKIM module plugged in to the harness directly below the column (the plug is there regardless - does the plug have damage?) . I'm thinking short - its only way I can see the horn relay could throw the TPS code. I assume you've tried swapping the relays around to check them... The fuse box is obviously part of the bus system...have you done any work around it lately?

I like the picture on the bill...a pile of rocks. That's about what you have in your head with that kind of inflation.... :doh: