Akula69

From the looks of what you have in your hand, it appears that the assembly fell out the bottom of the outer fender. In order to get it back to where it was you need to remove the small screw at the bottom of the inner fender well (that secures the plastic) and, while holding the antenna assembly in your hand, carefully snake your arm up into the fender until you can stick it back through the hole in the outer fender. (A helper standing at the top would be useful at this point). Then, replace the plastic shroud on top of the antenna assembly and secure the whole thing with the nut. Finally, screw the antenna back on.

Uh..I forgot to add that these little pipe bending springs make life a heck of a lot easier as well: http://www.generaltools.com/Products/6-Steel-Spring-Tubing-Benders-(14---58)__S106.aspx And as Pete said, take your time on the double flares, but don't get frustrated as you will get them right with a good flare tool. You might wanna practice a bit on old tubing first to get the hang of it.

no, it was for re-classifying unicorn farts as a source of global warming. :D

In most cases the parts store is going to sell you a pre-cut length of straight brake line that is already flared and has the wrong size nuts on it :roll: Your main concern is the OD of the line You can borrow a double flaring tool kit from some stores, some you'll need to rent it. Cut the existing flares off and use you old flare nuts from the vehicle. If (as you have indicated) the old flare nuts are unusable I have found that Auto Zone does carry the right sizes (just not on the pre-flared lines). You will need to bring one of the destroyed ones so they can give you the right size thread and ID.

Well, I imagine that it would piss off anyone to have that done. We have coyotes here as well...had a guy who found his 'yap' dog being carried off in the jaws of one after he heard a loud commotion one night. He got his .223 and loosed 15 rounds at the critter....not hitting it once (although it did drop his pet) :nuts: We ended up responding and taking his weapon so he would not 'spray and pray' any more..... Also, I can tell you to always be upwind when pepper spray is deployed. :no:

Sorry for your loss.

I'm guessing it would be put to better use by giving it to the daughter. You can't fix stupid. :fool: Willy :doh: Yea, I guest I didn't think of that............ :teehee: LOL to all....and thanks for the advice.

Well, it's like this.... I dumped about the entire garage of tools into the cartop carrier, along with a pancake compressor and a floor jack. Needless to say my wife's jeep wagged its tail the whole way there :roll: . Found where 'Ralph' had died via GPS and unloaded the whole mess....raised the hood and peered around for a sec...decided to check the report from the boyfried...put the coil tester on and GOT NO SPARK (dumba$$ little scrawny bastid). Replaced the coil in 20 minutes and good 'ole Ralph fired right up. Drove him back to the dorm, kissed the daughter and told the dude to get an education in cars. We went out to dinner later and. believe it our not, he actually expected me to pay for him.... :headpop: some kids never learn.

Thanks for all the replies. After further reading of the instructions that came with the water pump, it appears they included both the water pump gasket and a front oil seal (Crank). The instructions do not mention the front oil seal, but I believe the reason they reference the oil pan gasket is they believe you have to take the timing cover off to replace the front oil seal (although you can replace it without taking it off) and want you to do the pan gasket as well. :dunno: Like Wildman said, its all very confusing when translated from chinese to english!

I have read (in the instructions)that the manufacturer of my new water pump AND my timing chain gear set that replacing the oil pan seal is REQUIRED when either of the two (water pump or timing chain) is replaced. BUT In the box with the timing chain cover gaskets is a partial oil pan gasket (just the front edge of the pan). I recently replaced the entire oil pan gasket with a fel pro rubber/steel core gasket, and would rather not have to take the entire pan out again :no: . Can anyone advise what they did on this work? If you did the work, did you use the partial or drop the whole pan? Can I carefully seperate the timing chain cover from the existing gasket and re-use it? Thanks Jake

Yeah...I was trying to get him to electrocute himself, but he was a little too smart for that :doh: Besides, I'm not totally sure that the coil would generate enough juice to do the job permanently. I call him dweeb 'cause he doesn't know jack about cars...and really doesn't want to learn. He prefers spending the money for someone else to do it. She said the thing ran fine with no hesitation or noises, she had been at the house for about 2 hours and when she went back out it would crank but not start. Yes, it has spark at the plugs, or atleast the one he checked. And yeah, I'll need to pack a lunch....and a sleeping bag!

As you can tell from my sig, I own a couple of jeeps. Today's topic is about the 1994 XJ that belongs to my daughter which she has named Ralph. She is quite pissed at Ralph today because he will not start, and she is about 5 hours away from the person who can fix him (called Dad) at college. Dad is trying to diagnose the problem from here, and would like to enlist the expert help in these forums before I pack all my tools and head out there. This I know: Cranks - yes Fuel: yes - 40PSI at the rail Spark: Maybe. The dweeb she has helping her would not stand in a bucket of water and hold the coil while she cranks it..(ooops thats a story for another time). yeah - its got fire. I can't find anything in the FSM about whether the 94 had a CPS, but that would be my first thought. Second thoughts would be ECM, or timing chain. Dweeb (boyfriend) is not skilled in checking TDC while piston # 1 is at top of cylinder....does anyone have an idea (to check the timing) that would be easier for his brain to comprehend? You comments are appreciated. It appears I will be heading up there the end of this week.

Can you give us a little more information? What I mean is, you may have replaced the main seal but there are a lot of variables here. For example: Did you possibly put part of it in backwards? Is your oil pressure high (because of advanced miles on your engine or the breather line is plugged) and the pressure has caused the new rear main to fail? Could you possibly have nicked the crank when you replaced the top part of the seal? Did you used a new 1 piece oil pan seal when you had the pan down for the seal replacement, or did you remove the transmission and use a one piece seal? Are you sure the oil is actually still leaking from the RMS? Sometimes the valve cover can leak at the back and it will run down the block and just look like the RMS is leaking. Could the 'O' rings on the oil filter adapter be worn and leaking, and running down the block? Please let us know a little more and we can narrow it down! :D Edit: dayem Eagle you're quick on the trigger!

The NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) on the right side of the auto tranny preforms that service. That cable "locks" the automatic floor shifter into the park position as a "anti-thief" device, to keep from moving the shifter out of Park with out the key in the ignition and "on" If you "now" have a manual transmission, that cable in not needed, you'll find the other end under the carpet, just in front of the floor shifter, towards the firewall. Bob is correct...I got ahead of myself in my description.

Well (anything I would say here is certainly worthless) I live in the opposite direction...so I'll offer moral support! :cheers:

Hmmmm....never thought about that before, but the mounting brackets/pins would have to be modified, and the gasket would probably prevent it.

Willy is correct, it is a ignition lock cable that goes from the column to the floor shifter. I can't tell whether your truck had an auto trans and a floor shifter, but that cable is for keeping the vehicle from starting unless the floor shifter is in Park or Neutral. You would only need it if you went back to an aw4 and a floor shifter. Having said that....wanna get rid of it? :brows: PS: if you ever experience the key switch not operating properly, the first culprit should be assumed to be that little rod this cable was attached to in your picture (up by the shroud on the steering column). If you ever decide to tear into your column, I would remove that rod.

Hey no kidden? Happy Birthday. Remember: If ya can't be good....be good at it! :rotf:

Here in Covington we have numerous dealerships, but the only ones that 'profited' from the CFC program were the Toyota and Nissan ones. In fact, the Toyota one actually has about 200 CFC vehicles still on the lot, of which there are 4 - 1977 to 2000 XJ, several WJ and YJ, and numerous 1988-1996 XJ. I went over there after work last week and asked them if they would sell a vehicle complete for parts (adding emphatically that I did not want the title) and they said no, that the vehicles were all being wholesaled to 'Alex's Auto repair' in Slidell for $50.00 each. When I called Alexs's and tried to work a deal with him (I'll buy one from here so you don't have to tow it over there....) he said he would sell me all the individual parts I wanted, but said ' I paid a lot for these cars and need to get my money back....' After some research on this character I discovered he was the same guy who towed all the flooded vehicles out of New Orleans after Katrina, rehabilitated them and sold them again to unsuspecting buyers. He runs an auto repair shop, but has about 20 acres of vehicles that he uses to get parts off of to 'repair' vehicles brought in his shop. All-in-all, a sweet deal for him. And yes, I am jealous! :headpop:

Ideally, this post will help those who are suffering from the broken bolt in the block syndrome. My daughter came back from college on Friday complaining that the engine in her XJ had been making a 'roaring' noise. After a lot of poking around we discovered that the engine mounts needed replacement. Little did I know that the passenger-side engine mount had not only failed but it had broken all three bolts that held the mount bracket to the engine block. To add insult to injury the bolts that had broken off were behind the damn frame rail, and difficult to get to without pulling the engine. The bolts were also grade 8 hardened steel, so I was really at a loss as to what I was gonna do. Making a long story short, I got 5 different size drill bits, starting with 1/32 and going up to 7/16. I also purchased a set of square 'easy-outs' from Sears (NEVER use the round spiral ones - they snap!). I also borrowed a right angle air drill. First I used a center punch to get the exact center of the broken bolts. Then, using the slowest speed possible and copious amounts of PB Blaster, I drilled a hole starting with the smallest bit and as each was completed (meaning I reached the back of the broken bolt) I went to the next size bit until I got to the 7/16. (I gauged the depth by pulling a good bolt from the driver's side and measuring it, then marked the drill bits for that depth with a sharpie marker). In some cases I had to shorten the bits to allow the drill and bit to fit the space. Once the hole was complete I took a MAPP gas torch and heated the block around the broken bolt, then GENTLY tapped the square easy-out into the hole and, using the smallest cresent wrench I have I gently tried to turn the broken stud. If it seemed I had to apply more then a gentle pressue on the easy out I would gently try to turn it the other way...rocking it back and forth to ensure I did not break the easy-out off in the hole. It took me 6 hours to remove the three bolts, but I was able to get them out without jimmying up the existing threads or pulling the engine from the Jeep. After the block cooled I re-installed the bracket, this time using locking washers under the bolts to avoid this problem in the future. All-in-all, the old saying of 'easy does it' applies in these situations. I found that the hardest thing was keeping my patience while I gently drilled and removed these PITA's. Hopefully you will never have to, but if you have a broken bolt in the block you might want to try this method, especially if they are hardened bolts.

You may also need to softly bump on one of the crank counterweights with a RUBBER mallet after you loosen the last three caps to allow it to drop slightly. Mine only dropped about 1/32...but that was enought to allow me to move the top part of the seal. Crocus cloth (emory cloth - found in the plumbing section of any hardware store) can remove the burr from the bearing....do not fool with the grooves already on the bearing surface...clean bearing and corresponding crank bearingway with a soft, clean cloth and then you can apply fresh oil to both surfaces for the initial startup.

I have done what you are gonna do, and it seems much more daunting then it really is. First - lay a couple of pieces of old cardboard box on the ground or floor to catch the drips (and if it gets really oily you can turn it over for a new, clean surface to lay on). As you take the pan bolts out, remember where they were. I used a cardboard box with a rough drawing of the pan on it to remember what bolts came from where....this is especially important when you get around the front of the engine, as the bolt hole depths in the block are not all the same. I had to really work to get the oil pan out from around the axle...eventually I realized I could jack up slightly on the transmission and is would give me the last 1/2 inch I needed to get the pan out. I used a steel punch to snake the top of the seal out, and had to loosen the last three caps as well as remove the last one. If you are careful and don't nick the crank the stiff wire in the top part of the seal will stand up to a suprising amount of taps from the punch when struck with a plastic mallet. I did use motor oil on the front lip of the top seal, and liquid soap on the back. MAKE SURE the damn thing is facing the right way the first time....and don't forget to torque the caps back to 80 ft lbs in stages: do all at 20, then do all at 60 then again at 80. DO NOT torque them up to 80 all at once!!! Also - remember to put a dab of hi temp silcone sealer on each corner of the bottom seal after you carefully insert it in the cap. Good luck!

I'd do it...because you can't replace the front seal without taking the transmission out again. Call it cheap insurance.

I was driving the beast and heard a strange noise at acceleration...finally narrowed it down to the mechanical fan just barely touching the fan shroud when the engine was under torque. After a lot of power braking and such it appears the motor mounts are worn to the extent that the engine shifts just enough to let the fan rub. I ordered a set of mounts from Rockauto and will be changing them next weekend....but wondered if anyone could share how they are changed with the engine in the vehicle (I have only changed them when it was out). I appreciate your responses. Jake

Sorry about your Grandfather. I got my replacement heater valve from Rockauto for 24.00.