streetjeep2.5

Listing ended October, 2010 :mad:

I took mine apart and attached the motor side of the unit to the harness plug in. I disconnected the battery and turned the ignition switch on. I connected the battery cable and watched, but the motor shaft inside the unit did not turn at all. I pressed the part that causes the little set of points in there to connect. Still no motor movement. Previous to putting the one on I now have, the motor in the old one worked but the rest of it didn't. But, I threw it away! :fs1: So, I am ASSuming, by this test, the motor in this one is not working? The shaft of the motor turns easily, but has about 1/8 inch end play.

Any way to bench test the electric motor to see if it's working?

I initially set my Renix 2.5 to the timing mark also, and had it 180 off. So, unhook coil to dist wire just in case. Take spark plug out of #1 cyl. Put finger over plug hole and have someone do short bursts of turning it over until air from #1 tries to blow your finger off the hole. I then turned my crank pulley to get the timing mark at 10 degrees before top dead center, and turned the oil pump until I had the rotor dead center at #1 on dist cap. Before this wouldn't even try to start. After, fired right up!

OOUUUCCCHHHH!!!! How fast was the guy going to do that much damage???

Flathead V8?? I love the sound of a flathead! Worked at a ford dealership from 67-68 then got drafted and went back to work there from 70 to 79. Service manager had a 46 ford convert with a flathead with offenhauser heads and dual carbs. OHHHHH! Such a sweet sound! I think better than any overhead V8!

I have a 2.5 with single in, dual out the quietest Flowmaster available in 2004 with tail pipes coming straight back to under the bumper with turned down chrome exhaust tips. The turned down adds deepness to the sound. At idle sounds not like a 4 popper, but definitely not a v8. When driving, hardly any sound, except in the cab! Think with a 4.0 same setup would sound decent.

Mines 87 2.5 4x2 is a DD. Usually at least 2 times a week I drive 50 or more round trip. Never a hick-up until my engine broke a ring in #3, which I am pretty sure was caused by the header from Clifford I put on. The one tube was only about 1/2 and inch away from where the head gasket was at #3, and the ring broke and hurt my cyl wall on that side, and the head gasket was black right there, and the head bolt was covered with baked on gunk. I think being in that confined high heat area and that close ... Anyway, stock exhaust manifold. Header is in the scrap iron. Was a problem anyway. It touched the block at the pan boss and I had to pound it in to clear and Clifford took it back and tried to reshape it but that didn't work, and said since they already "modified" it at my request, it was not under warranty. Never did accept responsibility for having made it wrong in the first place. I will never buy from them again.

In 1965 rode in a 64 GTO and we had it doing about 130 we think on factory bias ply tires. :nuts: The speedometer was pegged and still accelerated. Slowed to 70 when approaching a bridge :clapping: and the right front tire blew out. :ack: Have NEVER wanted to go that fast again! :shake:

OHHHHHH! Ghia's! Always wanted one! Speaking of VW's, a guy I graduated with went to work for the VW/Porsche dealership in town. In the 1970's he built a VW with every trick you could think of, and with a jazz of the throttle would hit 8 grand and back to a 1.5 grand idle in about a second! Wheelied in three gears! Ate 327's, 396's, and even a few 440's for breakfast! What a screamer! Little white VW gutted of all unnecessary weight with flames on the side, cheater slicks on the back, and narrow parelli's on the front, sitting about two inches lower in the front! Wicked! Those weber downdrafts coming up through the "bonnet" in the back were really cool looking! If unsure, consider hp to weight ratio! 250 hp in a 4 cyl was like 600 in a normal sized Muscle car of that era!

LOVED the bugs! We had a 66 back in 1971 when first married! They were fun to drive. except on a windy day on a two lane road and a semi went by the other way. I think it would actually move a few inches to the right!

Yea, way to go! I quit in cub scouts. My dad had me learning the accordion 'cuz he had dreams of me being on Lawrence Welk (some of you young guys may need to google him after saying "whose he?") but I hated it as said I wasn't gonna play any more and he said "if you quit no more cub scouts"! That was it.

Amazing the stuff we came up with in the 60's! Wasn't my first build, but I had a 50 chevy 2 door coupe that was repainted a turquoise color, put a floor shift in it, put masking tape diagonal racing stripes on it, split the exhaust so had duals coming out the back, and chained the hood shut so people would think I had a screamer! :nuts: But, was a stock 216 that had the things on the bottom of the rod caps to dip oil out of the pan!

WAAAAYYYY back in 1966 bought a 57 chevy wagon and started building. After a nice green paint job with two black racing stripes over it and a somewhat built 327 in it my brother and I won D Class and Eliminator Cheater Stock at the Port Orford Oregon Drag strip. But the front end was loosing alignment all the time. Found out the frame had been bent. The 57 was replaced by a 55 two door base station wagon (I was a surfer; needed room for my board!). The 327 got balanced and blueprinted and guaranteed to 10,000 rpm. Had 525 HP, a GTO 4 speed, Steel/Fiber clutch system, and 4:56 posi rear with cheater slicks. Outside looked ugly, but drive train .... SCARY!!! :thumbsup:

We are glad to have you aboard! Our only concern was with changing to a 4x4 and probably wanting to do some wheeling, is the 4.0 has more hp and torque than a 4.3. But, I have to admit, the idea of opening a hood and seeing a "v" engine (not a 2.8!!!) under the hood is fun! My hope is to gather the parts needed to do a GM Small Block V8, preferably a 327. And, I want it to look like this! :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :jump: :jump: :banana: :banana: :cheers: :cheers: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1771&start=15

Are we right in that it's a 2.5 right now? Mine's an 87 4x2 short box also, and a 2.5 4 speed. If it's a 4.0, you could easily swap in a later (91-95) MPI 4.0 with 190 hp. If 2.5, still much easier to put in a 4.0 than a 4.3. Hey, guys, did all 87's have the engine bay modified for the 4.0, or was it a production date thing?

I bet most the guys were in a "tongue in cheek" way saying by the time you buy all the adaptation things to put a 4.3 in, which will involve wiring, drive shaft shortening/lengthening, whatever transmission/transfer case changing might happen, radiator probably needing changed, you might be even up or less expensive swapping a 4.0 and all the stuff with it from an XJ or MJ. You will need the computer, etc from the GM and wire it in. :waving: I, too, have contemplated a 4.3 in the place of my 2.5, but even with keeping it a 4x2, it appears the cost to do it right would be more than a 4.0 swap from another XJ/MJ And, if you leave the 4.3 stock, the 4.3 of that year did put out less hp than the 4.0. Wiki says, depending on what it came out of, only 140 to 160 hp, while a 4.0 from 91 up was in the 180 to 190 range. The 4.3 didn't get into the 190 hp range until much later than 1989. Even the old Renix 4.0 was about 175 hp. Plus an inline engine provides more low end torque than a V- engine. If I did a 4.3, I would only do so because aftermarket performance stuff is available to jump it up 50 or so hp kinda easy. Not as easy with a 4.0. So, please don't take it wrongly. Just a bunch of guys saying "goin' 6 cyl? Keep her Jeep! Better engine and more hp! Wanna do more? Well, if you are going GM, why a 4.3? Go with a hi-performance 350 and really have a stomper!!!" :drool: 'Course, there is overheating issues sometimes with that swap! Anyway, have fun! Hey, do a build thread for us in case we want to do the same!

How true. But, thanks, big massive help!

Thanks! Mine is different on the rear of the valve cover. It goes into the bottom fitting on the TB, and the hose out of the top of the vacuum port on the manifold goes to the bottom front of the vacuum block nearest the rocker cover. That is the way the molded vacuum lines are made to go on mine. :hmm:

Only one more piece of help needed. The two vacuum lines to the TAC sensor in the cover of the TB, the top one goes EXACTLY where, and the bottom one goes EXACTLY where? The diagrams show them side by side, not top and bottom. :fs1: Thanks for all the help, guys!

Hey, jimoshel! Thanks! Gave me enough to figure it out. That's whats so good about CC!

Yea, think so. See when I get home. Bunches of thanks!

One head bolt, and I forget which, is supposed to be torqued less than the rest. I think it's a corner one. Did that happen? Also, first time the head off? If not, they say you should not loosen and torque again the head bolts more than once. If this is a second time, you may have a weak head bolt there. I should be following that advice also, but I used my head bolts a second time. We will see.

I really feel those are unkind and unnecessary remarks and not fitting from a member of CC or any group dedicated to helping others with their hobby. I feel they would of been better left unsaid. Jim Agreed. :thumbsup: Many of you on here are younger, so don't come down so hard on a man that is 76 and is finding himself tired of wrenching on them. :thwak: I bet you will be too when the years are added up on your body. Mind wants to, but body often doesn't let you, and you got to be realistic. I will do everything I can to keep my MJ. ;) I have been wrenching on all my vehicles since I was 16. The only things I won't do to it is rebuild the transmission, engine, or rear differential. Take them out, tear them apart, yes, but not do the actual rebuilding. I have before, but they last a lot longer if professionally done. Plus, don't have the tools needed, and not going to get them. And now that I am 62 I do find myself wishing I could take it somewhere and get most things fixed. But, I can't afford it. So cut us old geezers some slack, K!!! :cheers:

Now that is just harsh. I am not on crack and I am not dreaming, my 87 renix MJ has been an amazingly reliable vehicle. Never has it left me stranded and never has it failed to start in it's 300,000+ miles. I'm not even close to being considered a mechanic, I just do it's general maintenance and it just keeps on trucking 100%. :D Now I have nothing against Ford, how could I? They revolutionized the auto industry. Just never owned one though because my renix MJ has never given me a reason to own another vehicle. Sorry, I just had to join the forums to defend my beloved Comanche. :cry: Agree with you. My 347,000 mile Renix TB received it's first rebuild last week, not because it was having a problem, but only because it was off and I wanted to do it while off. It may not be as efficient and hp causing as the later system, but reliable? Oh, yea! But new and rebuild parts for it are getting few and far in between. Only kit I found for the TB was through O'Reilly for about 50 smackers. Get one before they are obsolete! Can only find used Idle Motors, and found a Position Sensor and bought it, "just in case."