Akula69

I have a used one. You pay for the (Postal Service) ride you can have it. PM me

:yes:

Not yet, but I'm gonna try Don's idea tonight.

Don - Thanks for that suggestion - I never knew the shifting points were adjustable at that location! :cheers:

I had trouble with some as well, but solved it by chasing the threads with a tap. 'Course I had to remove a bunch of stuff (manifold and header, etc.) again to ream them all out. You wouldn't believe the debris that came out.

Not what I was saying Jim, but you are correct in any case.

Nope. :D And they know better than to wait for that. LOL yeah, it would probably be a cold day in hell before a chief would salute an officer in a sister service! In any case, congratulations Don, you did good!

We did that when the engine was gone through, but I will be re-cleaning it when I change out the TPS and clean the IAC.

We ran Toshiba laptops for a while in our units as running mobilecad apps, then we tried Panasonic toughbooks. Now run Dell units, and out of all of them they seem to say in service longer.

Looking for advice on a RPM fluctuation that has started occuring in the 89. Here's the data: Under steady throttle (never happens under acceleration or deceleration) the RPM's will briefly drop by about 200 and then immediately rise back to where they had been. There is no set speed at which this happens - it can happen at any speed. there ar no other symptoms. My son describes it as feeling like a sudden gust of wind hits the front of the jeep while you are driving it. We have replaced the trans computer with a known working one without any effect. All the sensors (13) were replaced with an engine re-build in 08/10. The trans was flushed and the filter was replaced at that time. Any ideas are appreciated.

Bingo! My son's truck goes out every day (all over creation - wanna see my gas bill?) and we haven't had too many problems...but in the beginning we had to correct many problems due to poor maintenance by the PO.

Roh-Ro! I wonder if he was in it when the BBQ started?

I paid $300.00 for the 87 I picked up in TN - it was a GA truck that sold at auction (and has a salvage title). I had to put $100.00 into straightening the frame and about $400.00 in 'extras' that I wanted (tilt, cruise, bucket seats). I drive it almost every day now even though it still needs a paint job. I paid $700.00 for the 89 out of MS, but by the time I had gone through it completely I probably put another $2500.00 to $3,000.00 into it. It is my son's daily driver and he'll be taking it to college (back in MS!).

If you are referring to the U-bolt that goes around the axle, we need to know what type axle first. A Cryco 8.25 takes a 3" diameter U-bolt that is standard length at 8". You can get longer ones if you want, but the bolts are harder to tighten. A D35 takes a 2.75" diameter 8" length.

Found a 1988 that had been in the Pull-a-part yard since 08/11/2011 and will be crushed on 10/11/2011. Info as follows (no Pictures) 1JTML631DJT031439 Build Date 07/87 4WD/4.0L/Pukegoat/231/D30/D35 Short Bed Sport Truck (base) model The seat and majority of the interior was already missing, as was the tailgate and the fuel sending unit. Bad tires on steel rims, looked like the front axle was toast from a hard LF hit. Pass door, B pillar and RR quarter of bed were badly damaged. Floor was well rotted out. All I got from it was the visor clips.

You owe me nothing. Next time you have a beer, have one for me!

Base, as far as I know.

Close eyes and open mouth first. And, don't touch the core after - its hot.

I don't know what year you're working with Jim, but all the way up until the the 95 model XJ there are 4 10MM bolts holding the top in that are located under a small trim up next to the windshield. The trim piece is held in by three phillips screws that are licated in the defrost vents. Once out you should be able to rotate the dash foward on the two bottom 15 MM bolts (at either side of the cab in behind the kick panels) and disconnect the wiring.

Absolutely. I took your advice :yes:

Drove it tonight - all the way up to 55 MPH without any significant vibrations. I will post pictures of the final angle tomorrow (when its daylight!)

I am fairly certain that there is an insert that can be put inline with the bottom radiator hose but cannot find the part number right now. I will continue to look but if someone else has it they can chime in....

He's in reverse? :D LOL Jim I was relating what the person who did the welding stated. If he was incorrect, then when I floor it on the highway this afternoon the results should be interesting...

Dunno. I suppose I was being hard headed and wanted to use what I had.. :yes:

Ummm, for a stock style drive shaft (single u joint on each end) that angle is completely wrong and I'm surprised you have no vibrations. The pinion should run parallel to the transfer case output. If you run a double cardan CV style drive shaft (like the front drive shaft), that angle would be correct. Not sure I understand...the truck is 2WD. Standard drive shaft with the U-joint on each end. In the pictures the drive shaft was straight and had no vibrations. The guy who did the welding stated he felt the pinion end would 'dip' slightly under acceleration and recommended it be raised by 1 inch, which I agreed with (after putting the truck on stands and running it). Still no vibrations, but I've yet to drive it on the freeway.