reson46

Do not wait for the insurance company to get back to you. Call at minimum once a day. It doesn't take long for them to get all the accident information they need when they choose to. They would be more than happy to sit around and do nothing hoping this all goes away without them paying out a claim. Willy

Replaced the rear springs. I noticed when I did the spring over the driver side was lower than the passenger side. Seemed like it had become quite a bit worse lately. There was a very noticeable lean. The leaf packs even seemed to be noticeably different from side to side. Maybe somebody replaced one set at some point. :hmm: Picked up a matching set of used springs and replaced both sides. I thought I may have to start stacking leaves when I pulled the sagging driver spring and compared it to the used pack. Unloaded the sagging driver spring had more arch than what I was replacing it with. :hmm: Old sagging spring on the right. Once installed with weight on it the replacement spring held up much better than the old sagging spring. Now both sides are within 1/4" of each other. :clapping: Willy

Those are a PITA. They seem like a good idea at first, but when the transmission is wobbling around on top of one of those there will plenty of unkind words. Get one of these. It makes it much easier. Willy

That will be a long wait, if ever. You need to call them and make a claim. Do you have the insurance information for both the box truck and the Ford? Unless the guy in the Ford was ticketed, his insurance company will probably try to pass the fault off to the box truck. Willy

Why didn't you removed the sway bar drop brackets instead of shorten the end links? Willy

It doesn't matter if there were any witnesses. The officer gave him the ticket so he was at fault. Make a claim on his insurance. There are too many things that could go wrong if you don't. Willy

Did they ticket the guy in the Ford? Willy

If you wheel stay away from these aluminum tie rods. I am almost certain that they are made of some material that is magically super magnetically attracted to rocks - and they almost seem to bend at the site of a rock. I am yet to see a straight one that sees anything more than forest service roads. Willy

Willy, How did your Atlas instal come out in your XJ? How flat did you clock it, and how happy are you with the amount of droop you get out of your ft driveshaft? I had mocked up a flipped D300 a while back, and you end up with a similar ft shaft length to what the Atlas will give me. Using a stock style double cardan joint (Grand Waggy shaft was a perfect fit), with the D300 clocked flat, the driveshaft was my droop limiting factor. Way before the RS9009 length shocks topped out. I figure I'll split the difference with the Atlas, and not go completely flat. I can modify the double cardan to get a few more degree's, but ultimately, I think I'll need a limiting strap on that side, unless I want to run a modified Toyota CV joint, or similar. What did you do, and how much did you cut the floor to fit your Atlas. Thanks Jimmy. I didn't have any problems with my Atlas install. But, I didn't clock it completely flat. I clocked it as far as I could without interfering with the floor. Even like this it still didn't hang as low as the stock NP 231. I never had any problems with the front driveshaft. The Atlas only shortens it a couple of inches compared to an NP 231. Mine's behind an AW4 too, so if you have a manual that may shorten your front shaft more than mine. If you are still building the drivetrain I would definitely recommend you use the doubler with the Atlas since you have it. Especially with the 5.0 Atlas. More gear choices are never bad. I have the 4.3 Atlas and there are occasions when I would like both lower and higher gearing. I built my wife's MJ with a doubler and it is very nice. I'm also building a Scout with a doubler and a 4.3 Atlas. I think that will give me just about all the gear choices I could want - 2.7, 4.3, and 11.7. Willy

Did you remove the roof? All I see are sun visors. :rotf: Willy

Our shirts came today. That was quick. I wasn't expecting them until at least tomorrow considering we are about as far away from you as possible. Thanks Brent! Willy P.S. Seriously, a volcano in Florida? That has to be an oxymoron. :yes:

That is such a bad idea for so many reasons. Just go to the junkyard and pull the carrier out of a 4.10 D30. They are not that hard to find. The ring gear is subjected to tremendous forces. Adding longer bolts and another surface for it to slip on is not a good idea. :doh: Admittedly it's not going in a Mustang. It would have a much better chance of surviving if it was. I can't see that lasting long with 35s and much wheeling. Willy

Even if somebody makes a spacer, I wouldn't use one. Getting the proper carrier is a much better idea. :thumbsup: Willy

Pretty cool, but the passenger is a moron who is going to lose their fingers, especially riding with him. :shake: Willy

Very cool truck and nice work. You planning on using the doubler with the Atlas? Willy

I guarantee that wouldn't flip it. There would be an awesome trail of transfer case and maybe transmission bits to follow. :clapping: Willy Can I ask why not with as long as the front DS is and with the weight of a YJ behind the T-case??? I know there would be an awesome trail of t-case bits, but with highway speeds think it could have been a fun drive :clapping: For it to catapult like that the transfer case would need to stay intact. The aluminum front output would shatter with that much force at highway speeds. I could foresee the driveshaft becoming a blunt spear progressing through the floor pan after it destroys the transfer case and inflicting some major injuries to any possible rear seat occupants. This was also attempted on Mythbusters. It wasn't the exact same scenario as they used a full size '70s sedan and impaled the front of the rear driveshaft in a pothole at highway speeds. But, it pretty much ended up with the driveshaft coming up through the floor and shooting into the trunk. It did result in some awesome damage. :thumbsup: Willy

Do you have any more details about this process? Curiosity has me wondering how they could over complicate an oil change. :hmm: Willy

I guarantee that wouldn't flip it. There would be an awesome trail of transfer case and maybe transmission bits to follow. :clapping: Willy

Here are a few more I've bookmarked over the years that may be helpful. Summit Machine Sniper Fabworks Tanner 4WD DIY 4X Willy

What headers are those? Willy

I wouldn't even worry about it with 33s. I would be concerned with 35+ and hard wheeling, but at that point spares and broken parts needs to be considered with any light duty axle. Willy

If you have an 8.8 with disc brakes the axle and wheel will not depart the vehicle if you break a shaft. I wouldn't recommend driving very far on it, but that goes for any axle with a broken shaft. C-clips are no reason not to use an 8.8 if it has disc brakes. C-clip eliminators are nice, but it is not like it is mandatory to use this axle. Willy

Very cool. Nothing wrong with big butts. More pics please. :thumbsup: Willy

This sounds like what you are looking for. Lots of build pics. One pic almost looks like you from the right angle. :yes: Willy

Have you tried crawling under it and looking for what is loose? There isn't much in that area that moves around and if it is banging on something it should be pretty obvious. Willy