Jerry

Thanks Jeff :thumbsup:

Couple of little tech question please guys :wrench: I'm just about to buy a new radiator to replace the colander model I currently have. Planning to go to the local autoparts/NAPA/whatever and get a standard replacement. Are there any problems I might run into? Should I be looking at a specific type/brand of radiator? Are there any cooling upgrade options I should do while I'm elbow deep in grease under the hood? I do alot of slow speed logging trails so more cooling would be nice. I'm running the mechanical fan and an electric one on the other side plus a tranny cooler. Thanks in advance for your input :thumbsup: edit: it's for the renix 4.0L btw

Lillooet Lake, sure is purdy up there!

Went out for a pint of milk and came back with this project :doh:

Installed aux batt cable for camper, serviced the trans & fitted wheel spacers :wrench:

Thankin'yousirkindly,that'lldonicely :cheers:

Last wheeling trip I lost the rubber piece from my RHR bump stop. Anyone know where I can get some new ones? Thanks in advance :wrench:

Yup, really Maybe the manual box helps to the tune of 5mpg :dunno:

+1 :thumbsup: As for the 2.8L being gutless though. The 2.8L is always getting beat on! I have to jump in and defend the poor thing! :fs1: My blue one there in the pic has spent the last few years regulary hauling a fully loaded +1000lb camper up and down BC's mountains. It hasn't complained once! It just faultlessly got on with the job. Compared it side by side with the 4.0L and yes it may feel a little underpowered but it has a 1200cc disadvantage and carbs. It's got 160k miles on it, still runs like a sewing machine and uses no oil which is more than I can say for my 4.0L. Gas mileage is no better than a 4.0L so yes(!) if you have a choice get a 4.0L. But if you don't have a choice don't be put off if the truck you're looking at has the 2.8L V6 :thumbsup:

FM transmitter + digital player? Only need a stock radio then. Works for me. Not perfect but a good/cheap solution. http://mp3youtubeconvert.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/wpid-41UyfDhhDXL.jpg

This is a handy little app if you have an android phone. Just plug in the numbers every time you fuel up :thumbsup: https://market.android.com/details?id=ch.simonmorgenthaler.fuellog&feature=search_result Says I'm getting 20.4mpg

It's one of those extra wide panoramic pics no?

Congratulations on getting your first bike! :cheers: You've just entered a whole great big new world of fun! :thumbsup: :wrench:

Thanks for all the input guys :wrench: So it's probably just a "They all do that sir" kind of noise. Good to know my engine isn't about to explode! CC does it again :thumbsup:

Anything on this subject is going to be strictly guessing! :thumbsup: I may have but I don't think the noise would travel down inside the engine? Exhaust leaks are fairly easy to detect. Good to know I'm not alone :D It's partly why I was asking about "Common engine noises", I have heard another 4.0L making a similar noise but it wasn't as loud. I've also listened to other 4.0L's that just purr quietly with very little mechanical noise and definitely no clattering! Anyone else have the same?

I've been trying to figure out why my motor is making a mild knocking noise :hmm: Are there a set of common noises that the 4.0L makes? Wondering if the forum can help me work out what it is? :bowdown: I'll do my best to describe it! The noise was present when I bought it over 10,000 miles ago. It hasn't changed in all that time and I've driven it pretty hard. The sound only appears once the engine is warm. To me it sounds like slightly worn cam noise but it can't be the cam(?) because the noise is NOT an even knocknockknock it's more like a variable clattering sound. The oil pressure is good so it's not a bearing. Weirdly it gets noisier when I put fresh oil in! Noises are usually masked with fresh lube! I've stethescoped it all over and it's loudest from the bottom end of the engine through the oilpan. It starts fine, idles fine, runs fine, does what it's supposed to. One of my lifters has started ticking intermittently so I'm wondering if it could be lifter related but it's not the "clack" sound I associate with collapsing lifters. What else in a 4.0L can make a soft offbeat knocking noise but not cause any problems? Timing chain? output shaft? Oil pump? I'm not a mechanical numpty but I can't figure this out so it's over to CC wisdom

My Haynes manual seems to think I can extract the lifters without removing the head. Searching here I couldn't find the answer and random googling on the subject suggests no you can't get at them without removing the head. Please can anyone advise me as to who is correct? Thanks :wrench: Edit: just found this quote "You can replace lifters in the 2.5 without pulling the head :). Don't know why they didn't make provisions for that on the 4.0 but oh well." Can I assume that's a "No" then? :cheers:

When searching M2 - try 'import camper', otherwise you'll find slide-ins that are too wide for the MJ. :thumbsup: And the 4.0L MJ is known for good fuel economy? :yes: Seriously tho, yes it does hurt fuel economy hauling the camper but I've found it's not too bad and the benefits outweigh the extra fuel use :cheers:

Awesome! So will you be leaving the wedding in your MJ? :brows:

Not really noticed a big difference in MPG, it does use some extra but it's not an issue. Light wheeling? No problem! I'm continually impressed with how the MJ copes. I like to challenge it when we head out into the boonies :brows: I carry winching gear but haven't had to use it yet. I think the extra weight may even help climbing the rougher trails, just take it slow, steady and careful. Disadvantages: You can't be in a hurry. Take care on the highway in fast corners due to the the possibility of a roll over (same with any high sided vehicle). You drive careful anyways though don't you? ;) A few minor mods are required - Airsprings or extra leaves req'd unless you have a metric Ton package, Tranny cooler if you have an auto and good tires. Advantages: Being able to travel randomly without schedules cos you can stop any place anytime. Fridge full of cold beer. A comfy bed. Happy to answer any questions :thumbsup:

Picked up this new toy/project last weekend, '82 Suzuki GS1100. Needs work :wrench:

Experience . . . . . very very good. My MJ is unstoppable with a camper in the back :thumbsup: Any specific questions?

Staying on the workshop theme, this one's been going around the net for a while. Still makes me laugh when I read it again as I've experienced most of them! If you own a Comanche then you probably have too :D Hammer: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. Mechanic's Knife: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing convertible tops or tonneau covers. Electric Hand Drill: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling rollbar mounting holes in the floor of a sports car just above the brake line that goes to the rear axle. Hacksaw: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. Vise-Grips: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. Oxyacetelene Torch: Used almost entirely for lighting those stale garage cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket drawer (What wife would think to look in there?) because you can never remember to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX at Fort Campbell Zippo Lighter: See oxyacetelene torch. Whitworth Sockets: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding six-month old Salems from the sort of person who would throw them away for no good reason. Drill Press: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against the Rolling Stones poster over the bench grinder. Wire Wheel: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "Django Reinhardt". Hydraulic Floor Jack: Used for lowering a Mustang to the ground after you have installed a set of Ford Motorsports lowered road springs, trappng the jack handle firmly under the front air dam. Eight-Foot Long Douglas Fir 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack. Tweezers: A tool for removing wood splinters. Phone: Tool for calling your neighbor Chris to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. Snap-On Gasket Scraper: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. E-Z Out Bolt and Stud Extractor: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. Timing Light: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup on crankshaft pulleys. Two-Ton Hydraulic Engine Hoist: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have forgotten to disconnect. Craftsman 1/2 x 16-inch Screwdriver: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. Battery Electrolyte Tester: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. Aviation Metal Snips: See Hacksaw. Trouble Light: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. Phillips Screwdriver: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads. Air Compressor: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty suspension bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, and rounds them off. Grease Gun: A messy tool for checking to see if your zerk fittings are still plugged with rust

Where? Link? :thumbsup:

:wrench: